I have noticed with that print, that too high of bed temps can creep up, this makes the material softer and more prone to curling up then squishing out.
Judging by the base, it looks like it's a little too hot, or your layer height is a little too close to the bed.
The ripple you talk of could be over-extrusion, filament variation or Z axis rounding errors or slight binding. What stepper/lead screw do you use?
Also how many shells did you use?
Well I'll be damned.
Prosumer no doubt, they are going to ask a fortune for those things.
(Pause)
M83 ; relative extruder moves
G1 E-10 F3600 ; retract 10mm of filament
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F360 ; lift Z by 5mm
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y0 F6000 ; go to X=0 Y=0
(Resume)
G1 R1 X0 Y0 Z5 F6000 ; go to 5mm above position of the last print move
G1 R1 X0 Y0 ; go back to the last print move
M83 ; relative extruder moves
G1 E10 F3600 ; extrude 10mm of filament
That is mine, which should function close to what yours is doing, except I extrude after resume positioning , not before.
What type of printer do you have? is your Z axis binding?
I MIG weld on an off at my job.
As others said, seriously nasty crap comes off of hot metal, there will most likely never be a open source-consumer grade product... ever.
Ever set steel wool on fire? yeah, metal goes up pretty violently in powder or wool form.
I attempted a poly tower, but it ended up poorly because the slicer can only handle even numbers, so I had to print two shells and that kept the heat too close.
Normally I print that model with one shell.
@dc42
Thanks, I will try it out, it's an older unit, but startup is only a split second.
I'm using super thin PEI sheet directly on the ATP-5 plate, but my main concern was EMF getting back to the duet or scrambling up the WiFi signal.
I have a small florescent light tube that would be a perfect fit for my FT-5, I could easily hook it into the mains just like I did the PSU muffin fan.
I understand this lighting can throw off the IR sensor (I don't have/ need one) and they can throw off some EMF.
Has anyone used one of these, if so did it cause any issues? the whole frame is grounded through the PSU due to it's ACM/alloy construction.
Holy crap 9K? Such a shame they used a inferior board for a commercial grade machine that weighs 275lbs.
I really like the belt mechanisms in that thing,
Basic cuboid Cartesians are nice because they are very simple and accurate, especially when you have a huge steel box to mount the axes to.
Oh yeah, It's bigger than I thought!
The steppers in there look teeny tiny!
Finally got it going, kinda.
My start script doesn't work, it goes through the motions then starts with parts cooling fan full speed and both heaters inoperative ?
Anyway, manually setting the temps I have some really nice results! .2 layers,2 shells 10% infill, no gaps, the best one of these I've printed to date.
Many of these prints fail where the arms connect to the body or at the last 1/4 of the wings, you can see when the G-code file places an extra partial wall in these places.
The only flaws are very very slight over extrusion in a couple places of the neck- only visible under overhead lighting and a little overheating at the back sides of the wings, but that comes down to settings.
Oh, printed at 80mm/s .2mm Z-hop
My Qidi Xone-2 weighs about 35lbs, and it's got a print area of 140x140x140!
I would guess 80lbs or more.
Try printing circles in multiple spots on the bed just to see if it is consistent.
There are no moving Stepper motors are there?
There are two times I had jittering, once was a broken stepper wire, once was when I had stepper amps too low on accident.
If you can see if it is related to one or all axes that would be great (the jittering).
Another thought, make certain that all your stepper pulley grub screws are tight and in the flats of the shafts.
Remove the fuse, go from one terminal to the end of the lead and ohm it, do this for the other side and then ohm the entire length with the fuse installed.
Each joint in a wire should be no more than .1 ohms per connection, so you technically have 4 connections in that fuse holder, two on each leg so a possible drop of .4 ohms.
If you have a considerable difference between one leg slot and the other, it would indicate a bad connection, though if it is only warm to the touch, you should be fine, fuse filaments are thin and will generate a little bit of heat.
Cool, just a thought, for a cheaper and more accessible part, you could pause close to the end of the print and put in steel or lead shot.
Very cool, I think it is a delta only function as delta can control Z axis at a high rate of speed.
It would provide very strong prints, however, very detailed prints may not turn out very well.
It would be very CPU intensive not only for the printer, but also for the computer (rocking a OC'd 8 core 16 thread Ryzen, and Vega64 so that's not an issue for me).
I think its a few years away for consumer grade printers.
Looking at it so far, preparing my first test print a "singing serpent" which is a good model to test overhangs, stringing and rounded geometry- the wings are delicate, so if there is over or over extrusion, they often snap off or show blobbing
Looking at the dynamic fan control, looks interesting, trying to configure it, I'ts a great idea when you need a blast of air to get good bridges, and dial it back for better adhesion.
OH.
It just crashed.
Not going to lie, that sounds pretty cool!
Thanks, I will try again.
I used hair-spray and it helped, but I am so glad I haven't seen any cracking or warping issues, and the best part is parts seem to be 100% accurate, a 20x20 cube comes out at exactly 20x20.
That FilamentOne place was fast as hell to get it out to me, ordered Saturday, got it Monday!
I have suspicions it's made by Filimentium, same reel design, and the company used to sell that brand.
Going to re-print my cooling duct since the one I have now is a rough mess- $9 glow in the dark ABS on ebay gets you $9 quality.