Topics created by Woelkchen

Put a sensible guess as to the steps/mm. Almost anything will do, as long as material comes out of the nozzle at a reasonable rate when you command the extruder to move.

Test how many "commanded mm" it takes to output say 100mm of material.

Refine your steps/mm according to the standard extruder calibration methods, e.g.

New steps/mm = Old steps/mm x 100 / measured material extruded

There is a fair amount of guesswork, as you need to take things like stretching of the filament due to gravity and die swell into account but it shouldn't take too long to refine a useful number. If you then set your "filament" diameter to your nozzle diameter in the slicer then everything should work out, shouldn't it?

On the Duets, you get endstop inputs connectors for X, Y, Z, E0 and E1 (thus 5 in total), which can be used and repurposed as needed. So as long as you don't need more than 5, it is simple - for more than 5, you will need a small breakout board (which you can perhaps create yourself if yours needs are simple) that will take the endstop pins from the big connector/header and get it in an easier to use layout (for example breaking out those endstop pins along with a Ground as separate connectors to use).

Using a probe and Zmax is also a little easier.

My D5S Mini came with both Zmin and Zmax endstops. Even before upgrading to the Duet I removed the Zmax. The idea is simple: if your slicer is correctly set up, it should not be able to send you any Gcode movements outside of the printer's capabilities. Therefore a Zmax would not be triggered if Zmin is the main Homing endstop. If using a probe which may not always trigger at the same location, you should account for a safety factor. My opinion is that if a print goes to where the Zmax is (or where it needs to trigger to prevent printer damage), then the printed object was too big for the printer - and the print will fail regardless (Z will no longer move).

Please can you connect a PC running YAT or Pronterface etc. to the Duet via USB. When you lose the connection, run these two commands from the PC:

M552
M122

The first should tell you whether you are connected or not and what the IP address is. The second will produce a diagnostic report.

Most routers can be instructed to always allocate the same IP address to a particular device when it connects.

The FAULT LED illuminated means that the chip on the daughter board was unable to read the thermocouple.

What type of thermocouple are you using?

Thermocouples must be insulated from any metal parts whose temperatures they are measuring. The thermocouple cartridges that E3D sells have insulation between the thermocouple junction and the outer casing, so they should work OK. Many other types of thermocouple don't have any insulation, just a bare junction.

Another possible source of problems is the wring. Thermocouples are normally supplied with twisted pair wires, and these must be used right up to the daughter board. Using twisted pair wire minimises interference pickup by induction.

The FAULT LED will also light up if the thermocouple is disconnected or broken.

HTH David