What would you build if you were starting again now?
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@paulhew said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
@zapta I hate the gantry. 'U' shaped. Personally I think there is tooo much happening with it.
Agreed.
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@paulhew said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
And Klipper. I updated it and Klipper threw a its rattle out of the pram.
I am not sure if V2.4 requires Klipper or any specific hardware. For example, Youtube Tom built recently a V2.4 with a duet.
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@droftarts said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
@o_lampe said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
a # hash-style printer
I guess you mean https://youtu.be/tzf8903FvCs
Looks interesting!Ian
Exactly,
it's a bit of 'hen or egg' problem regarding slicers and firmware, but RRF kinematic model is already working. Until then it's a single object quad-color printer with very quick toolchanging. My macro for ooze compensation based on standby time has already prooven to work.
I'd build it with 'anti-racking constraints' instead of the classic 'shaft & dual belt' approach shown in the video. -
@zapta Voron2.1 you had 2 options, RAMPs on Arduino boards and a Pi or Duet2/Duex5, from the BOM and there were baseline configs for both.
The BOM now states, SKRs and a Pi and there is a baseline only for Klipper.
Within the Voron Discord, there is a Duet_RRF group, still.My V0.1 is running a Mini5+ with RRF.
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oh boy you have all given me lots to think about...
one of my biggest regrets was when I bought my CR-10 I think the chap was emigrating and was also selling his Delta with Duet. I offered him more than it eventually sold for but he wanted to let it run on Ebay and I missed the end of the auction.
probably would have still been cheaper than what I ended up spending to get my printer where it is now and I suspect it was a very nice machine but I was more than a bit daunted by it.
that hash design is interesting and perhaps a reason to go with a croXY style as it would potentially be adaptable.
lots to think about and I am not looking to build just yet so off to read all I can on DC42's Delta
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@opentoideas said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
that hash design is interesting and perhaps a reason to go with a croXY style as it would potentially be adaptable.
Just started to play with some ideas to build mine
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@opentoideas said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
lots to think about and I am not looking to build just yet so off to read all I can on DC42's Delta
The details are at https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/dc42s-large-kossel-build/. These days I would choose a Duet 3 Mini to control it.
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@dc42 said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
@opentoideas said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
lots to think about and I am not looking to build just yet so off to read all I can on DC42's Delta
The details are at https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/dc42s-large-kossel-build/. These days I would choose a Duet 3 Mini to control it.
Are large delta's easier to get working well than the mini's?
I built three different mini's and was never happy with the print quality after I built my first Cartesian.
Frederick
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All deltas need to be constructed with precise geometry. Cheap delta kits fail to achieve that.
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@paulhew said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
The BOM now states, SKRs and a Pi and there is a baseline only for Klipper.
I think that the Voron V2.4 crowd is now moving toward a Pi + a single controller with 7+ driver such Spider or Octopus.
The Spider for example is said to be developed with input from the Voron dev team https://wiki.fysetc.com/Spider/ and I think it's supposed to come also with a more capable CPU that is will RRF compatible (more RAM?).
I wish that Duet would have a reasonably price stand alone board with 7+ drivers and WiFi. That would be my first choice for my V2.4 (a work in progress).
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@zapta said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
I wish that Duet would have a reasonably price stand alone board with 7+ drivers and WiFi.
...like the Duet Maestro with 2-channel expansionboard?
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@opentoideas said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
With the knowledge you now have if you were building a new machine what geometry and machine type you build?
I am actually building a new machine, a black and red Voron V2.4 250mm with Clockworks (direct) extruder.
Sources the parts individually per the sourcing guide, which took a while, and the frame and x/y/z movements are already assembled.
I picked the Voron because it has a strong supporting community (I can get answers within seconds on Discord, or watch detailed videos by Nero 3DP) and it's a proven design with 1000+ people that built it. The design is on the overkill side, but I am taking my time and am happy with the results so far, especially with how stiff the x/y carriage is compared to my existing HEVO.
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@o_lampe said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
...like the Duet Maestro with 2-channel expansionboard?
I meant a single board, no expansions, for simplicity, and for avoiding CAN bus based issues.
As for the Maestro, IIRC it has no Wifi and limited MCU that is marginal for the upcoming input shaping.
The Chinese competition, with capable low cost non-clone new boards is becoming strong, and Duet's lead is shifting to better customer support and warranty rather than hardware feature set.
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@zapta I think @o_lampe maybe meant Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi with Mini 2+ expansion board. Also pretty cost-effective (when you factor in documentation, support, community as well) against cheap Chinese boards.
While there is a market for standalone boards with 7+ drivers, it's not a big one. Most machines still only use 4 or 5 drivers. There's also more to go wrong on a larger, integrated PCB, and brick a whole board. There was also more demand for having tool boards rather than monolithic, single wiring point electronics, hence CAN is used now.
Ian
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@zapta said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
I meant a single board, no expansions, for simplicity, and for avoiding CAN bus based issues.
The Duet 3 Mini + 2-driver expansion doesn't use CAN, the expansion is a daughter board.
Whereas the Spider board with 7 drivers is a main board + 7 daughter boards. And it needs a Pi if you want a web interface.
So Duet wins on simplicity.
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I'm not sure what I would rebuilt , but what I know is , Gentleman we can rebuilt it , we have the technology , we make it better , stronger , faster.
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@droftarts said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
Most machines still only use 4 or 5 drivers
A big plus for Deltas here, they only need 3 steppers for the whole motion system, where others use 3 steppers only for Z-axis.
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Delta is tempting my main issue is spending the money on the materials to do it right in the first place which I know is the best way to go but I suspect I will probably end up trying to start with a working machine then upgrade it to (hopefully) make it close to what I want.
I was having a look around and if I got something like an Anycubic Predator it should at least work to start with and it seems to be at least a solid frame. I could then slowly spend the money I should have spent in the first place to make it better. the electronics are rubbish but then seeing as I am here its no surprise how to resolve that problem and then linear rails, rods and smart effector might make it the basis for a good machine in the end...
the biggest problem is the initial outlay. from the Blog DC42 posted while his machine I have no doubt is far superior I cant justify £1k initial outlay but a few hundred then a few hundred more LOL I might get away with sneaking that past the wife!
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@o_lampe said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:
A big plus for Deltas here, they only need 3 steppers for the whole motion system, where others use 3 steppers only for Z-axis.
I can't buy that argument. People might choose to use multiple Z motors but that's a personal choice and a single motor driving multiple screws is a perfectly viable solution, even with a large heavy build plate. So whether it be Cartesian, or CoreXY then 3 motors are perfectly viable for X, Y and Z. My personal preference is CoreXY because for all moves other than 45 degree infill, then both motors contribute to motion. And for those 45 degree moves which use a single motor, there is an increase in available torque due to the gearing effect of the belt path.
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@zapta May I reccomend you use the single MGN12 rail for X, unless you already have, using dual MGN9's were causing a torsion.
The 'clicky' probe as opposed to the inductive, or there is a MGN12 BLT mount for the AfterBurner.I was going to rebuild mine with a 1LC and mini5+ and the expansion board, but lost faith with the gantry.
As I mentioned above, the gantry is doing too much.X/Y/Z on rubber bands!
Hope yours works well.