486MP Adhesive Removal
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That's just an old wives tale.
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I had to double check the date ..
But damn, it sounds a lot healthier than soaking the board in acetone for a few minutes before scraping it off and several rounds of wiping the last bits off with more acetone.
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mmmmmmm .... acetone smell .... I LOVE modern chemistry and all the wonders it can supply
Goes together nicely with any kind of hot filament smell!
Peanut butter is better used for rat traps around here. The buggers just can't resist it -
I have found that gel-type paint stripper removes the adhesive pretty thoroughly and easily. I brush it on and let it sit in a closed plastic box for a few hours, then use a plastic scraper to clean off the plate. A final wipe down with acetone cleans up whatever's left.
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@mrehorstdmd said in 486MP Adhesive Removal:
gel-type paint stripper
that might be a good one; any idea how it interacts with PCBs for those who have PCB based heaters?
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I've been pranked.
Didn't do a damn thing except waste a couple of bucks worth of peanut butter.I have stripper, acetone, xylene, MEK, GooGone, etc. but it was snowing yesterday and I didn't want to fill my place with flammable and unhealthy fumes.
Ah well. Maybe the trick only works on glass.
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I used peanut butter to remove adhesive from my cast bed a few weeks ago and it did work for me.
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D-Limonene, Iso-Propyl-Alcohol (IPA), or Evo-Stik Adhesive cleaner, take your pick....
Leave any of these to soak into the adhesive, the gently scrape with a plastic scraper
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@gtj0 said in 486MP Adhesive Removal:
I've been pranked
@bearer said in 486MP Adhesive Removal:
I had to double check the date ..
Thanks for sharing; I'll be sitting here in isolation grinning all evening.
Back on topic; Isopropanol didn't do much for me, had to break out the acetone to make any timely progress.
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This is a worthwhile read how to remove 3M468 and re-attach a silicon heater
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@Dr_Ju_Ju said in 486MP Adhesive Removal:
D-Limonene, Iso-Propyl-Alcohol (IPA), or Evo-Stik Adhesive cleaner, take your pick....
Leave any of these to soak into the adhesive, the gently scrape with a plastic scraper
The IPA didn't do anything for me either but I'm going to give D-Limonene/Orange Oil a try. As I said, I've got plenty of chemicals that will do the job but I wanted a healthier/safer alternative.
@Dougal1957 said in 486MP Adhesive Removal:
This is a worthwhile read how to remove 3M468 and re-attach a silicon heater
That a good article for removing the heater because the fishing line slips between the heater pad and the bed. I'll have to remember it. With just adhesive though, it doesn't work very well.
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@Dougal1957 I wouldn't recommend reattaching a silicone heater using 468MP. Use high temperature silicone instead. It won't let go of the heater or the plate. This is what happens when 468MP lets go:
You can buy a tube of high temperature silicone at any auto parts store for about $5. It's worth it not to have to clean 468MP off the plate again.
The 468MP will let go of PEI after a year or two of use, too, but I wouldn't try to use silicone to glue it down because you'll never get the PEI surface to be flat.
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@mrehorstdmd The Keenovo article @Dougal1957 linked does say to use high-temp RTV to re-attach.
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I've just gone away from stick down PEI sheets, as they are a pain in the butt when trying to fix it to a 320x320 mm cast Aluminium sheet....
Instead I've gone for a "Two Trees" 310x310 mm magnetic removable spring steel, pei sheet... much much easier to work with, & when hot PETg sticks well, just have see how long it holds for.
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@mrehorstdmd Mark yes I am aware of that and in fact I do need to order a new silicone heater for a build and it will be requested without 3M Adhesive
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In order to clean things, you need to consider the solubility of the stuff you want to remove.
For example, I used glue stick on my bed. To remove it I tried IPA first, didn't work. Then I tried acetone which didn't work either. In the end it was water that cleaned it up.
I suggest to try water first, then a mix of water and IPA (yes, mixing IPA with water can also make a big difference), and as a last step acetone. Soap water can also be helpful in some cases. If all of that doesn't work, try superacids
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Well, I'm now ready for my next career... McDonald's Griddle Scraper.
In the end it was this stuff that did it...
I heated the bed to 45C, spread this stuff on half the bed and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then I used a plastic scraper to lift the adhesive and transport the whole mess to the other side of the bed. Another 10 minutes and all the heavy stuff slid right off. I then used some of the Orange-Sol stuff to clean up the residue. Then denatured alcohol to clean that residue. Given the time it took, it'd have been cheaper for me to shell out another $180 for a 500x500x6 piece of MIC6.
I'll never eat another peanut butter and jelly sandwich again.
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This is a business opportunity for 3M. Selling an official remover.
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@zapta they already do
https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/company-ca/all-3m-products/~/3M-Adhesive-Remover-6041-pale-yellow-24-oz-709-77-ml-/?N=5002385+8709332+8710676+8710815+8712986+8713605+3293795722&preselect=8709320+3293786499+3294529206&rt=rud&utm_term=sibg-iatd-na-en_ca-ba-2020-product-search-en-cpc-google-na-learn-na-jan20 -
@gtj0 $180???? !!!!
If you live near Milwaukee or Minneapolis, Howard Precision Metals sells cut-offs for scrap price- usually <$2/lb. The 8mm MIC6 piece that became the bed in my printer cost $15 or 18.
