It's good to know that it's certainly possible to get this printing in this configuration given that there are larger versions out in the wild printing successfully!

I think those massive corner blocks might actually be contributing to the z possible skipping or jumping since it adds even more weight to an already heavy Z, and since they're only kitty corner from each other, it adds to instability.

Based on everyone's thoughts, this is my plan of attack:

Update printed parts with the newer mod versions that appear much stronger. Specifically the 3 wheel carriages. Thinking of printing in PETG, but open to thoughts on this as well.

For the Open builds steel gantry plates that ride on the verticals, I kind of feel like they're likely stronger than 3D printed because they're steel, but honestly, it seems like all modern D-bots and variants use the 3 wheel adjustable printed version, and I'm thinking there is a reason for that. Anyone have experience with that? Otherwise, I'm considering replacing the steel gantry plates with the 3D printed versions, or design a 3D printed plate to support the other end of the axles at least

Convert to a 3 ball screw configuration with a single z motor drive like Phaedrux shared in his build.

Rather than cut the Z down, I'm considering just moving the rails up and bracing them roughly in the middle of the legs for a shorter but hopefully more robust 400mm cube but still the same height so it can sit on the floor comfortably. Still on the fence about this, since I now think it's possible to get this printing well even at this height with the proper bracing

Add aluminum braces at key corners with all of the screws

Properly tension the belts, they are literally flapping the breeze they're so loose. This might actually be the main cause of the issues with failed prints since I'm positive I could easily jump a tooth on the current belts.

Hey @redrout,

closing this thread due to inactivity. Please re-open if your issue persists with newer version of paneldue.

Yep, so my thought was that if the board was placed on an ESD bag while it was powered, the slight conductivity could have shorted some near-by pins on the back of the board.

the belt should slip over the pulley before braking and the motor should skip steps way before.

the force required to break a belt is quite significant.

That's right 😉

YEAH many thanks for your help! This solves the problem. Now it's working fine.

Many thanks!

@droftarts I was right - it was simple. Thanks Ian both fans now working as expected.

@deckingman Holy crap! ok, thanks. I guess I should RTFM.

sorry i just realized how the setup is one.

are the switches NO or NC?

i would try to wire them in parallel and use M558 P5

they will need to be connected to the z probe port.

but a construct would allow the printhead to move. this would not be beneficial for the print quality.

It's working better than ever. Guess it just needed a firmware update.

Thanks a bunch for your fast and professional help. Even though the solution was simple, i likely wouldn't have ever fixed the issue since I was at the end of my rope. So, thanks again.

@Veti I just tried this but now I can't control my Y axis. Would you be so kind as to tell me what g-code I can send to undo this? Thank you!

That got it working! Thanks for the suggestion.

BTW: flashing the firmware with BOSSA on a Mac worked without a hitch.

Certainly worth a try...

EDIT:

Thanks...

Sometimes its the simple things you don't see... >_>

Alright that seems to have fixed it.

@dc42 Thanks for all your help!

Signal strength of -73dBm is marginal for the WiFi module. Please see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/WiFi_disconnections_and_AJAX_timeout_errors.

@dc42 said in PT100 failure lesson learned:

Temperature inaccuracies when using PT100 sensors are usually caused by poor connections. Each ohm of resistance in the connections or the cable will increase the reading by about 2.5C. I have this problem on one of my owm printers at present, I can make the reading change by more than 10C by waggling the cable close to one of the connectors.

Hmm, well I swapped with my other PT100 sensor and printing was transformed back to normal? I ordered another one tonight. Once I have 3 I may mess around with them.