Posts made by olee

@tombrazier , mayby a silly question but what rpm are you using when grinding bearings on your rotary tool? I was trying with 10k rpms and 2 bearings are not usable already. Not sure that it is because of the speed and now I am tweaking the jig but I'd like to know anyway.

@dc42 according to documentation in RRF 2.x P define a type and sometimes a pin too. P4 define type and pin is defined by C parameter. 9 ms is the time between my probe output (pushpull type) to reaction of the printer visible at accelerometer output so maybe it is the dynamics of my printer mechanics that determinied this time. If you consider that time is very long I am apted to the last so I try to live with it for awhile. Anyway thanks for all responses

@droftarts thank you. It was the reason I start this topic. Initially I was sure that only Z probe input allow P8 mode and I want to evaluate benefits of making extra circuit to combine outputs from two sensor and if extra work gives some prize for me. But dc42's reply gives me a hope to get it without extra work. Alas, now I am at the start of the problem now so if it is possiblle please clarify timing difference between filtered and iunfiltered mode. I am not ready to change to RRF 3.x version yet.

@droftarts , sorry guys, but P8 probe mode doesn't work on E2Stop input (M558 P8 F1200 H5 R0.4 C5). Duet2 doesn't see any signal from probe even constant high level and P4 works perfect. So not a remedy for me.

@dc42 , thank you. If I understood it correctly M558 P8 C5 ... would work for me? I use firmware 2.05

I am developing an effector similar to Smart Effector for using my dc42 Kossel as an automatic solder paste dispenser. I use LSM6DS3 accelerometer chip as Z probe. At the moment it works pretty well for me and triggers an output within 1-2 milliseconds after plastic TT needle touches the bed or board on it. I use E2Stop input on my Duet2 Internet controller as Z probe input, P4 probe type in M558 command.

Everything worked satisfactory but there is a problem: time delay between my probe output and start of reaction the system is about 9 milliseconds. It is somehow long for my case (plastic needles is a delicate matter). As I understand it all Z probe inputs have some sort of filtering on them except the dedicate Z probe input on Duet2 board at P8 probe mode. But I don’t disconnect the Smart Effector when using my own effector, so if I want to use this dedicated input I need some sort of combining circuit.

So that is a question: what is the time of reaction difference between filtered and unfiltered inputs and is there any sense to mess with an additional circuit?

@jay_s_uk said in magnetic PEI sheet - will it interfere with smarteffector?:

I use a whambam system on my predator (PEI sheet with magnetic base)

Does you print nylon filament? And if so is there any issue with adhesion? Thanks for advance.

I have not got removable PEI sheet (but consider one as a replacement) but I use geckotek3d spring steel sheet on magnet base with smarteffector for about 3 years and have no problems with it. So IMO it should be the same with PEI sheet on magnet base. BTW I would like to know how will PEI be working as my geckotek3d cover has worn and they do not produce the plate anymore. HTH

Thanks everybody who response to me! Your help is appreciated. I might contact Olsson directly but not sure they know smart effector very well. Accordingly to BPisLife remark now I am inclined to try hardened steel nozzle first.

@chrishamm : Thanks for your response! Was there anyone at the show that used Olsson Ruby with direct contact Z-probe?

I have been successfully using standard brass nozzle in E3D V6 hotend for some time and was happy. Now I am going to try some of advanced filament like CF filled nylon. They are abrasive so more hard nozzle is the must. I would like to use Olsson Ruby but not sure how it will work with Smart effector. Does it survive impacts with the hot bed during auto-calibration? Maybe someone has an experience with such combination.

As the topic starter I have just received a very generous offer from Haydn willing to send me a set of ball studs from the new batch free from charge. What's an exceptional service! Many thanks to Haydn for his hard work of improving already excellent design!

Thanks for your info!

@dc42:

I don't advise connecting multiple fans in series, because there is no guarantee that they will divide the voltage equally, especially if they are mounted in different ways so that one experiences greater resistance to air movement than the other.

Me too, I just would like to know if noctua's fans can be controlled by supply voltage PWM to use them with 12V power as they are very low noise and long lasting fans.

What is the configuration that works for you? Parallel connection with 24V-12V DC-DC converter or a series one without PWM pin? Just want to know if noctua's fan is working if controlled by PWM of supply voltage.

If I got it right you have 24V PSU so you put the fans in series. But you have no chance to make PWM control from a single signal in this configuration without quite a fancy level translator circuit. So your best solution would be like in the last post of thread you gave the link on. You should use a 24V-12V DC-DC converter. Connect its input to your PSU output and its output to power and ground pins on your fans in parallel (yellow and black wires at fan connector). Then you can connect PWM control pins of the fans to FAN0 on DUET board (or any other which are convenient for you) in parallel. This configuration should work and control fans' speed down to 20% according to datasheet.
ADD: You can try to use series connection of the fan but leave the pwm pins unconnected and connecting power supply pins of the fans to fan connector on Duet board. Then you can use standard pwm mode of Duet firmware. I don't know if noctua's fans would be speed-controlled in this configuration.

Won't argue with you as I don't have any practical experience of using LEDs with such low currents. Anyway thanks for a new knowledge you gave me.

If you look at photos of OP you see he is measuring voltage between 2 terminals not diode test.
ADD: And I have mistaken in the post above: the current through LED should be about 1.2 uA not 12 uA. So it makes the multimeter much more unlike as a shunt to lights LED on.

Look at the spec's of my multimeter (Fluke 289), input impedance 10MOhm < 100pF so the current through LED is about 12 uA in our case. Don't think this current is able to fire up any perceivable glow in LED. To speak frankly I don't check it by myself so can be mistaken and contemporary LEDs might be such effective.

If the multimeter is in good shape it would have input resistance in order of mega-ohms so it can't provide an essential current to light LED and to make such a big voltage drop across LED. I suspect that heater's nMOS switch is partly fried.