Topics created by JamesM

You can mark this as solved.

Turns out for some reason I had to delete my old motion recordings to get the new ones to show up.

They are appearing for me now.

@deckingman & @o_lampe
On my big ratrig v-core 3.1 I suspect it has some gantry sag..it's a big printer...500x500. I am re-doing a few things on that right now, replaced the gantry extrusion with a quality one from misumi, re-printed most of the printed parts, new y-linear rails since one that came with it was less than ideal.

I'm really curious to see how it is after all the replacements I'm doing on it. I even had two small custom extrusions cut from misumi to use as alignment spacers for the extrusions the y-rails mount to so they would be precisely lined up.

@Phaedrux
Well dang...I didn't even think of that. It always helps asking and someone else will think of something so simple.

Thanks!

@JamesM Is the bed heater running on AC (e.g. mains)? If so, stressing out the SSR is of lesser importance - assuming your SSR is zero crossing (best if it is in this case) you need a frequency much lower than the frequency of the power supply, e.g. a tenth of the mains frequency or lower (personally I use 3Hz).

Well, turns out it was a dang broken wire.

Go figure...LOL.

@jamesm said in Question about multiple heightmaps:

@fcwilt I managed to get it working. Took me a bit to figure out what I screwed up for homing the y-axis but I had forgot to tell it home high in the configurator and had to change that setting and in the homey and homeall files.

Now to check everything on it to make sure it works ok and do a test print.

Thanks for your patience and willingness to help me.

Glad to hear you are making progress - it's easy to mess up a parameter or two.

Always happy to help if I can or to happily screw things up as well. 😉

Frederick

Simple enough to do, I'll give it a go.

@MilošS

Here is my config.g file

config.g

And here is my bed.g file

bed.g

Every once in a while I equalize the leadscrews just by a quick macro I created which only has a G32 command in it but my bed really doesn't move when I turn the printer off so I only do it if I move the printer.

@dc42

If I was to do it how you suggested making 0,0 the bed center, would I then change my x and y minimum and maximum setting in my config?

Change from this
M208 X-9 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X300 Y300 Z250 S0 ; Set axis maxima

to this
M208 X-159 y-150 Z0 S1
M208 X150 Y150 Z 250

No such luck trying the other extruder driver. Has anyone seen anything like this pattern on solid layers of prints? These two are with totally different extruders. The white is PLA+ filament using a greg's wade extruder and the black is PETG filament using a PITAN extruder which is similar to the Titan but printed (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2728600)

Is it possible that this is some sort of wiring issue/interference? It doesn't appear on the outer walls though which is what really puzzles me.

Even different microstepping. The black was 64 microsteps and the white was 16 with interpolation. Both .3mm nozzles with a line width of .4mm and layer thickness of .2mm.

It appears on all solid layers after the first layer.

I guess the next thing I should try is a different nozzle for the heck of it.

The only concern I have with the wiring I did is the 120v wires are right next to the stepper wires on the Taz6 control box. Could it be interference from that? I would think it would be more pronounced if that was the case.

0_1550622056993_IMG_20190219_190845.jpg

0_1550622988774_IMG_20190219_193417.jpg

Thanks. Hopefully it works well next time I attempt a new mesh level.

You can find the relevant formula here to set the steps for the leadscrew axis

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Going_from_Marlin_on_Arduino_to_RepRapFirmware_on_Duet

Many users are running BLTouch successfully with Duet. the few that have problems are mostly using BLTouch clones rather than the real thing.

The IR sensor works best with non-transparent bed surfaces. PEI and glass are both problematic. One of my printers uses 3mm glass and the IR sensor works reasonable well on it, but I never coat the glass with anything.