Ender 3 Pro configuration

baesjerker

Bumping the Y value fixed my issue. I can clearly see that I will need to edit both the X and Y values to make it more precise. Right now it probes a bit more on the front side (x) than back (by back I mean towards the x motor).

NoSkillzEngineer

@baesjerker

You are welcome! I know what it is like to switch to a superior....thing...whatever that may be, software, hardware, programming languages, manufacturing techniques, ect. Only to be limited by the genuine lack of exposure to it and the first couple hours, days, weeks, or months are just deeply disappointing, discouraging, frustrating, and you end up questioning if it was the right decision if it is bad enough.

That is not what people need for additive manufacturing, better OSH, better FOSS, or just in regard to learning in general.

I am sure if you are less busy than I am the next few days, you might get it printing fairly quickly (it is not hard once it homes correctly)

You can try to calibrate it yourself to learn some of the code and whatnot. if you do, keep this code in the back of your mind when you are calibrating extrusion and when you are printing test cubes to verify dimensional accuracy (don't forget there is a big difference between high-resolution and high-precision/accuracy).

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M579_Scale_Cartesian_axes

That along with

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M572_Set_or_report_extruder_pressure_advance

These are two vital codes that make tuning SO MUCH EASIER!

This may very well change but as of right now I have M572 set to

M572 D0 S0.074										; pressure advance

in the bottom of my config.g a few lines above my M501 command.

You want a 123 block is because it is a precise way to set the nozzle height without touching the bed (I do not heat the nozzle, but i clean it thoroughly before I calibrate so I know I am touching metal, not plastic).

No damage to the bed and the calibration is perfect. Just make sure you swap out the springs for solid bed mounts, I got mine at Ace and I would have to get a part number to tell you exactly what it is, but now my bed remains the same height. In the CNC realm, consistency is what you need to achieve repeatable precision.

https://youtu.be/nIjM3FZahjE?t=115

I just use 25.4 mm for my z height because 1.0000" is exactly equal to 25.4 mm, no trailing numbers, no nothing.

If you do this though, add a mm or two or three to either the first layer or subtract a couple from your overall Z height (distance from high-end Z endstop) because it is too close to the bed print normally!

If you do this, incrementally lower the nozzle slowly because that will be 1.0000" to touching the bed, not the few thou high to allow the plastic to come out of the nozzle. If you forget to add a few thousandths of an inch to this, you will damage your bed.

I will keep this post updated but I will be a bit busy over the next three days with the ABB Yumi getting delivered at work tomorrow morning.

baesjerker

Thanks again for a really good reply. I will look into 123 block and swapping out those springs. Looking forward to more replies. I’m going to try to test print something later today.

PaulHew

If you would like to see my settings for my ender3 with a BL Touch for comparison, please let me know.

baesjerker

@paulhew hi. I would love to. Please share.

NoSkillzEngineer

@paulhew said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:

If you would like to see my settings for my ender3 with a BL Touch for comparison, please let me know.

I would be curious what XY offset you are using and what mount you are using, I kinda eye-balled it with my dial caliper.

It is worth noting that my bedmesh and bed.g files are most likely going to change, but it hits the bed right now, so, for now, it is good enough to move onto the next problem.

I would be curious what is different between ours,

PaulHew

Before my last upgrades, these configs are for Ender3 Pro which has a Bullseye duct and its BL Touch Mount, I am also running a Maestro board in my printer and using a PanelDue touch screen. All original hardware.

0_1556009924222_config.g
0_1556009972883_bed.g
0_1556009989340_deployprobe.g
0_1556009998929_homeall.g
0_1556010027421_homex.g
0_1556010036914_homey.g
0_1556010048946_homez.g
0_1556010058346_retractprobe.g

Hope these help!
P.

baesjerker

Ok. So I printed a test cube yesterday. Usually when I printed something with the stock Ender 3 Pro board, the BLTouch would probe the bed before it starts to print, but not this time. The print looked decent, but a little squished in the layers. I need to experiment a bit here. BUT the strangest thing happened when the print finished. The extruder just stopped at the very last point in the very last layer and then the extruder retracted all filament from the nozzle and all the way back to the filament spool.

I think this has to be related to Cura somehow. I’m going to try reprap flavor and some tunings found on this forum.

This is a learning curve, but it’s fun to see progress.

baesjerker

@paulhew great! Thank you!

Veti

since a lot of people are converting their ender 3s it might make sense to include this as a default option in the configurator

PaulHew

@Veti Those configs are for a stock Ender 3 Pro with a BL Touch mounted on these parts.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vS2TxsX-kBR6hmoeuBAtugCa8P2651bOPuQJ76QD8jk-UFWg4FWrNI2Ca36mKzLy2FUOWAu_IpzywLo/pubhtml?gid=1441642341&single=true
BULLSEYE_BASE_CREALITY_9.27
Bullseye_Duct_9.27
ALL_BLT_LEFT_X-48_Y-10_3.29

I was still unsure of the thermistor params, but the ones in the config seemed to work OK.

Regards
Paul.

Veti

ender 3 uses epocs 100k. Marlin Thermistor table 1
see
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/9464/m305-thermistor-values-for-the-duet-maestro-on-the-ender-3-pro/9

PaulHew

Thanks @Veti I used those params in the end, I remember.

baesjerker

Thanks again for sharing your configs. I noticed right away that the heated bed/nozzle did not get hot enough so I kept the stock config here.

M305 P1 T100000 B4138 R4700

I also changed the xy offset to match my bltouch mount because I don't have a bullseye. Even after that it still seems to probe on the outside. I bumped "Y" again and it is probing on the bed again.

I am running a test print again using Slic3r. Checked "Use relative E distances".

Phaedrux

@baesjerker said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:

Ok. So I printed a test cube yesterday. Usually when I printed something with the stock Ender 3 Pro board, the BLTouch would probe the bed before it starts to print, but not this time. The print looked decent, but a little squished in the layers. I need to experiment a bit here. BUT the strangest thing happened when the print finished. The extruder just stopped at the very last point in the very last layer and then the extruder retracted all filament from the nozzle and all the way back to the filament spool.

I think this has to be related to Cura somehow. I’m going to try reprap flavor and some tunings found on this forum.

This is a learning curve, but it’s fun to see progress.

You'll need to check your start and end gcode in the slicer. It specifies what happens before and after the print. To home before printing there needs to be a G28. And to lift the nozzle after or at least move it away you can use G28 X to home the X axis to move it away from the print. You can get as fancy as you want.

The retracting all the filament thing happens when cura is set to use absolute extrusion and the end gcode tells it to retract a bit of filament but instead of retracting just a bit, it commands it to go all the way back to the very beginning of extrusion. Setting cura to use relative extrusion distances will solve that.

baesjerker

Thank you @phaedrux Slic3r stock with checked " Use relative E distances" solved it, but I really don't like Slic3r. I find Cura much easier to use.

I will look into how to use relative extrusion in Cura.

Phaedrux

@baesjerker said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:

I will look into how to use relative extrusion in Cura.

It's an option under the Special Modes menu heading. It might be hidden by default.

baesjerker

@phaedrux Awesome. Found it.

baesjerker

Now everything seems to be working like it was when using my stock Ender 3 Pro board.

Print quality is more or less the same, maybe a bit worse than before, but I need to experiment a little more with the duet config and in Cura.

But the stepper motor noise is almost gone they are so much quieter now!

I also had to lower the current for the stepper motors. They where running really hot using stock (x, y, z, e) (725, 725, 725, 900). Trying to find the magic numbers here.

I see everything from 400 to 900 on this forum.

dc42

The Ender 3 uses low current motors and 24V power, so I am not surprised that you need to reduce motor current. Stepper motor current is adjustable in steps of 100mA on the Duet WiFi/Ethernet, and 50mA on the Duet Maestro. So 600mA may be a good value to try, perhaps a little more on the extruder motor if necessary.