Best posts made by LHelge

As DC42 mentions here:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/6815/saving-result-of-simulation-to-gcode-file

The resulting print time of a simulation is stored in the gcode-footer. My experience is that this estimation is very accurate, much more so than estimations from the slicer or DWC during print (based on filamet use, file progress and layer time).

Would it be possible to read this information from the gcode during print and display it alongside of the other print time estimations?

I would also be nice to see the print time estimation from simulation in the gcode file browser.

I think it would be nice if the resulting print time of a simulated (or real) print would be stored in the gcode-file header as a comment. This value could then be displayed in the gcode-file browser to get a good estimate if you would like to print a file again. It could also be used as a fourth estimate (apart from file, filament and layer progress) to get an estimate of when a print is done.

If print time is stored on the first line in the file every time, the most recent time estimate will be on the first line, and older estimates will be further down (if changes made in printer config affects print time)

Together with this, an option to batch run simulation on many files would also be nice. Perhaps an option to simulate all files, all files in a folder or all files that does not contain a print estimate.

I run my BL-Touch (the newest version) with 4 leads through a Molex Micro-Fit. The two GND-leads are internally connected in the BL-Touch. No need to connect both to the Duet board.

A few safetytips in addition to the ones mentioned above:

• Add a fuse with an appropriate rating on 230 V input. I use a separate fuse for the PSU and the bed, but that's not necessary. In my case the bed is at almost 1 kW, and the PSU on 200W and a single fuse would allow quite a lot of extra power to the PSU if the bed isn't active
• As Danal said, connect your frame to protective earth, but also the buildplate if that's conductive.
• Add a temperature switch to your buildplate. I use one rated at 130 deg C, which will protect me in case the SSR fails in shorted mode.
• Use the printer from an outlet protected by a RCD.

To avoid Z-banding it's important that the leadscrews are rigidly mounted in one end. Both ends is a bad idea, especially if the leadscrew or coupling isn't perfectly straight.

I have 3 printers:

• Prusa I2 style: Leadscrews hanging from a flexible coupling on the motor, no support in the bottom. -> Z-banding
• Prusa I3 style: Flexible coupling in the bottom to the motor and a bearing with set-screws on the top. -> no Z-banding
• Hypercube Evolution: Rigid couplings on the bottom by the motors, floating in normal bearing in the top. -> no Z-banding

Using VPN is a much better alternative. It also gives you the possibility to securely connect through your home internet when on a public wifi. I also use my VPN when traveling since a lot of Swedish streaming services will only work if your connection comes from within Sweden.

Installing a OPENVPN server on a spare Raspberry Pi is super easy with for example http://www.pivpn.io