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    Topics created by imadunatic

    • imadunaticundefined

      Solved Compatible Layer Heights

      Tuning and tweaking
      • • • imadunatic
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      deckingmanundefined

      @imadunatic Yes forget that calculator - something very weird going on with the second row of figures (1 decimal place). The other thing I hate about it is that it mentions "pitch", rather than "lead". For a single start thread, that's OK but if you had a 2 start 8mm x 2mm pitch screw, the lead would be 4mm and that's the value that you would have to use rather than the pitch.

      Most people don't know the difference between pitch and lead but it's really, really important. You might find this video that I made some time back interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_0xdrKUYVU

    • imadunaticundefined

      Duet 2 Wifi Active or Passive Cooling

      Duet Hardware and wiring
      • cooling • • imadunatic
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      Phaedruxundefined

      @imadunatic said in Duet 2 Wifi Active or Passive Cooling:

      did you wire yours in parallel and to the one spare PWM controlled fan connection?

      Yes that's right. Wired in parallel and controlled by temp.

    • imadunaticundefined

      400x400x800 D-bot Problem Child

      My Duet controlled machine
      • d-bot troubleshooting • • imadunatic
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      imadunaticundefined

      It's good to know that it's certainly possible to get this printing in this configuration given that there are larger versions out in the wild printing successfully!

      I think those massive corner blocks might actually be contributing to the z possible skipping or jumping since it adds even more weight to an already heavy Z, and since they're only kitty corner from each other, it adds to instability.

      Based on everyone's thoughts, this is my plan of attack:

      Update printed parts with the newer mod versions that appear much stronger. Specifically the 3 wheel carriages. Thinking of printing in PETG, but open to thoughts on this as well.

      For the Open builds steel gantry plates that ride on the verticals, I kind of feel like they're likely stronger than 3D printed because they're steel, but honestly, it seems like all modern D-bots and variants use the 3 wheel adjustable printed version, and I'm thinking there is a reason for that. Anyone have experience with that? Otherwise, I'm considering replacing the steel gantry plates with the 3D printed versions, or design a 3D printed plate to support the other end of the axles at least

      Convert to a 3 ball screw configuration with a single z motor drive like Phaedrux shared in his build.

      Rather than cut the Z down, I'm considering just moving the rails up and bracing them roughly in the middle of the legs for a shorter but hopefully more robust 400mm cube but still the same height so it can sit on the floor comfortably. Still on the fence about this, since I now think it's possible to get this printing well even at this height with the proper bracing

      Add aluminum braces at key corners with all of the screws

      Properly tension the belts, they are literally flapping the breeze they're so loose. This might actually be the main cause of the issues with failed prints since I'm positive I could easily jump a tooth on the current belts.