@Phaedrux said in Printer goes past endstops:
Is it actually homing?
Can you send M581 T1 and report back with what it says?
You may also want to upgrade your firmware to 3.5.3 so that we're on the same firmware page.
M581 T1
Trigger 1 fires only when printing on a falling edge of endstops/inputs X Y
It homes like normal. I updated my firmware to 3.5.3 and no change.
@oliof said in Printer goes past endstops:
try S0 as most endstops are normally closed.
I tried S1 and S0 and both paused immediatly.
@Phaedrux I have a BLV MGN Cube. Its CoreXY with a Duet 2 WiFi running RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.4.4. Endstops are microswitches at -X and +Y and BLTouch on -Z. What else do you need to know?
Here is my latest config.g
@Phaedrux I added M581 but it just always triggers as soon as the print starts. I tried S0 and S1. The head is far from either endstop when the print starts so I know its not touching the switch.
M581 T1 X Y S1 R1 ; set endstops as estop and pause on trigger while printing@Phaedrux Thanks. I thought the endstops became estops automatically.
My printer skipped steps and crashed into the endstop but didn't stop. The endstops are used for homing and work fine but don't stop the printer while its printing. I also verified that they trigger properly with M119. How do I set the behavior if an endstop is triggered?
Core XY printer with Duet 2 WiFi
RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.4.4
config (1).g
M574 X1 S1 P"xstop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on X via pin xstop
M574 Y2 S1 P"ystop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on Y via pin ystop@jay_s_uk I finally got it through bossa. Weird that it wouldn't take the firmware any other way. Thanks for the help!
@jay_s_uk It seems my printer isn't connecting to the wi-fi after I tried installing 3.3. It also is still at version 3.1.1. I think It will be easier to pull the sd card at this point.
@jay_s_uk The 3.4.0 version also doesn't include the IAP. I had renamed Duet2_SDiap32_WiFiEth.bin to Duet2CombinedIAP.bin. I also tried Duet2CombinedFirmware.bin and no luck.
@jay_s_uk Thanks for the reply. Here is the output:
10/22/2022, 3:17:30 AM Connection established
10/22/2022, 3:17:17 AM M997 S0
I can see that it tries to look for updates but doesn't do anything.
I am trying to update from 3.1.1 to 3.4.4 but each time I try to install the firmware, it doesn't work. I uploaded "Duet2and3Firmware-3.4.4.zip" to /sys and clicked yes to install system files. It shows update progress, then restarts, but afterwards it still says version 3.1.1. It did update Duet web control to 3.4.4 though. I also checked M122 and it confirms firmware is still 3.1.1.
Duet Web Control 3.4.4
Board: Duet 2 WiFi (2WiFi)
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.1.1 (2020-05-19b2)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.27
@Phaedrux genius
Bed at 60C for the first layer, then off. I just have to get PID mode working then.
@Veti I just checked the lead screws and there is very slight bend, like 0.5mm off the table. I don't think that would account for what I am seeing here. When I do get a good print, I think I can see the effect of that bend and its is not ridges, just very slight deformation every 4mm. The ridges in the above parts are usually 1.4mm apart but as you can see in the first part on the left, the ridges can be further apart.
@Phaedrux Yes but I'm sure you noticed it is in bang-bang mode. I have an issue where the entire thing hums audibly so I can't use pwm.
@Veti Yeah I know it looks like banding due to the lead screws, but how does that make sense when some parts or half a print comes out perfect? Also I greased my lead screws last month with ptfe grease and they are very low friction, can be back-driven easily. Also the pitch doesn't match the banding, the lead screws are 2mm pitch with 4 starts but the banding is not a multiple of that and changes between prints or sections of the print.
I didn't realize about the interpolation, I'll try changing it and see what happens.
Can you tell me exactly what you did to solve this? I am having what looks like a similar issue https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/21878/intermittent-z-issues
I'm having an issue where some of my prints have what looks like Z-wobble but I don't think that's the actual issue. Some prints have it throughout the whole print, some not at all, and some only on certain layers. I saw this post and maybe its related? I did a bunch of test prints to see if it was related to infill or the seam location (which was the solution of that post) but I didn't get the same results.
I thought it might have to do with Z-ribbing due to math errors from weird layer layer heights or something (Taxonomy of Z axis artifacts) but I set my Z axis microstepping to 64x from 16x, and no change.
I don't know what to try next, any help is appreciated, thanks.
These are the same part (left is top of print), the ridges line up exactly with the bolt holes. Also some ridges on the top end, no bolt holes at those layers.
Ridges on the entire part, very noticeable at the wider part.
PrusaSlicer, 20% fill, aligned seams
Noticeable ridges on certain layers
[accidently overwrote the gcode]
PrusaSlicer, 20% fill, random seams
No better
20mm_Cylinder_random.gcode
PrusaSlicer, 20% fill, nearest seam
No better
20mm_Cylinder_near.gcode
PrusaSlicer, 20% fill, aligned seams, exterior perimeter first
Better but still has ridges
20mm_Cylinder_ext.gcode
PrusaSlicer, no fill, aligned seams
Bottom has ridges but top is very good, surprised the print actually completed though
20mm_Cylinder_0.gcode
PrusaSlicer, no fill, aligned seams
Edited the model to be able to print with no infill, completely different from the previous result but with the same settings
20mm_Cylinder.gcode
PrusaSlicer, spiral
Really nice result, this is what they should all look like (ignoring the cooling issues)
20mm_Cylinder_Spiral.gcode
Cura, 20% fill, default seams
Same as PrusaSlicer results
CFFFP_20mm_Cylinder.gcode
Cura, no fill, default seams
No better
CFFFP_20mm_Cylinder_0.gcode
Not all spiral prints are ridge free.
Printer:
config.g
Duet 2 WiFi
CoreXY 300x300x300
E3D Hemera
X,Y,Z linear rails
X,Y belt drive
2x Z lead screw
Imo it looks better than those rollers you see in a lot of cheap printers. It definitely won't be as good as a linear rail (but you know that). For long runs it might be better than linear rods because of the stiffness of the extrusion. I would be mostly concerned about rotation around its travel axis.
@Phaedrux I replaced the nozzle with a genuine E3D V6 0.4 mm nozzle, I measured a print 20 mm in Z was exactly 20 mm, CURA is set to 100% flow, I edit the config.g in the duet web control system editor tab.
What slicer would you recommend? I just reinstalled CURA for this new printer and my profiles are as stock as they get. I am most used to CURA but also used ideamaker in the past.
Here is benchy which printed just as badly as those temp towers.
CFFFP_3DBenchy.gcode
@Phaedrux said in Print quality issue:
Can you set the temp to 180c and then try to extrude as you decrease the temp. We'd expect that at 160c or so you wouldn't be able to extrude anymore. (note you may need to allow cold extrudes with M302 P1 before testing)
I just did this test and it stops extruding at around 160 C. I'm at a loss right now and it is difficult to troubleshoot since I don't have another hot extruder to test with.
@Veti said in Print quality issue:
same situation here.
i ordered this
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000983379658.html
Hmm looks decent and I can get it with a Volcano
@Phaedrux said in Print quality issue:
Can you set the temp to 180c and then try to extrude as you decrease the temp. We'd expect that at 160c or so you wouldn't be able to extrude anymore. (note you may need to allow cold extrudes with M302 P1 before testing)
I'll try that. I'm pretty sure I have the correct thermistor values since they were specified for me (from the kit I got) but the thermistor model numbers were not listed.
The temperature towers did change temperature and I was able to see it correctly set in the duet web control.