Best posts made by percar

I am running a push pull system. I have my two motors in series they are both bondetech extruder drives with exactly the same ratio. I had tried hooking both drives to seperate drivers on the duetwifi and i used mixing extruder in my case 1:1 ratio it worked but amount of filament used on the DWC was way off basically if the part required 10 meters of filament dwc would say it had used 20 meters of filament. My suggestion to you is to use identical extruder drives with and hook them up in series...I keep the one closest to the extruder fairly tight and the push drive a bit on the loose side.....I have never had a problem with missmatch between the two drives....I have done prints in excess of 40hrs

I have a new housing design for the filament monitor if you wish to try it. It doesn't take long to print
and so far has been consistent on the filaments that I have tried.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3219410

One other thing that I noticed on the image is that the bed does not seem to be level this can also appear to be under extruding. If you look at the left side of the image the lines seem to be joining however on the right side the lines are not joining. This may indicate a none level build platform. The other item that you have to look at is the start height of the print. If the nozzle is too far away from the platform it will also appear to be under extruding at the plastic will not be squished and will appear narrow. This also looks like the first few layers of print. What happens if you complete this test cube. Does the infill get better as more layers get printed?

I use Borosilicate Glass (I use this to prevent bed warpage) with buildtak flex system. I use hairspray on the buildtak as PETG tends to stick too well. Bed temperature of 80-90 and nozzle temp 240. NO COOLING FAN. As people have mentioned in the post not all filament is the same. Be also careful of the layer heights and the larger layer heights and print widths can also cause larger shrinkage and cause some warping. Lower layer heights give the part a chance to relax between layers.
My build surface is 300 x 600 and i have done prints to almost full bed size with PETG...

I had the same issues with the corners. Tried everything the same as you did. This is how I resolved it noting that I was using Simplify 3d slicer to as my slicer. I was about to give up however I went to the Kissslicer and download Kisslicer and set it up almost to the default except for the printer hardware. Low and behold the corner blobs went away.. ok so what is the difference. I compared the settings of both slicers and discovered that Kisslicer printed perimeters Outside in . I had simplify 3d set to inside out as recommended almost everywhere. Once I changed to outside in the issues went away. Change all the pressure advance, retract, additional advance to 0 and the slowly recalibrate those settings. Just do one at a time in very small increments. I now have almost perfect parts.

There is a stepper motor calculator that can be found at https://daycounter.com/Calculators/Stepper-Motor-Calculator.phtml if you fill in all the information you will get a theoretical max speed that you can drive the motor. I did a simple check using information provided for stepper motors from (stepperonline.com) using the following motors (nema 17 17HS16-2004D 45Ncm) and (nema 23 23HS20-2004S 90Ncm) you will see that the calculator outputs the results Nema 17 max speed max speed 11.6rev sec and the nema 23 max speed 6 rev sec. It is not just the inertia but also the induction that plays with the max speed a stepper can move. If for example you were to change the induction on the Nema 17 motor from 2.6mh to 5mh you will see that the Nema 17 motor would now only have a max speed of 6 rev sec. I hope this helps a bit

The remaining filament shows N/A however the paneldue shows time remaining
I am wondering if it is because I am using 2 drives for the extruder ( The filament is quite far from the pinter and I had discover that 2 drives prevents any issues ( I had put the drives in series however now I am using 2 separate drives mapped as below
M584 X3:4 Y0 Z2:1 E5:6 ; Apply custom drive mapping

Are you printing on bare aluminum?
If you are that may be a problem try covering with Kapton tape and using hair spray it works wonders
I too tried cast aluminum plate with the same result I ended up switching to Borosilicate glass and my problems with leveling went away

What hardware changes are required in order to run SBC build of RRF for Duet 2

One other note that I forgot to mention. The filament amount is displayed when I initially start the print however it is depleted about halfway through the print and that is when this issues as explained come up

Just and additional thought
I would put the microscope so you can see if the belt is repeatable this will rule out backlash. it is is not repeatbable do the same with the motor to see if that is repeatable. I do know if you are stopping on a microstep this may not be repeatable