Mid air printinting
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I've done that and on Duet Web Control it works as intended, if I send a G1 Z0 command it lowers the nozzle to the right distance but only when I'm trying to print it stays in the air.
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In the Simplify3D process, click Show Advanced and select the GCodes tab. Make sure that the Global G-Code Offsets are all 0.00.
If that doesn't work, grab the first 200 lines or so (down to the first G1 Zn.nnn Fnnnn line) of the gcode file and post them. That'll allow us to see exactly what the slicer is doing.
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There are no offsets on the gcode tab and I copied the start of a gcode file
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I have a Chiron with a Duet and I suffered this problem of "air printing" when using simplify3d, prusa slicer was worse.
I cured my problem by playing with the homing files and setting up the Z probe properly. I initially cheated and used the rep rap config tool but that didnt generate what I needed properly.
see my files for what im using with success.
Any other help I can be just ask.
DISCLAIMER.
This setup WORKS FOR ME, it may not be the right or wrong way to do things, But on my Anycubic Chiron with a Duet and a titan/E3D V6 it works for me.
Oh and I was getting Z banding artifacts showing up in my prints so I popped out the top bearings this got rid of the banding.
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Ok, thank you. Looking over your config file I've seen you have the Z axis minimum -1 and that made me curious, checked mine and I had it set to 2.25 so voila there has my offset I was getting in the slicer, I changed it to 0 and now it works as it should.
Thank you guys, for all your help -
@calvinx said in Mid air printinting:
I have a Chiron with a Duet and I suffered this problem of "air printing" when using simplify3d, prusa slicer was worse.
I cured my problem by playing with the homing files and setting up the Z probe properly. I initially cheated and used the rep rap config tool but that didnt generate what I needed properly.
see my files for what im using with success.
Any other help I can be just ask.
DISCLAIMER.
This setup WORKS FOR ME, it may not be the right or wrong way to do things, But on my Anycubic Chiron with a Duet and a titan/E3D V6 it works for me.
Oh and I was getting Z banding artifacts showing up in my prints so I popped out the top bearings this got rid of the banding.
It doesn't give problems on tall prints because you removed the Z bearings? Nice setup by the way!
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The reason for -1 in my config is if i want to play with baby stepping to get the correct "squish" up or down the negative number allows me to to that.
As for tall prints its not an issue, these printers will never have perfectly straight lead screws and contraining them at the top means any bend has to show up somewhere and thats in the print. if you allow the lead screw to move about on the X,Y planes it doesnt matter, all that matters is the Z axis which is lift up or down and the weight of the carriage keeps the lead screw nuts where the are supposed to be and the carriage wheels on the X gantry keep everything where it is supposed to be, I even have the leadsrew nuts loosened off a tiny amount on X carriage mounts to allow the nuts to float around on the X,Y planes.
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@CaLviNx can you confirm with me these configs are still valid for a Chiron ? Im about to tackle mine with a Duet ethernet
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I am running a duet 2 WiFi with a titan direct drive, the files I posted haven't been changed but will represent a WiFi with a titan and e3d v6.
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@CaLviNx great im using a Titan Aero / Volcano combo only change for wifi to ethernet is ip configuration. Can i ask how did you wire your Z ?? repurposed E1 ?
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Yes for the second Z I remapped E1 I did away with the two z optical end stops and used an IR sensor you can see all this from looking at the config.g
Using independent motor/drivers allow you to use compensation too. -
@CaLviNx ok seriously confused, if there 2 Z connectors on the board why does one need to remap E1 ? guess im not understanding the why it needs remapoping and you cant just use the 2 Z connectors
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@dingo007
The two z connectors are powered from one driver. This results in half the amps available for each z motor.Remapping one z motor to E1 allows for independent motor control. You can then use your z probe to level your X carriage to your bed.
Owns various duet boards and is the main wiki maintainer for the Teamgloomy LPC/STM32 port of RRF. Assume I'm running whatever the latest beta/stable build is
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@jay_s_uk ahhhh got it... now it all makes sense! Thanks
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@jay_s_uk said in Mid air printinting:
This results in half the amps available for each z motor.
Not correct. As Duet Z connectors are wired in series, not parallel, amps remaining same. What they need more is voltage, so when using 2 Zconnectors it is recommended to use 24V for VIN.
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@aidar ah, ok. Thanks
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@CaLviNx ok slightly confused about the SDcard and LCD panel, no longer needed right so dont bother trying to wire them in??
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Correct it's now surplus to requirements,
You only keep the motors, the wiring to the motors x and y end stops, and everything going upto the hotend of course.
As there is TWO psu's wire the "laptop" style one to the duet then feed the signal for the heated bed back out to the chiron's on board mostfet and leave the psu that supplies it alone.
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@CaLviNx okay last silly question is there a guide for using independent motor/drivers allowing the use of compensation too. i take it it is not the same as automatic bed leveling! Sorry a little new to this 3D stuff and got a bastard chiron riddled with issue out of the box. working to get it happy.
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You need to follow the dozuki it covers exactly what you want, also if you examine the content of my config.g that shows you everything I did to get the Chiron up running including both z motor locations.
Here is a look under the hood of how I wired everything up
