Fast printing speeds is an exciting and apparently sensitive topic, but we need more discussions like this, hopefully without anybody getting upset.

I do not have a supervolcano, but I can share some of my volcano data.

Max extrusion rate @235 C Volcano PETG
Brass 0.6mm - 24 mm3/s
CHT 0.6 - 29mm3/s not 11x, but it is what I would expect.

I tend to print a lot hotter, so @270 C Volcano PETG
Hardened steel 0.4mm nozzle - 29mm3/s
Brass 0.6 - 36mm3/s
CHT 0.6 - 43mm3/s at about 95% underxtrusion.

Well, my results do not show a whole lot of improvement on volcano, I can definitely see that not far beyond the rates above I get cold filament coming out (temp is OK), so there is a substantial thermal resistance between the nozzle inside and the copper block, so this is work in progress for me.

Perhaps, as it has been mentioned, PETG is just not going to print as fast as PLA.

@sandmaker said in Not able to connect to wifi after printer working for 3 months.:

I checked the router logs as well it's still the same ip address that I had before the print failed.

So the router says that the Duet is connected, but you cannot reach the web interface? Did you try pinging the Duet? Did you check the signal strength or interference in the new room? Maybe try changing the channel.
I assume that you have already tried to reboot the router.

@tecno get an access point or a second router to act as an access point which will connect the Duet to WiFi.

Use a wifi router is probably the easiest way. Connect nuc to wifi connect Duet to Eth.

Fast printing speeds is an exciting and apparently sensitive topic, but we need more discussions like this, hopefully without anybody getting upset.

I do not have a supervolcano, but I can share some of my volcano data.

Max extrusion rate @235 C Volcano PETG
Brass 0.6mm - 24 mm3/s
CHT 0.6 - 29mm3/s not 11x, but it is what I would expect.

I tend to print a lot hotter, so @270 C Volcano PETG
Hardened steel 0.4mm nozzle - 29mm3/s
Brass 0.6 - 36mm3/s
CHT 0.6 - 43mm3/s at about 95% underxtrusion.

Well, my results do not show a whole lot of improvement on volcano, I can definitely see that not far beyond the rates above I get cold filament coming out (temp is OK), so there is a substantial thermal resistance between the nozzle inside and the copper block, so this is work in progress for me.

Perhaps, as it has been mentioned, PETG is just not going to print as fast as PLA.

I am very happy with 3.5b2 so far, but suddenly, I've realized that I have the same issue on the mini5 Ethernet. I have to reboot the board to reconnect DWC.

I'll do some more tests later tonight if I have a chance.

Thanks Haydn!
I have recently purchased an effector with a set of arms, and my biggest issue was the thread diameter. On the old set threads measured anywhere from 2.88 to 2.57(!). Holes in the effector are 2.9, so there was a lot of play. On the new batch, I was able to select balls that were close to 2.9. With a new set, I am able to get to calibration tolerances everyone reporting here. However, I attribute this mostly to using the Smart Effector vs mini IR. I have used TrickLaser arms/effector before, which I believe were pretty good, but not compatible with the Smart Effector.

Thanks for your support and continuing improvement of the product!

Check this out https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Setting_motor_currents Most people do not need to run their steppers at full current, but if you do, and it runs too hot, I would explore some cooling solutions.

It seems that you need to follow procedures for upgrading firmware from v 1.19 and earlier from here https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Installing_and_Updating_Firmware#main I had to do this myself recently and it took time to read through everything and follow all steps. For my upgrade, I have taken out the SD card and mounted it on PC, which allowed me easily copy paste files. I think WebControl files unzipped go into /www folder. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the reply David. I have seen that matching sets will be available, but that brings me back to the point of the increased cost (effector+arms+carriages+new E3D = $$$). Obviously, precision of the build is not easy to achieve, but not everyone will want to get the complete set. While it is possible to attach the PCB to an existing effector, this will probably involve some drilling/cutting which is more time and a room for error. I am just worried that there won't be enough space, dimensions would not match, or I could not drill straight. I believe that having more mounting options out of the box could be good for sales too. I am sure that your design will be great, but my choice will be trying the effector first.

David, this is awesome! Although I like my IR sensor, it has its limitations, and the contact solution like this would be great. However, I have a question. How this will accommodate existing mounting for arms? It does not look like the PCB has a lot of space to mount something like Rostock ball-cup attachments or u-joints, unless they are mounted on posts. The problem with switching arms is that it would also require switching (or adjusting) attachements on the carriage side, or possibly changing carriages. While this may be ideal for some people (as you have noted you have eliminated the tilt buy changing the arms/carriages), it does add to the total cost of the solution, as well as the time involved.

As for the weight of the PCB vs Al effector, I wouldn't think that a PCB is necessary lighter than Al plate such as http://713maker.com/effector.html or a similar from http://tricklaser.com. The 713 effector (without a mount) weighs in at about 10g and Rostock ball-cup plastic effector (without a mount) about 13g. Sure, there is an added weight of the mount, and PCB-only plate might be lighter, but I do not think it is really that important here, as the weight of E3D extruder is about 50-80g or even more for some models.

Regardless of the weights, I would propose separating the effector from the mount part. This way, people will be still able to use their current effectors/arms/carriages/rails without modification. I understand that it will require additional work for you, but it would save a lot of work and money for those who are not ready to buy the whole set. -Thanks.