Lets blame the bloody foreigner
Absolutely not. We're all foreigners to someone, which makes us all equal!
I've had quite a lot of help on here over the last few weeeks, most of it coming from users with 3D printers rather than CNC machines.
This made me wonder how many CNC users there are!
So here's a quick poll, which I'm happy for Admin to delete if I'm overstepping,....
Thank you, @dc42.
I was getting a bit tied up with this last night, but in the cold light of day - and after a good nights sleep! - a clear look at the problem certainly helps.
My thanks to @JoergS5 for pointing me towards the Z height, and everyone else who joined me on this journey.
Now all I have to do is find out why and prevent it from ruining my day again!
Not sure if this is what you wanted, @fcwilt, but here you go:
The machine is a RatRig 1075 KillerBee, although I've made a few amendments to the supplied machine, including using 4x proximity sensors instead of limit switches, and redesigned the spoil board supports. It has a Duet 3 MB6HC control board (as you already know!) connected via a wired network to a Microsoft Surface Pro.
Most of my work is done on my iMac, which is in the house, so I connect to the Surface Pro and the Duet via a wired network using powerline adapters.
Apart from my own knowledge limits, everything seems to work well - but the proof will be when I eventually make something!
So I guess there were no takers to resurrect this thread or take up maintenance of the app itself - and unfortunately I have no programming experience in anything other than VBA - but this strikes me as a brilliant idea.
I've downloaded the app for the App Store but, could I just ask, is this for WiFi connected 3D printers only, or is it/will it be available for networked CNC machines, please?
Thank you (especially for what you've done so far, @nomukaiki!)
You did, sorry @fcwilt. I'm switching between two threads and trying to cook my dinner!!
I would like the 0,0 to be right rear, in answer to your question (which I also missed )
Printers do have a Z height too, don't they? My knowledge of 3D printing is non-existent, in case you were wondering!
I'm not sure if following my setup would help, but here goes...
My CNC machine uses the MB6HC control board, and is located in my garden shed. I use an old Microsoft Surface Pro tablet with their keyboard (you can pick these or similar Windows machines up from CEX or similar secondhand retailers) connected to the control board using ethernet cables and powerline adapters. The adapter has three outlets, so I effectively use the adapter as a hub.
I have my main computer (an iMac) in the house, which has a hardwired network, and I connect the Surface Pro and the Duet to that network using the powerline adapter. I also have the facility to turn on/off my CNC machine using a WiFi-controlled power plug.
With this setup, I can use the 27" screen of my iMac to run the design software (Cut2D, at the moment) and access the control board's configuration files using Microsoft Remote Desktop.
Note, I do not run my machine remotely!
Hope this helps, but I'd be happy to provide photos and/or any guidance you may need.
aspire on the other hand is a bit out of my price range!
So, assuming Vectric (Cut2D, VCarve or Aspire) would meet your needs, their licence is for life, but any upgrades after the first 12 months would need to be paid for - and that's only really assuming they've added a feature you decide you need.
They support older versions too, as far as I understand it.
I'm not really sure "free" software is the way forward.
As a retired pensioner, every £1 I spend has to be justified, but I went down the Vectric Cut2D Desktop route. It provides everything I need for the time being (I will be upgrading to VCarve soon) and is good to learn Vectrics ways before upgrading. Also, they offer "price difference" upgrades, so you don't lose your initial investment.
I did try Fusion360, but it was far too complicated for this old brain!
I was rather hoping someone else would answer this question as well
As I understand it, the Pi can be powered from the Duet3, as per this guide, but there are limits, based on what is connected to the Pi.
This paragraph is an extract for the guidance document:
Electronics power consumption
Powering a SBC like the Pi3 from the Duet is feasible provided any USB peripherals attached to the Pi are very low power draw or have their own separate power supply. Higher power draw SBC like the Pi4 may draw more power than the internal 5v on the Duet can supply, especially with added peripherals. In general, for best results, it is recommended to power the Duet and the SBC separately to avoid power overdraw issues.
Furthermore, it is recommended to use a sufficient power supply for the Pi4 that is capable of providing 5a. The official Raspberry Pi Power Supply is a good example of this. Additionally, the USB cable used to power the Pi must be of good quality.
Power overdraw conditions may result in poor communication between the Pi and Duet. The Pi may display a lightning bolt icon on the display (if connected) which is a good indication there is a power supply problem.
So it seems you can use an external supply, but if you do connect one I think you will need to change the jumper settings (see photo) on the Duet board...
You may need to ensure GND is common between the boards too, unless that's achieved through the ribbon cable.
Hopefully someone will confirm this. I don't use a Pi so I'm not sure (and please note the comment in my signature below!)