@jay_s_uk I finally got it through bossa. Weird that it wouldn't take the firmware any other way. Thanks for the help!
Posts made by Phantom329
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RE: Firmware installs but doesn't update
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RE: Firmware installs but doesn't update
@jay_s_uk It seems my printer isn't connecting to the wi-fi after I tried installing 3.3. It also is still at version 3.1.1. I think It will be easier to pull the sd card at this point.
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RE: Firmware installs but doesn't update
@jay_s_uk The 3.4.0 version also doesn't include the IAP. I had renamed Duet2_SDiap32_WiFiEth.bin to Duet2CombinedIAP.bin. I also tried Duet2CombinedFirmware.bin and no luck.
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RE: Firmware installs but doesn't update
@jay_s_uk Thanks for the reply. Here is the output:
10/22/2022, 3:17:30 AM Connection established
10/22/2022, 3:17:17 AM M997 S0I can see that it tries to look for updates but doesn't do anything.
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Firmware installs but doesn't update
I am trying to update from 3.1.1 to 3.4.4 but each time I try to install the firmware, it doesn't work. I uploaded "Duet2and3Firmware-3.4.4.zip" to /sys and clicked yes to install system files. It shows update progress, then restarts, but afterwards it still says version 3.1.1. It did update Duet web control to 3.4.4 though. I also checked M122 and it confirms firmware is still 3.1.1.
Duet Web Control 3.4.4
Board: Duet 2 WiFi (2WiFi)
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.1.1 (2020-05-19b2)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.27 -
RE: Intermittent Z issues
@Phaedrux genius
Bed at 60C for the first layer, then off. I just have to get PID mode working then.
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RE: Intermittent Z issues
@Veti I just checked the lead screws and there is very slight bend, like 0.5mm off the table. I don't think that would account for what I am seeing here. When I do get a good print, I think I can see the effect of that bend and its is not ridges, just very slight deformation every 4mm. The ridges in the above parts are usually 1.4mm apart but as you can see in the first part on the left, the ridges can be further apart.
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RE: Intermittent Z issues
@Phaedrux Yes but I'm sure you noticed it is in bang-bang mode. I have an issue where the entire thing hums audibly so I can't use pwm.
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RE: Intermittent Z issues
@Veti Yeah I know it looks like banding due to the lead screws, but how does that make sense when some parts or half a print comes out perfect? Also I greased my lead screws last month with ptfe grease and they are very low friction, can be back-driven easily. Also the pitch doesn't match the banding, the lead screws are 2mm pitch with 4 starts but the banding is not a multiple of that and changes between prints or sections of the print.
I didn't realize about the interpolation, I'll try changing it and see what happens.
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RE: Why does infill cause my outlines to look bad?
Can you tell me exactly what you did to solve this? I am having what looks like a similar issue https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/21878/intermittent-z-issues
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Intermittent Z issues
I'm having an issue where some of my prints have what looks like Z-wobble but I don't think that's the actual issue. Some prints have it throughout the whole print, some not at all, and some only on certain layers. I saw this post and maybe its related? I did a bunch of test prints to see if it was related to infill or the seam location (which was the solution of that post) but I didn't get the same results.
I thought it might have to do with Z-ribbing due to math errors from weird layer layer heights or something (Taxonomy of Z axis artifacts) but I set my Z axis microstepping to 64x from 16x, and no change.
I don't know what to try next, any help is appreciated, thanks.
These are the same part (left is top of print), the ridges line up exactly with the bolt holes. Also some ridges on the top end, no bolt holes at those layers.
Ridges on the entire part, very noticeable at the wider part.
PrusaSlicer, 20% fill, aligned seams
Noticeable ridges on certain layers
[accidently overwrote the gcode]
PrusaSlicer, 20% fill, random seams
No better
20mm_Cylinder_random.gcode
PrusaSlicer, 20% fill, nearest seam
No better
20mm_Cylinder_near.gcode
PrusaSlicer, 20% fill, aligned seams, exterior perimeter first
Better but still has ridges
20mm_Cylinder_ext.gcode
PrusaSlicer, no fill, aligned seams
Bottom has ridges but top is very good, surprised the print actually completed though
20mm_Cylinder_0.gcode
PrusaSlicer, no fill, aligned seams
Edited the model to be able to print with no infill, completely different from the previous result but with the same settings
20mm_Cylinder.gcode
PrusaSlicer, spiral
Really nice result, this is what they should all look like (ignoring the cooling issues)
20mm_Cylinder_Spiral.gcode
Cura, 20% fill, default seams
Same as PrusaSlicer results
CFFFP_20mm_Cylinder.gcode
Cura, no fill, default seams
No better
CFFFP_20mm_Cylinder_0.gcode
Not all spiral prints are ridge free.
Printer:
config.g
Duet 2 WiFi
CoreXY 300x300x300
E3D Hemera
X,Y,Z linear rails
X,Y belt drive
2x Z lead screw -
RE: Any thoughts on using ExoSlide for a CoreXY motion system?
Imo it looks better than those rollers you see in a lot of cheap printers. It definitely won't be as good as a linear rail (but you know that). For long runs it might be better than linear rods because of the stiffness of the extrusion. I would be mostly concerned about rotation around its travel axis.
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RE: Print quality issue
@Phaedrux I replaced the nozzle with a genuine E3D V6 0.4 mm nozzle, I measured a print 20 mm in Z was exactly 20 mm, CURA is set to 100% flow, I edit the config.g in the duet web control system editor tab.
What slicer would you recommend? I just reinstalled CURA for this new printer and my profiles are as stock as they get. I am most used to CURA but also used ideamaker in the past.
Here is benchy which printed just as badly as those temp towers.
CFFFP_3DBenchy.gcode -
RE: Print quality issue
@Phaedrux said in Print quality issue:
Can you set the temp to 180c and then try to extrude as you decrease the temp. We'd expect that at 160c or so you wouldn't be able to extrude anymore. (note you may need to allow cold extrudes with M302 P1 before testing)
I just did this test and it stops extruding at around 160 C. I'm at a loss right now and it is difficult to troubleshoot since I don't have another hot extruder to test with.
@Veti said in Print quality issue:
same situation here.
i ordered this
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000983379658.htmlHmm looks decent and I can get it with a Volcano
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RE: Print quality issue
@Phaedrux said in Print quality issue:
Can you set the temp to 180c and then try to extrude as you decrease the temp. We'd expect that at 160c or so you wouldn't be able to extrude anymore. (note you may need to allow cold extrudes with M302 P1 before testing)
I'll try that. I'm pretty sure I have the correct thermistor values since they were specified for me (from the kit I got) but the thermistor model numbers were not listed.
The temperature towers did change temperature and I was able to see it correctly set in the duet web control.
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Print quality issue
I have not been able to get a passable print from my new machine. I recalibrated the E-steps, swapped nozzles, and swapped filaments but still no change. I printed two temperature towers and they are both awful and ended up knocking the print over. I have a suspicion that the feeder is the problem but I'm pretty much out of ideas. I plan to buy an E3D Hemera but I have no idea when it will be in stock. What should I do?
These pictures make it look overextruded but its not. E-steps are set perfectly and CURA correctly shows 1.75mm filament on a 0.4mm nozzle.
; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 3) ; executed by the firmware on start-up ; ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.1.4 on Thu Sep 24 2020 07:39:49 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) ; General preferences G90 ; send absolute coordinates... M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves M550 P"Phantom Cube" ; set printer name M669 K1 ; select CoreXY mode ; Network M552 S1 ; enable network M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet ; Drives M569 P0 S1 ; physical drive 0 goes forwards M569 P1 S1 ; physical drive 1 goes forwards M569 P2 S0 ; physical drive 2 goes backwards M569 P3 S0 ; physical drive 3 goes backwards M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3 ; set drive mapping M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation M92 X200.00 Y200.00 Z400.00 E417.00 ; set steps per mm M566 X720.00 Y720.00 Z12.00 E120.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z600.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z250.00 E1000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2) M906 X1600 Y1600 Z1600 E1600 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout ; Axis Limits M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima M208 X350 Y310 Z310 S0 ; set axis maxima ; Endstops M574 X1 S1 P"xstop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on X via pin xstop M574 Y2 S1 P"ystop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on Y via pin ystop M574 Z1 S2 ; configure Z-probe endstop for low end on Z ; Z-Probe M558 P1 C"zprobe.in" H20 F240 T6000 ; set Z probe type to unmodulated and the dive height + speeds G31 P25 X0 Y-15 Z14.95 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height, increase Z to 0 closer M557 X40:300 Y20:280 S65 ; define mesh grid ; Heaters M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B3950 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0 M307 H0 A172.5 C323.7 D7.5 S1.00 B1 ; enable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0 M143 H0 S100 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 100C M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B3950 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1 M307 H1 A712.3 C215.8 D8.8 S1.00 B0 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit ; Fans M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency M106 P0 S0 H-1 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency M106 P1 S1 H1 T45 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned on ; Tools M563 P0 D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0 G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C ; Custom settings are not defined ; Miscellaneous M575 P1 S1 B57600 ; enable support for PanelDue M501 ; load saved parameters from non-volatile memory M911 S10 R11 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" ; set voltage thresholds and actions to run on power loss T0 ; select first tool
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RE: Bad printing quality for unknown reason
@Veti Seems like its not a temperature issue
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RE: Bad printing quality for unknown reason
I slowed down the printing speed to 30mm/s and on one side it printed almost the same, smaller blobs. On the other side, though, it printed with minimal blobs and shows pretty clean lines. I'm tempted to blame the feeder... its a knock-off dual drive feeder and I had to rebuild it like 10 times to make it smooth. My friend also said it could be the hotend which is a v6 clone. What do you think?
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RE: Bad printing quality for unknown reason
@brotherchris Nope, I have the extruder and material set to 1.75mm.
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RE: Bad printing quality for unknown reason
@Veti I think it printed better but it still has the weird lines artifact. Printing a benchy now.
EDIT: Benchy failed but same story.