Duet3D Logo Duet3D
    • Tags
    • Documentation
    • Order
    • Register
    • Login
    1. Home
    2. GeckoBox3D
    • Profile
    • Following 0
    • Followers 0
    • Topics 12
    • Posts 58
    • Best 2
    • Controversial 0
    • Groups 0

    GeckoBox3D

    @GeckoBox3D

    3
    Reputation
    4
    Profile views
    58
    Posts
    0
    Followers
    0
    Following
    Joined Last Online

    GeckoBox3D Unfollow Follow

    Best posts made by GeckoBox3D

    • Tweaking for perfect jerk/accel/pressure advance blob removal.

      So, my issue started when I switched from a direct extruder (no gearing) to the E3D titan (3:1 gearing). At the end of each move, most notably on corners, a small blob would be made. Today I tried to eradicate this once and for all! (not an entire failure….). In the past, I've used various amounts of coast/wipe/retract settings to tweak this, as the blobs usually precede a retraction. This doesn't work as not all are made at a retraction though, some are actually made when the nozzle does a travel move (eg, from perimeter to infill). Coasting/wiping/extra distance on retract also has the downsides of messing with the layer alignment, as some parts of the layer would be partly underextruded (coast) or partly overextruded where I have upped extra distance after retraction to compensate. You can mess with these settings for YEARS and never get the perfect balance, there is always a compromise.... In the end, I'd rather find an area to hide retraction blobs, and keep good layer alignment. Add to this that the blobs only really show on 300 micron layers, I assume due to the pressure increases associated, then coasting / retract settings become tedious as you have to have different settings for each layer height as 1mm of coast will leave a lot of gaps on 100 micron layers.

      So, with the idea that it was mostly due to slow travel moves, which may also be the reason for blobs on retract, I messed around with the settings....

      Some background! My settings are usually....

      I mostly print at 40 mm/s, 100mm/s travel moves. Cartesian machine, Bed moves in Y (weighs around 1.2kg).
      M566 X600 Y400 Z8 E300 ; Jerk (mm/min)
      M203 X10000 Y6000 Z300 E300 ; maximum speeds (mm/min)
      M201 X3000 Y3000 Z100 E250 ; accelerations (mm/s^2)

      First off, I upped XY jerk, then E jerk, then Z jerk one at a time, to high amounts with no retractions on the outer perimeter. No difference at all!
      Next up was a similar experiment with accel, again nothing. Next I set it back to originals and went for the pressure advance config, This worked well actually and brought down blobbing alot, but had its own drawbacks. In fact, it gave similar results to coast/wipe/retract tweaking where the section just after pressure advance took place would be slightly underextruded. However, it is nowhere near as bad and can be set similarly for all layer heights (I assume, I've not tried it yet...). So perhaps this is the compromise I can live with to remove blobbing??

      My next tests will be to have a lot more retractions, so that moving from perimeter to infill is not just a travel move but also a retract and then see if various jerk/acceleration settings affect the presence of blobs. So far, more E jerk has not.... What does everyone else do? Pressure advance seems like the best road to go down, But I can't help thinking its a work around to an underlying issue.

      posted in Tuning and tweaking
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D
    • RE: Tweaking for perfect jerk/accel/pressure advance blob removal.

      Sorry, I'll try to be more clear.

      These cubes all have blobs created by retraction. I know this as I've set retraction to take place when it moves from perimeter to infill. However, If I turn this retraction off a blob is still created by the travel move. Initially I thought it was solely a retraction issue.

      What confuses me is, why does having retraction have such little effect on the blobs? If this was solely a retraction issue, then surely even bad retraction settings should have an effect.

      Temperature may have some affect on blob size, but I doubt it will remove the issue entirely. I will however do some tests just so it is another removed variable.

      posted in Tuning and tweaking
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D

    Latest posts made by GeckoBox3D

    • RE: Print cancels at the start of a new print

      @stealthy_tt

      195mm^2

      posted in General Discussion
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D
    • RE: Print cancels at the start of a new print

      0_1525971624593_Untitled.png

      M122 just tells me that a file was selected for printing. nothing else happens.

      using USB and S3D yields this:

      SENT: M122
      READ: === Diagnostics ===
      READ: Used output buffers: 5 of 32 (11 max)
      READ: === Platform ===
      READ: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet version 1.21 running on Duet WiFi 1.0 or 1.01
      READ: Board ID: 08DAM-999TL-MQ4S8-6JTDJ-3SJ6N-16BBW
      READ: Static ram used: 16152
      READ: Dynamic ram used: 100504
      READ: Recycled dynamic ram: 2128
      READ: Stack ram used: 3576 current, 6632 maximum
      READ: Never used ram: 5656
      READ: Last reset 55:12:08 ago, cause: power up
      READ: Last software reset at 2018-04-22 18:17, reason: User, spinning module GCodes, available RAM 5784 bytes (slot 0)
      READ: Software reset code 0x0003 HFSR 0x00000000, CFSR 0x00000000, ICSR 0x0441f000, BFAR 0xe000ed38, SP 0xffffffff
      READ: Error status: 8
      READ: Free file entries: 10
      READ: SD card 0 detected, interface speed: 20.0MBytes/sec
      READ: SD card longest block write time: 0.0ms
      READ: MCU temperature: min 35.6, current 35.8, max 36.7
      READ: Supply voltage: min 11.9, current 12.0, max 12.2, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0
      READ: Driver 0: standstill, SG min/max not available
      READ: Driver 1: standstill, SG min/max not available
      READ: Driver 2: standstill, SG min/max not available
      READ: Driver 3: standstill, SG min/max not available
      READ: Driver 4: standstill, SG min/max not available
      READ: Date/time: 2018-05-10 18:04:05
      READ: Slowest main loop (seconds): 0.179110; fastest: 0.000112
      READ: === Move ===
      READ: MaxReps: 0, StepErrors: 0, LaErrors: 0, FreeDm: 240, MinFreeDm 240, MaxWait: 0ms, Underruns: 0, 0
      READ: Scheduled moves: 0, completed moves: 0
      READ: Bed compensation in use: none
      READ: Bed probe heights: 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
      READ: === Heat ===
      READ: Bed heaters = 0 -1 -1 -1, chamberHeaters = -1 -1
      READ: Heater 0 is on, I-accum = 0.0
      READ: Heater 1 is on, I-accum = 0.4
      READ: === GCodes ===
      READ: Segments left: 0
      READ: Stack records: 1 allocated, 0 in use
      READ: Movement lock held by null
      READ: http is idle in state(s) 0
      READ: telnet is idle in state(s) 0
      READ: file is idle in state(s) 0
      READ: serial is ready with "M122" in state(s) 0
      READ: aux is idle in state(s) 0
      READ: daemon is idle in state(s) 0
      READ: queue is idle in state(s) 0
      READ: autopause is idle in state(s) 0
      READ: Code queue is empty.
      READ: === Network ===
      READ: Responder states: HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) FTP(0) Telnet(0) Telnet(0)
      READ: HTTP sessions: 2 of 8
      READ: - WiFi -
      READ: Network state is running
      READ: WiFi module is connected to access point
      READ: Failed messages: pending 0, notready 0, noresp 0
      READ: WiFi firmware version 1.21
      READ: WiFi MAC address 5c:cf:7f:2c:27:94
      READ: WiFi Vcc 3.38, reset reason Turned on by main processor
      READ: WiFi flash size 4194304, free heap 15992
      READ: WiFi IP address 192.168.1.147
      READ: WiFi signal strength -63dBm, reconnections 0, sleep mode modem
      READ: Socket states: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
      READ: === Expansion ===

      posted in General Discussion
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D
    • Print cancels at the start of a new print

      For some reason I've come across a weird error after installing the new firmware.

      My prints often cancel themselves before they have even started, weirdly though, this only happens on about half of the prints and is more likely to happen after I've already done a print, but it has also done it on the first print.

      my routine: I set temps manually, slice file and then upload it to the web interface. The homing process then starts and the print will cancel after the X axis homes and then it will turn the heaters off etc, just like ending a print. My starting script in the slic3r is just G28.

      my Homeall file:
      M84 E0:1 ; Extruder motor off
      G91 ; Relative positioning
      ;G1 Z5 F6000 S2 ; Lift Z
      G1 Y-195 F1800 S1
      G1 X-195 F1800 S1 ; Move towards X and Y axis endstops (first pass)
      G1 X5 Y5 F6000 ; Go back a few mm
      G1 X-195 Y-195 F360 S1 ; Move slowly to axis endstops once more (second pass)

      G1 Z-200 S1 F100 ; move Z down until the switch triggers
      G1 Z20 S1 F100 ; Move Z up 20mm
      G92 Z0.10 ; tell the firmware that we are at Z=0.10mm
      G90 ; absolute mode

      My homeX file:
      G91
      G1 Z5 F6000 S2
      G90
      G91
      G1 X5 F6000
      G90
      G1 X-250 F360 S1
      G91
      G1 Z-5 F6000 S2
      G90

      Any help appreciated.. I have checked the forums and this is a head scratcher

      posted in General Discussion
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D
    • Light up macro buttons

      I'm looking to add some macro buttons to the printer. I know how to set it up (momentary button or endstop which triggers a macro) but the buttons also have an LED ring.

      What would be the best way to wire this up to light up with the button press? They have 4 leads coming out of the button, two for the button itself and 2 for the LED.

      posted in General Discussion
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D
    • RE: Black printbite and IR Sensor - very inconsistent heights?

      @dc42:

      I'll ask Jason again for a sample of matt black PrintBite to test the IR sensor with.

      Any update on this? I've been waiting to see someone's results for a while as my old gridded printbite gives horrendous IR probe results

      posted in IR Height Sensor
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D
    • RE: 3D Printer with Servo and screws

      @Urban:

      Barracuda72: The membership is free but controlled by linkedIn. Eventually I will host it myself, but you get a lot of contacts on linkedIn.
      GeckoBox3D: I will do the big radius bends with step bending, 4 deg each step. This is not perfekt, but hopefully good enough for a demonstrator. The powder painting will be structured, so this will hide some of it.

      I will stick to the standard extruders etc for now because it is to much work designing and testing them for now. The big cost is the servos and screws. Then it depends on if you want to compare to a Prusa or a Stratasys, 1000€ or 50 000€.

      I used fusion360 for sheetmetal, and it has worked better than expected. Do you have any pictures of your design?

      You're quite right about the budget, but anything over £3000 has to be quite spectacular in my opinion. The Ultimaker 3, Robo R2, BCN3D sigma or Raise3D N2 are all around the £3'000 mark and are very capable printers. If you want to go more expensive then this, then you need a novel approach or high reliability, or more likely both. Your servos and ball screws will only give incremental improvements to reliability where as a heated chamber and well set printing profiles will go much further.

      posted in My Duet controlled machine
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D
    • RE: 3D Printer with Servo and screws

      Interesting project… I'm currently undertaking a very similar project and the sheet metal has become more complicated then initially thought.

      For example, the large radius bends on the corner of your machine are difficult to get manufactured. Most benders do not have the tooling to do larger radiuses and will charge extra for tooling. Most benders will also not handle the metal well, and you'll have extra costs for clean up and finishing.

      If you want to go down the sheet metal route and still keep costs low then I highly suggest getting different extruders, hotends and nozzles as this will take up a sizeable chunk of your budget. Many printer manufacturers make their own proprietary systems for this exact reason (as well as creating a market for spare parts).

      posted in My Duet controlled machine
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D
    • RE: I Fried my duet, and I have no idea how

      Yes, as said I checked all my connections and wiring. This printer is for a client and so all wiring has been checked, checked and triple checked.

      The 24v short happened when I was installing some 5050 LED tape. The end of the tape was exposed where the tape was cut and touched the bench whilst I was testing them. Complete oversight for me, and I've now insulated the ends of all my leds. The printer immediately turned off to only find that the 3.3v line has fried. According to their own guide, this should be next to impossible to do so I'm fairly certain something else is wrong that shouldn't be. This sort of fault should only happen if you accidentally load 12/24v into the z probe or similar outputs and I don't even have a z probe

      posted in General Discussion
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D
    • RE: I Fried my duet, and I have no idea how

      The LEDs were not routed with any thermistors, they were wired direct to power supply just to illuminate the whole printer. Hence why I'm surprised that this has caused the board to blow. There were no nearby components and none of the wires are damaged (I have checked today) I thought it was extremely difficult for a simple short at the power supply to cause this? This leads me to believe a possible fault with the boards protection features

      posted in General Discussion
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D
    • RE: I Fried my duet, and I have no idea how

      As far as I can see, it is V1.02, according to the writing in the center of the board. It is the duet ethernet version. The board blew around 6'o clock yesterday though and the self resetting fuses (if that was the problem) don't appear to have kicked in.

      I have no means of applying 3.3v to the board unfortunately to see if that helps. I know the vin line is working, as the fans turn on still and the blue vin led still works, along with the red 5v led when I plug in USB.

      I'm surprised to see that such a short has caused this to the board though. According to the 'How to destroy a duet' guide, its quite hard to achieve this, hence why I started the topic. Could one of the protection methods built in to the board be faulty? I would be willing to send this back to you guys to see what you think

      posted in General Discussion
      GeckoBox3Dundefined
      GeckoBox3D