@sandmaker said in Not able to connect to wifi after printer working for 3 months.:
I checked the router logs as well it's still the same ip address that I had before the print failed.
So the router says that the Duet is connected, but you cannot reach the web interface? Did you try pinging the Duet? Did you check the signal strength or interference in the new room? Maybe try changing the channel.
I assume that you have already tried to reboot the router.
@tecno get an access point or a second router to act as an access point which will connect the Duet to WiFi.
Use a wifi router is probably the easiest way. Connect nuc to wifi connect Duet to Eth.
Fast printing speeds is an exciting and apparently sensitive topic, but we need more discussions like this, hopefully without anybody getting upset.
I do not have a supervolcano, but I can share some of my volcano data.
Max extrusion rate @235 C Volcano PETG
Brass 0.6mm - 24 mm3/s
CHT 0.6 - 29mm3/s not 11x, but it is what I would expect.
I tend to print a lot hotter, so @270 C Volcano PETG
Hardened steel 0.4mm nozzle - 29mm3/s
Brass 0.6 - 36mm3/s
CHT 0.6 - 43mm3/s at about 95% underxtrusion.
Well, my results do not show a whole lot of improvement on volcano, I can definitely see that not far beyond the rates above I get cold filament coming out (temp is OK), so there is a substantial thermal resistance between the nozzle inside and the copper block, so this is work in progress for me.
Perhaps, as it has been mentioned, PETG is just not going to print as fast as PLA.
I am very happy with 3.5b2 so far, but suddenly, I've realized that I have the same issue on the mini5 Ethernet. I have to reboot the board to reconnect DWC.
I'll do some more tests later tonight if I have a chance.
Thanks Haydn!
I have recently purchased an effector with a set of arms, and my biggest issue was the thread diameter. On the old set threads measured anywhere from 2.88 to 2.57(!). Holes in the effector are 2.9, so there was a lot of play. On the new batch, I was able to select balls that were close to 2.9. With a new set, I am able to get to calibration tolerances everyone reporting here. However, I attribute this mostly to using the Smart Effector vs mini IR. I have used TrickLaser arms/effector before, which I believe were pretty good, but not compatible with the Smart Effector.
Thanks for your support and continuing improvement of the product!
Check this out https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Setting_motor_currents Most people do not need to run their steppers at full current, but if you do, and it runs too hot, I would explore some cooling solutions.
It seems that you need to follow procedures for upgrading firmware from v 1.19 and earlier from here https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Installing_and_Updating_Firmware#main I had to do this myself recently and it took time to read through everything and follow all steps. For my upgrade, I have taken out the SD card and mounted it on PC, which allowed me easily copy paste files. I think WebControl files unzipped go into /www folder. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the reply David. I have seen that matching sets will be available, but that brings me back to the point of the increased cost (effector+arms+carriages+new E3D = $$$). Obviously, precision of the build is not easy to achieve, but not everyone will want to get the complete set. While it is possible to attach the PCB to an existing effector, this will probably involve some drilling/cutting which is more time and a room for error. I am just worried that there won't be enough space, dimensions would not match, or I could not drill straight. I believe that having more mounting options out of the box could be good for sales too. I am sure that your design will be great, but my choice will be trying the effector first.
David, this is awesome! Although I like my IR sensor, it has its limitations, and the contact solution like this would be great. However, I have a question. How this will accommodate existing mounting for arms? It does not look like the PCB has a lot of space to mount something like Rostock ball-cup attachments or u-joints, unless they are mounted on posts. The problem with switching arms is that it would also require switching (or adjusting) attachements on the carriage side, or possibly changing carriages. While this may be ideal for some people (as you have noted you have eliminated the tilt buy changing the arms/carriages), it does add to the total cost of the solution, as well as the time involved.
As for the weight of the PCB vs Al effector, I wouldn't think that a PCB is necessary lighter than Al plate such as http://713maker.com/effector.html or a similar from http://tricklaser.com. The 713 effector (without a mount) weighs in at about 10g and Rostock ball-cup plastic effector (without a mount) about 13g. Sure, there is an added weight of the mount, and PCB-only plate might be lighter, but I do not think it is really that important here, as the weight of E3D extruder is about 50-80g or even more for some models.
Regardless of the weights, I would propose separating the effector from the mount part. This way, people will be still able to use their current effectors/arms/carriages/rails without modification. I understand that it will require additional work for you, but it would save a lot of work and money for those who are not ready to buy the whole set. -Thanks.
I am a little confused. Everyone is talking about FW 1.17RC3, but there is also FW 1.17 in the "Stable" folder. I did not see an official release announcement, so which version is the current or the latest? -Thanks!
Just to be clear, Z offset in S3D you are seeing has nothing to do with the Z offset for the z-probe specified in the config file for Duet. You can set global z-offset in s3d, if needed. However, I guess that you are trying to print with 0.3mm layer, and the 1st layer height is set to 90%, which would give you 0.3-0.03=0.27mm layer height for the 1st layer. The idea for this is to increase adhesion to the bed. The setting is found in the "Layer" tab.
Hi Kevin,
In regards to g-code commands, http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code is the place to look for current descriptions. However, I agree that understanding what some commands really do and how to use them in a particular case may require some experimentation and digging around.
This is somewhat minor, but I do not think this was discussed yet. Although this require some PCB redesign, I think it would be nice to see in the future. When the torque is applied while attaching wires to the terminal, they move around, which could be prevented if they were installed a little deeper into the PCB. This concerns the main power connector, bead heater, and extruder heaters.
Thanks.
It is possible that you have several issues going on. For my first print, I have used one of the files, which was already on the sd card. I have selected the gcode file and clicked "Print," which did what it supposed to do. Uploading is different from printing, and could fail for any number of reasons, such as wifi errors.
The whole process is looks like that: 1. Slice your file. 2. Upload your gcode file (not the STL). 3. Click print (which would usually home the printer and wait for the temps to stabilize, this is specified in the slicer).
Which step are you having the trouble? If you accidentally upload stl instead of gcode,, and then try to print it, nothing would happen, as far as I remember, not even an error message show up.
I hope this helps.
Thank you! Awesome! I hope that 1.17 will come just as fast:) Update went without a hitch! By the way does it make a difference which firmware should be uploaded first?
The figure you put in config.g is the peak current per phase that the drivers will deliver to the motors.
Thanks for the clarification. That removes any doubts.
I had been struggling with bed flatness on 310mm round Rostock MV2 bed. I have ended up removing the PCB Onyx heater, the melamine support, and mounting a flat 1/4 inch Al plate directly (with spacers and heat shield under the heater) to the base at 3 points. My previous (stock) setup was warped, and it was making the boro glass to warp too. However, it seems that the boro glass has become flat again after sitting free for a couple of days. Currently, I am using PEI over the boro glass on the top of 1/4inch Mic6 Al. Although my bed may not be absolutely flat, it is a great improvement over what was going on before. After 13-point calibration with the mini IR, the bed leveling reports error of around 0.005mm vs over 0.1mm before. Applying the adhesive to the glass was certainly tricky, and I had to start over several times. Applying 0.8mm PEI was easy.
In my experience a 3 to 6 mm thick glass will conform, at least to a degree, to a surface under it, so if the bed has a dome in the middle, the glass will warp in the center
Great news, and thank you for getting the release candidate out! How is this different from the betas? I have been using beta10 with no problems.