Posts made by percar

I have built a 60cm x 30cm printer about 8 yrs ago and have gone through all the trials and errors in order for it to be successful.
I started with a large cast aluminum build plate.(cast aluminum is known for dimensional stability and is used in precision fixturing.) While heating this plate it would deform and i had a huge problem keeping it level. The next phase was to use borosilicate glass. This solved the problem of deformation during heating and the plate stayed level. I use 2 lead screws for the Z axis and i do a bed level before every print. Keep the x y as light as possible as this is where the effects of weight will slow down the printing. I use a direct drive extruder and my print speed is restricted to around 60mm second. Travel speed is around 90mm sec. Although it is not a speed demon it works for me. I have explored the use of closed loop steppers and have found out that i can increase the speed slightly but in the long run it is not work the complexity at this time. I have performed prints that have duration of mor than 4 days printing time without issues.

they work great.....i have one using it on an tenslog idex pringer

I have the same setup and the same issue
If you wire up both SCRs in parallel then each heater element is not closed loop
I just ensure that the Start GCODE starts both heaters and end GCODE shuts off both heaters
M104 P0 S<TEMP>; set bed 0 temp
M104 P1 S<TEMP>; set bed 1 temp

There are two things that will cause this

1. Nozzle too close to the build plate... Print first layer and measure layer to make sure that the layer is actually the right thickness...if first lay is to be .3mm then the first layer print should also be 3mm.
   This may also be a bed level problem
2. Over extrusion... this can happen if you have if you have adjusted first layer extrusion width to be more than 100%

Just and additional thought
I would put the microscope so you can see if the belt is repeatable this will rule out backlash. it is is not repeatbable do the same with the motor to see if that is repeatable. I do know if you are stopping on a microstep this may not be repeatable

Are you using Bang Bang heater control or PID
A long time ago i was using BANG BANG and i put a indicator on the platform and i could see movment in the platform of up to .2mm. I changed to PID and that variation went away..you can use PID with SSR without a problem.
Also if i were you i would use a seperate power supply for the DUET controller and one for the bed heater that should control your 24vdc variations. (Personally i would use mains to power a bed heater but that means purchasing a new heater)
One other thing that i noticed was the way you are pulling the filament off the spool. With that arrangement you are going to be twisting the filament. This may cause issues with the extruder.

Check out the M82 M83 issue
I recently had the same issue and i was pulling out my hair
Ensure that your slicer is not inserting M82 or M83 someplace it shouldnt
I found my issuer on my Z homing file that i had written years ago

@jrjones88
There are a couple of items that can be causing this

1. Check to insure that the extruder and hot end are not moving or loose. If it is loose then may get something that looks like your print
2. Even though you are not hearing any clicking on the extruder the filament may not be feeding smoothly. Is this a bowden type extruser or direct Drive?
   If it is a bowden extruder try squirting some light oil in the bowden extruder to help eleviate some of the friction.
   Also clean out the nozzle as sometimes there are some small chunks in the nozzle that block the filament from extruding smoothly
   Check the actual filament drive as I have had issues where there was a string that was wedging against the filament and causing inconsistant extrusion
3. The extruder is too cold. When going up in nozzle size you may have to increase the temperature for the highter volume. Try 10 or 15 degrees higher and see if it helps

@docfail
I use kisslicer, superslicer, simplify3d all the instructions are in mosaic support area
each of the slicers have there own issues so its what works best for you

What Errors are you getting
I used this setup without issue
Also octoprint is not too friendly making the connection to Duet

if it happens again dont be scared to spray some wd 40 into the tube this will assist in pulling it out....

@o_lampe
I think they mean wiggle
If this is the case then maybe the filament is stripped and wiggling will get it to catch again

I am using high temperature silicon for the adessive. I had this under a press during curing so that there were no voids. I am using 2 heating pads each with their own controls and scr. Each pad has its own safety to prevent over heating. Each pad has type K thermocouple. Heater control is commercial heater control with an analog input so that Duet and control temperatures. The controller has safety cutoff if it runs outside of the set range plus the safety switches. I have been using this for a few years without issue. Thickness of the glass is important as the thicker glass gives more stable temperatures.

mrehorstdmd

You are incorrect with the kinematic mount. What will happen is that the outer edge will always be cooler than the mid area of the plate unless you have chamber heat that will equalize the plate temperature. This is what will cause warpage...do the math. I had heater that was full width and length of the plate that I was using.
I am questioning the glass that you were using as you said it broke. Im not sure that it was borosilicate as it is very difficult to break unless you are using very thin glass. I am using 10mm thick and heat up is not an issue as i am using mains heater at 15 watts per square inch. It takes about a minute to heat from room temp to 100c and the heat is very uniform across the glass except for the outer 10mm.
Thicker glass will give you more uniform temperature across the surface.

if the heated platform is large do yourself a favour and get borosilicate glass that eliminates distortion due to thermal coefficients of expansion. I went through this exercise with my printer having 300mm x 600mm bed. I started off using Cast tooling plate however you could literally measure the distortion during heating with a dial indicator. I had tried all the common fixes but the reality is that the edges of the plate do not heat up the same as mid plate. Once i changed to the borosilicate glass all the issues went away. I know the borosilicate is expensive however the expense is well worth it saving a lot of problems. There is virtually no distortion with the borosilicate.

@deckingman
Use hair spray on the glass plate. This is not to help it stick but to assist in removal. I use this on PETG all the time as PETG tends to stick too well to glass plate

Is this at 100% infill....a solid block
Post your gcode file here if you can

I am running a push pull system. I have my two motors in series they are both bondetech extruder drives with exactly the same ratio. I had tried hooking both drives to seperate drivers on the duetwifi and i used mixing extruder in my case 1:1 ratio it worked but amount of filament used on the DWC was way off basically if the part required 10 meters of filament dwc would say it had used 20 meters of filament. My suggestion to you is to use identical extruder drives with and hook them up in series...I keep the one closest to the extruder fairly tight and the push drive a bit on the loose side.....I have never had a problem with missmatch between the two drives....I have done prints in excess of 40hrs

Idea maker does have a multiplier it is in the filament settings
To access that setting go to top line menu
Printer
Filament settings
General tab
you will see flowrate in that setting

I have been running the Mosaic and Octoprint without issues
I did not use dwc and only used octoprint
it would be nice if we were able to go directly to dwc but this is not in the works for now