Best posts made by JamesM

@tinken In the Machine Specific tab on the left side you will see the temperature options for the hotend and heated bed presets.

I'm sure it's unrelated but you need to look into a better power supply. Looking at your log from when the printer was running your voltage is dropping all the way down to 11.1 so I can see that causing issues.

I would lower your extruder acceleration quite a bit...10000 is rather high, especially for a non-geared extruder which I'm assuming you have due to the low steps/mm on the extruder. I would also raise the instantaneous speed change on the extruder to something between 800-1500.

I just wondering if that real high acceleration on the extruder is causing the issue.

You can mark this as solved.

Turns out for some reason I had to delete my old motion recordings to get the new ones to show up.

They are appearing for me now.

You need to crimp ferrules on the VIN, heated bed and hotend wires otherwise they can loosen up and cause issues.

2mm retraction for a direct drive is at the very limit. You may have too much retraction causing a slight blockage in the heat break. I would reduce it to 1mm and possibly lower for retraction length. For my E3D V6 and bondtech direct drive I am around 1.2mm and retract speed of 35mm/s.

I would recommend increasing your Z and E values in your M566 line. On both of my BLV CoreXY printers my Z instantaneous is set at 150 and my E is 2000.00. The E is most important when using pressure advance to maintain your print speed.

I would also increase the Z value in your M201 line. Mine are set at 50...too low and it can be a bit slow on a layer change increasing the chance of a blob.

It may take some testing to make sure that your extruder can handle this and not skip or chew the filament. I use Bondtech BMG direct drive extruders on all of my printers.

@ScubaDoge

I believe your G31 line is incorrect for your Z. It should be a positive number and not a negative.

For my BL-touch on one of my corexy printers, my G31 line is this
G31 P500 X-25.5 Y-20 Z2.62

With a negative z, that means the probe would be higher than the nozzle and it would never make contact. That might make sense for someone using a piezo sensor where the nozzle itself presses on the bed but not for something like a bl-touch.

Duet boards perform their PWM on the ground side and the positive side stays full voltage. The PWM converter you listed appears to want the PWM on the positive lead so it won't work with the duet. I know I've read there are ways around that but I don't remember what they are.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M303_Run_heater_tuning

Right there it says that it can/will overshoot the target temp when calibrating....by how much depends on how powerful the heater cartridge is. Something to watch out for that I have seen all too often is to make sure you have the correct voltage heater for your hotend. Many people will order a hotend or heater cartridge that is rated for 12 volts yet have a 24 volt power supply...this will make it heat up crazy fast and be pretty much uncontrollable and unsafe.

@bay3d
Here's the stepper section from my Ender 3. I have a pitan extruder (printable titan) so my esteps are different for it.

M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes forwards(changed to backwards)
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E408.30 ; Set steps per mm (gregs wade was 604 steps)
M360 E64 ; (My change) set extruder to 64 microsteps
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z60.00 E600.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X10800.00 Y9000.00 Z300.00 E3000.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1500.00 Y1500.00 Z30.00 E3000.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X850.00 Y850.00 Z850.00 E900.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

The first thing I would do is pep up the extruder settings a bit. Having the jerk and accelerations set so low on the extruder can cause some issues, especially if you are trying pressure advance at all which I would definitely recommend. On all 3 of my printers (Ender 3, Taz 6 and a custom CoreXY printer which all have duet wifi boards and bondtech extruders) I have instantaneous speed change of 1500 and acceleration of 1500. I don't know if the type extruder that the Ender printers come with stock can handle that high but I would bump them up to maybe 800 each as a start.

The max speeds also seem a little slow, This is what I have set on my Ender 3
M203 X10800.00 Y9000.00 Z300.00 E3000.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)

I would start off there and see if there is any improvement.

As for minimum layer time, I haven't used cura in quite a long time but I believe all that does is slow down the layer overall and not make it hang there.

With that overshoot in temperature I have to wonder if it's a problem with using a 12volt heater cartridge on a 24volt system.

If it's one of the cartridge thermistors I just had one start going wacky on me and it was the wires having issues close to the heater block. I noticed it when I touched/moved the thermistor wires a little bit and the hotend fan would turn on and off.

I would start looking there for them possibly shorting.

Your thermistor settings are wrong for both your bed and hotend.....The bed should be M305 P0 T100000 B3950 R4700 and the volcano if it has the E3D cartridge thermistor should be M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700

Many of the simple ac plugs with built in fuses only have a 5amp fuse in them. That would limit you to a maximum wattage of 600watts and then the fuse will blow. It took me quite a while to find one that actually had a 10amp fuse in it which allowed me to use my 750watt ac heated bed.

This is the one I use but they are listed as unavailable right now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KJV7XLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pretty sure they are just the start/stop points of lines(seams). Other than printing in vase mode they are nearly impossible to totally get rid of due to the nature of FDM printing. Things like coast, wipe, pressure advance will all help but when you have molten plastic being laid down in lines that start and stop there's not much that can be done.

Best thing you can do is properly tune your extruder, filament flow and work with pressure advance.

Looking at your config from your post, some of your values are rather low... This is what I have on my Ender 3 which should be similar for you. I think you need to up your speed, accel and jerk(instantaneous speed) on your extruder.

M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E408.30 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X500.00 Y500.00 Z30.00 E1500.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X10800.00 Y9000.00 Z300.00 E3000.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z500.00 E3000.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X950.00 Y950.00 Z850.00 E900.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

Well, turns out it was a dang broken wire.

Go figure...LOL.

This is a 12v milwaukee drill stand i printed yesterday with Hatchbox blue pla with the settings I mentioned above.

And this is my custom designed quick swap extruder setup I have on both of my BLV cubes. I know my wiring isn't neat by any means but it works perfectly

It looks like what happens when someone uses a 12volt heater cartridge with a 24volt power supply. I have seen a few people do that with their Ender 3 printers since they didn't know it was a 24volt system and they purchased what is used on a CR-10 printer which is 12 volts.