ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade
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if the oven temp is stable then it should work if left long enough for temperature to equalize on the board and oven; i prefer to use water with crushed ice and boiling water for a 2 point calibration as its more stable and water conducts the temperature better than air (but water does have its own challenges)
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Also as you'll tweak the print profile it doesn't matter if you print at 210 or 215 as long as you get consistent results - i.e. precision is more important than accuracy unless running a print farm.
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@bearer said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
Also as you'll tweak the print profile it doesn't matter if you print at 210 or 215 as long as you get consistent results - i.e. precision is more important than accuracy unless running a print farm.
That's a good point. It will be run as a lone printer.
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@Blacksheep99 said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
I have an infrared thermometer gun (for the pizza oven). How about in the oven and use that to read the surface temp of it?
that will work for the bed, but for the hotend there will be a temperature difference between the nozzle and the surface.
maybe its possible to replace the thermistor with a known one. thats why i asked for a picture.
@bearer said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
Also as you'll tweak the print profile it doesn't matter if you print at 210 or 215 as long as you get consistent results - i.e. precision is more important than accuracy unless running a print farm.
yes the problem is that the difference between a semitec 104gt2 and a b3950 setting is more than 20C at 200C
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@Veti said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
@Blacksheep99 said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
I have an infrared thermometer gun (for the pizza oven). How about in the oven and use that to read the surface temp of it?
that will work for the bed, but for the hotend there will be a temperature difference between the nozzle and the surface.
maybe its possible to replace the thermistor with a known one. thats why i asked for a picture.
@bearer said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
Also as you'll tweak the print profile it doesn't matter if you print at 210 or 215 as long as you get consistent results - i.e. precision is more important than accuracy unless running a print farm.yes the problem is that the difference between a semitec 104gt2 and a b3950 setting is more than 20C at 200C
I'll take the hotend out tonight and see if it can be ID'd.
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Not sure these help?
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The endstop/probe. 12v, is that an issue?
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It could just be a simple microswitch that is rated to handle 12 volts in which case it won't matter if you only use 3.3 volts. You'll need to just use an ohm meter on the wire ends to see if it that style switch. If it only has two wires I would suspect it's just a normal microswitch.
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@JamesM said in ST3Di Modelsmart 280 - Duet Maestro repair/upgrade:
It could just be a simple microswitch that is rated to handle 12 volts in which case it won't matter if you only use 3.3 volts. You'll need to just use an ohm meter on the wire ends to see if it that style switch. If it only has two wires I would suspect it's just a normal microswitch.
Thanks. I would think/hope you're right.
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Is the thermistor the white sleeved wirng or the red fiberglass insulated wiring? i'd guess the latter as the heater appears to be a cartridge poking out the other end.
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@bearer Sorry, it's the red wiring. The white ones are attached to the cartridge.
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Thats what I thought but the pictures seemed focused on the white wiring, I guess its hard to get a good angle on the thermistor then?
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@bearer It's not too easy especially with the double print head. I'll try again now. I may take one apart if that would be helpful.
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If the wires just disappear into some black goo like the heater then i doubt we can identify them visually. But given the construction, a glass bead ntc is the most likely candidate if you want to replace it - but if the mounting is just some sort of adhesive or not idk.
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Pretty much
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well you can try your ir thermometer to see if the temperature is close
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@Veti On the heater block? As in wire up to the board and heat to 220? measure resistance ....
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sorry i was under the impression you had an ir thermometer
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@Veti I have one of these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01AT9TON0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So heat in the oven and then if it measures 220 check resistance. Sorry if I'm been dense
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unless you have an all metal hotend, go for 200
let it stay at that for a min or so and measure the temperature on the nozzle with the ir thermometer.
