This isn't really a bug but an annoyance that has now hit me a few times.

I have error messages not timing out, so I can leave, do stuff, then come back and see what happened. What this means is that I have to manually remove error messages and when I do that by clicking the close X button on my touchscreen I miss the X sometimes and instead it runs whatever random macro is underneath my finger because the macros display in the same screen area as the error messages.

Is there any way something there could be changed? Running a random macro when I want to close an error message isn't great.

Thanks. Mark

I just finished my Blv Mgn cube. After using Marlin for a long time I'm really liking the change anything from G/M-code stuff.

My prior Qidi printer cost ~$300 and prints flawlessly, still, after 4 years of almost-daily use (with a heat-block replacement to all-metal). This one I wanted much better upgradability, a larger bed, and good-quality board with open-source firmware.

This machine:
Duet 3 + Rpi 3B+
Two power supplies (one for bed) + Pi power supply
Mosfet switch for bed
Titan Aero extruder
"Real" 8020.net aluminum rails
inexpensive linear carriages, bearings, and lead-screws - already iffy
4 StepperOnline standard 59Ncm motors
bed -> CR10S 3mm aluminum bed, silicone baking sheet, Creality glass bed, Gizmodorks PEI sheet

So far it's working like a champ. No Z sensor but standard end-stop.

What seems like a teaching moment...

I reworked my IR sensor carrier to move the sensor closer to the hot-end and while I was at it I made the sensor board edges more orthogonal to the bed. This seems to produce far more consistent results and noticeably more range than the last less-careful mounting. (The first iteration had oval holes since I wasn't sure where it would end up)

@Veti I'm not using Hiwin rails but cheaper rails that have some small amount of slop even when new. It's not the carriage that's tilting here but it's all of the other mechanics - the 2020 interconnects and mainly the linkage from the carriage to the bed which relies on two small aluminum surface area's friction. If I had a magnetic bed, and never ever pushed on it, it might be ok - but for me just pressing on the bed to remove a printed part caused Y axis tilt.

Personally, if you're relying on a single linear rail/carriage to stop any tilt at all that's just not a good design and denies physics and wear over time. Just my opinion, although my cnc (which uses hiwin rails and always in pairs) has worked reliably for 15 years.

Consider this .... if your carriage bed assembly allows a tilt of 0.1 degree that correlates to a tilt of about 1/2mm of a 300mm bed - which is significant. If you have two carriages then the only way to get 0.1 degree of tilt is if they are at different heights and the assembly is almost irrelevant.

@dc42 Thanks for the info.

What seems like a teaching moment...

I reworked my IR sensor carrier to move the sensor closer to the hot-end and while I was at it I made the sensor board edges more orthogonal to the bed. This seems to produce far more consistent results and noticeably more range than the last less-careful mounting. (The first iteration had oval holes since I wasn't sure where it would end up)

@Veti Thanks, I may switch when I'm tired of this setup.

I just finished my build of a Blv Cube and want to get the height sensor working as well as possible. This is my first try using a height sensor and I'm curious what others do to get reliable results.

My bed is a not-flat aluminum 3mm (CR10) bed and on it there's a silicon baking sheet and then a borosilicate glass bed (Creality). The glass bed has a taped PEI sheet on one side and I'd like to put a Garolite sheet on the other side but haven't yet (I have the G10 sheet and tape).

The printer has 3 Z-axis motors/leadscrews so I could level via the motors.

The glass bed has a black dotted surface on one side (the side with the PEI sheet).

Things I've found...

After using the PEI for a while I've depressed parts of it - you can see the dips visually in a reflect-light - and those seem to affect the infrared sensor. If I do a G29 mesh scan on the PEI sheet I see all sorts of minor anomalies - I assume caused by the PEI refraction or physical imperfections or something. I tested to see if the anomalies were related to the dotted bed and didn't find a correlation.

If I flip the bed to the glass side and do a mesh scan it's almost perfectly flat.

My current work-flow is to now-and-then flip the bed over (to the glass), do a mesh scan and ensure the bed is level, then clear the height-map and flip the bed back to the PEI sheet. Once it's set to PEI I do a single G30 in the center before each print.

Concerns:

1. I'm worried that if I put the garolite sheet on the other side, over time I'll have the same effects as the PEI and I won't have a flat surface for reference.

2. I would rather not have to flip the bed over to do a height map.

3. I'd like to use the 3 z-axis leveling but that seems to require the glass surface for consistency.

Possible Solutions

I'm thinking about putting 4 "dots" on the bed corners like Lulzbot and having those produce a reference for the bed leveling. The bed is larger than I need currently.

So...

Does this make sense? Is there a material for the "dots" that would be flat and be a reliable infrared reference point on the glass bed? Am I missing obvious anything?

One other question. I see @dc42 comments on-line about mounting the infrared sensor near the hot-end for accuracy but when I looked up the processor on the sensor it has a very limited temperature range so I don't see how this doesn't fry the board.

Thanks.

Mark

@bearer I've had some issues getting conditionals to work correctly in the macros in current RRF so I've avoided them but that's a good idea.

@bearer I just used these voltage errors as examples in the picture because they were easy to cause (my 24V supply is turned off).

My experience is that usually the errors are caused by my tweaking stuff manually before starting a print - so I'll do a G30 before homing XY is the most common error. Or I'll run a macro that needs stuff homed before I remember to home. Or... you get the idea.

-Mark

"Making the whole error message clickable" would be an ok solution

Sorry, yes, I definitely meant DWC.

This isn't really a bug but an annoyance that has now hit me a few times.

I have error messages not timing out, so I can leave, do stuff, then come back and see what happened. What this means is that I have to manually remove error messages and when I do that by clicking the close X button on my touchscreen I miss the X sometimes and instead it runs whatever random macro is underneath my finger because the macros display in the same screen area as the error messages.

Is there any way something there could be changed? Running a random macro when I want to close an error message isn't great.

Thanks. Mark

@Veti I'm not using Hiwin rails but cheaper rails that have some small amount of slop even when new. It's not the carriage that's tilting here but it's all of the other mechanics - the 2020 interconnects and mainly the linkage from the carriage to the bed which relies on two small aluminum surface area's friction. If I had a magnetic bed, and never ever pushed on it, it might be ok - but for me just pressing on the bed to remove a printed part caused Y axis tilt.

Personally, if you're relying on a single linear rail/carriage to stop any tilt at all that's just not a good design and denies physics and wear over time. Just my opinion, although my cnc (which uses hiwin rails and always in pairs) has worked reliably for 15 years.

Consider this .... if your carriage bed assembly allows a tilt of 0.1 degree that correlates to a tilt of about 1/2mm of a 300mm bed - which is significant. If you have two carriages then the only way to get 0.1 degree of tilt is if they are at different heights and the assembly is almost irrelevant.

I said I'd 'report back' so after a few weeks of using the cube - yes the Z axis mechanics (at least with the metal kit) is bad.

I've increased the depth of the bed holder - it was far too narrow - and added a third 'leg' (leadscrew and rail) for stability. I hate using another motor driver (my last one...) but looking at the bed wrong caused it to tilt in the Y direction and this is the simplest fix.

Other than that, it's been working very well. I've built an Acrylic enclosure for doing Nylon but otherwise it's been fine.