I'm posting this in hopes someone else will learn from my trials.

I have a home designed and built Prusa i3 derivative using aluminum extrusions for rigidity. As such, it has dual Z motors.

I had been trying to get the auto dual Z leveling working and just kept getting errors or each time I tried, the bed would get more out of level. I disabled it for a while in frustration.

Tonight, I went back to look at it again. Same results. The bed would just get more unlevel every time. I was just sitting staring at it and it finally hit me what was wrong. My dual Z motors are run off separate drivers (Drivers 2 and 4), not ganged together in the dual Z plug (Drivers 2 and B). When I built it, I paid no attention to which motor was in 2 and which was in 4. Many of you will just say "DUH!" but, again, I'm hoping this helps someone out. I had them reversed between 2 and 4. The software was working but sending the correction to the opposite motor, therefore making it worse. Face palm. I reversed them and all is well now and auto Z leveling works great.

I've looked around the online documentation and did a search of the forum but can't find the answer to this. What does the "Enable Auto-Sleep" function do?

Thanks

Found the files from Duet. I was in the instructions and found you have to click on the "kit" instructions. They are in there. I'll print out the factory version and go from there using the dimensions there.

Thanks. Maybe I can figure out how to have it turn itself off.

@jay_s_uk said in Toolboard 1LC connectors and tool?:

@SpeedyDad https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Parts#connectors-used-on-duet-3-toolboard-1lc

Ya know, I read that area and it just didn't communicate to my brain. LOL. Thanks.

I actually figured out my problem. I have a couple crimping tools I use for RC stuff (servo wires, etc). Nice ratcheting ones. When I would crimp the wire, the wire would break where the insulation was crimped. After looking at it, I found the long legs of the connector itself that are supposed to crimp the wire insulation was curling in on itself and cutting the wire. My remedy was to cut the little legs shorter. No problems now.

I actually figured out my problem. I have a couple crimping tools I use for RC stuff (servo wires, etc). Nice ratcheting ones. When I would crimp the wire, the wire would break where the insulation was crimped. After looking at it, I found the long legs of the connector itself that are supposed to crimp the wire insulation was curling in on itself and cutting the wire. My remedy was to cut the little legs shorter. No problems now.

@dc42 said in Toolboard 1LC connectors and tool?:

@SpeedyDad Engineer PA09 tool works well for me.

Thanks David

@jay_s_uk said in Toolboard 1LC connectors and tool?:

@SpeedyDad https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Parts#connectors-used-on-duet-3-toolboard-1lc

Ya know, I read that area and it just didn't communicate to my brain. LOL. Thanks.

@Herve_Smith said in Duet 3 Mini 5+ no 24v on OUT 1 2 5 6:

@SpeedyDad said in Duet 3 Mini 5+ no 24v on OUT 1 2 5 6:

@Herve_Smith said in Duet 3 Mini 5+ no 24v on OUT 1 2 5 6:

@SpeedyDad said in Duet 3 Mini 5+ no 24v on OUT 1 2 5 6:

OK, sorry for being a noob but how do I "switch" the negative pin on? I've looked through the documentation but must have missed it.

I tried the M950 followed by the M106 but get "Error: Pin 'out5' is not free"

looks like you are attempting to control a fan, if so This documentation should help you

Yes, I know that. That's where I got the info to use M950 and M106 as stated above

then please show the EXACT code you have created from reading that so we can see what you have done.

Pretty much copy/pasted the lines from the connecting a fan page and substituted my fan number and the pin number.

M950 F2 C"out5" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin out3 and set its frequency
M106 P2 S0 H-1 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off

What are the tiny connectors (the metal part of the connector) used in the Toolboard and what crimp tool do I need for them? The one I use of the connectors for the Duet mainboard don't seem to work. I have tried two different ones. I'll probably need to buy new connectors to replace the ones I screwed up.

@droftarts said in Duet 3 Mini 5+ Dual Z homing not working:

@SpeedyDad

Both on the "out" pin and GND pin. I had them on the "in" pin first but that made the machine think they were homed before trying.

You can use the ‘out’ pin as an input, but be aware that they are only 3.3V tolerant, ie if you short the endstop to higher voltage (entirely possible), you’ll destroy the main processor on the board! Better to use the ‘in’ pins, which are 30V tolerant. If they were marked as already homed, add a '! to the pin name to invert the logic. Though this means your endstops are NO, not NC.

Oh,, and I'm also getting "Error: bad drive number" noted in console. Related?

Probably because you have commented out the extruder drive in M584, but it still has a drive in the tool definition, M563.

Ian

Ah. Thanks for all that. I'll switch the pins and comment out the extruder.

@Herve_Smith said in Duet 3 Mini 5+ no 24v on OUT 1 2 5 6:

@SpeedyDad said in Duet 3 Mini 5+ no 24v on OUT 1 2 5 6:

OK, sorry for being a noob but how do I "switch" the negative pin on? I've looked through the documentation but must have missed it.

I tried the M950 followed by the M106 but get "Error: Pin 'out5' is not free"

looks like you are attempting to control a fan, if so This documentation should help you

Yes, I know that. That's where I got the info to use M950 and M106 as stated above

@SpeedyDad Success!!! The key to getting the second endstop working was that pin io4.out does not work for an endstop. There is an * that says *o4.out shared with pson. I guess that disables it? Anyways, I put my Y endstop on 4 and my 2nd Z endstop on 2. Works fine now.

@gloomyandy said in Duet 3 Mini 5+ no 24v on OUT 1 2 5 6:

@SpeedyDad The negative side of those connectors are switched so will be floating if you have not programmed them to be on. If you want to check for a +ve voltage on the out +ve pin use the main board gnd for the -ve side of your multimeter.

OK, sorry for being a noob but how do I "switch" the negative pin on? I've looked through the documentation but must have missed it.

I tried the M950 followed by the M106 but get "Error: Pin 'out5' is not free"

@SpeedyDad UPDATE: I mucked around in my homez.g file and changed it a bit. I now have it trying to home both Z motors. They go "down" and the left motor stops when the left endstop is triggered but the right motor keeps going until it reaches its target location. The right endstop appears to be doing nothing.

Another data point. If I do a M119 with just the left or right endstop triggered, it says "not stopped". If I run M119 with both triggered, it says at max stop as it should.

Here is my homez.g file
; homez.g
; called to home the Z axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Thu Apr 13 2017 15:10:04 GMT-0700 (MST)
; Lift Z relatively to current position
G91
G1 Z5 F6000 H2

; Dual Z Homing
M584 Z0.2:0.3
G1 H1 Z450

; Back to absolute positioning
G90

; Tell the firmware where we are
G92 Z409.45

G0 Z395