Best posts made by oryhara

It works. Took about 23 minutes to reach 50 degrees.
I want to thank everyone here for their help.

In case anybody wants to repeat my success, here is what I did:
this heater element:
https://www.mcmaster.com/3575K411/
with this fan:
https://www.mcmaster.com/1976K95/
this SSR:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVR37QN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this thermistor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V6YBFSY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this TCO:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JM2DB67/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wired them up per this diagram

@mrehorstdmd said in Chamber heater plan:

Wiring:

this may be a stupid question, but why are you bothering to dry ABS?
I thought ABS was hydrophobic and therefore won't absorb water.

At the risk of dredging up a dead thread, i want to give one last update.
I didn't calibrate the MCU temperature sensor, so i'm going to do that and it should fix the issue i mentioned in my previous post.

I run a 3d printing user group out of the Improving Office at 10111 Richmond ave, Houston TX every 3rd monday starting at 6PM.
Our next meeting is the 16th, and we're talking about gears.

There is free pizza and beer.
All are welcome.

Here is a link to the meetup group.
https://www.meetup.com/3d-Printing-Concepts-to-Contraptions/

if it says its full just pm me and i'll delete some bots and let you in. Meetup has tons of bots join groups to get them to 50 so we have to upgrade to the more expensive plan.

Klein makes excellent wire strippers. Best I've ever used. Gotta strip before you crimp.
And I second the 'right tool for the right job' sentiment. especially regarding crimpers.

I think I fixed it.

I repositioned the fan blowing at the MCU so it aims underneath instead of directly at the board from the side(see picture). That fan was standing straight up vertically, now angled down under the maestro.
Haven't seen a warning since.

@mrehorstdmd said in Chamber heater plan:

@oryhara Photo of the assembly?

here's the SSR up top in the electronics area.

here's the heater and fan.
The brackets made acquaintance with a belt sander to clean up the bandsaw cuts, per CalvinX's suggestion.

and the tco

It's not exactly like the wiring diagram. I'd rather the TCO killed just the heater and not the heater and fan but that cabling would be much more complicated.

Now I'm testing how much warp i get on an ABS print by printing something that would totally warp without a chamber heater. This V-shaped shelf bracket:

I have a plan to build a chamber heater for my anycubic predator. I just want to run that plan by some folks that are smarter than me before I go and do something stupid.
I have an anycubic predator running a duet maestro and a smart effector. I have a fan on E1, so I can't use that pin. But I figured I could use output EXP_0 from the expansion header to control a 25 Amp SSR in bang-bang mode, with a 110V heat gun in the enclosure as the heating element. I picked a heat gun because its got heating element an fan and that seems like the best way to do a chamber heater.
Is this a terrible idea? If so, why, and do you have an alternative suggestion?