@SelfHatenMarine said in Im new to these 3D printers but can someone help me please?:

ltibots d300vs+

hello, it sounds like you might just need to get the web control going.
AFTER COPYING THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THE SD CARD TO A FOLDER ON YOUR COMPUTER FOR BACKUP
On the SD card go into the sys folder and find the file called config.g
have a look in that file for any lines with the number
m587 or m552

if you are lucky like me, you'll find the m587 and you can see the wifi and password. change it to your wifi, save the file and
put the sd card back and turn it on again.

if you are unlucky you'll need to read this page pretty throughly
/How_to_guides/Getting_connected/Getting_connected_to_your_Duet
i don't have a good enough reputation to post links so google the above

i did read that it is not a good idea to leave m587 in your file as it means it writes to the eprom every time you turn on the computer and wears out the memory.
also it has your password in cleartext.

Hi All,
So i'm rebuilding my sd card to work with the new firmware.
(config.g was from 2.3 and i was advised to just start again for 3.5.4)

so that's what ii've done
config.g
I'm getting these errors at startup:

Messages 0m47 Info: successfully initialized. 
0m47 Error: in file macro line 61 column 50: M308: expected number after 'W' 
0m47 Error: in file macro line 62 column 46: M308: expected number after 'W' 
0m47 Warning: Sensor number 0 has not been defined 
0m47 Warning: Heater 0 predicted maximum temperature at full power is 321°C 
0m46 Warning: Sensor number 1 has not been defined 
0m46 Error: in file macro line 89: M591: parameter 'D' too high Control Status Console Setup

The config tool has created the config.g file, i have not edited it yet.
line 61 and 62 is

; Sensors
M308 S0 P"spi.cs2" Y"rtdmax31865" A"Heated Bed" W"K" F50 ; configure sensor #0
M308 S1 P"spi.cs1" Y"rtdmax31865" A"Nozzle" W"K" F50 ; configure sensor #1

The documentation for m308 states:

Y"sensor_type" The sensor and interface type, one of: "thermistor", "pt1000", "rtd-max31865", "thermocouple-max31855", "thermocouple-max31856", "linear-analog", "dht21", "dht22", "dht-humidity", "bme280", "bme-pressure", "bme-humidity", "current-loop-pyro", "drivers", "mcu-temp" (see note below regarding "mcu-temp" support on Duet 3 Mini 5+). Duet WiFi/Ethernet with an attached DueX...

but the config is showing rtdmax31865 no hyphen, is that an issue? which is correct?

Next issue is even though i have selected 4 as my number of wires, it is submitting the W argument as "K"

Shouldn't it be W4?
And i think K is an argument for the thermister type letter.

To reproduce:
Visit the configurator (i'm using chromium on linux mint)
select version 3.5 or 3.6
choose start new configuration from scratch
scroll straight down to temperature sensors
leave eveything default then change
type to PT100 (MAX31865)
change input port to spi.cs1
number of wires to 4
Click on Show g-code preview for that section, the output is
M308 S0 P"spi.cs1" Y"rtdmax31865" A"Heated Bed" W"K" F50 ; configure sensor #0

the expected output is (maybe, i'm not sure hence this post)
M308 S0 P"spi.cs1" Y"rtd-max31865" A"Heated Bed" W4 K"c" F50 ; configure sensor #0

Re: 3D scanning a $2 coin with 3D printer and DIY touch probe

@CVMichael did this very cool thing turning his 3d printer into a scanner using a needle

could i do the same thing with my printer using the bltouch probe and a macro?
I get that the probe is not very pointy and that depth would be an issue as anything deep might hit the extruder, but i'm thinking something fairly flat like an odd shaped pcb would be quite useful to scan if one was making a case for it.

Or is it easier and simpler to plonk it on a fax/scanner and then do an edge detection in inkscape or similar?

that's odd, are you looking for the cables or the crimps?

16awg is pretty chunky and i'm suprised you're having trouble.

this is the datasheet for the headers used on the board
https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eVH.pdf

the notes say
"The 4 wire motor and OUT1, OUT2 and OUT3 are JST VH series connectors. They require a minimum of 22AWG wire (20AWG or 0.5mm2 recommended. Most NEMA17 size stepper motor wire will will not be thick enough to use in the normal way; but you can double the stripped part of the wire back on itself to bulk it up, and put a small length of heatshrink sleeving over the insulation to bulk up the insulation. You will need a suitable crimping tool for the crimp pins, for example Engineer PA21 (use the 2.2mm jaw opening to crimp the bare wire and the 2.5mm on to crimp the insulation). Alternatively you can solder the wire to the crimp pin"

If you are desperate and want it done now, that molex cables in your PC power supply for the older style hard drives are typically good quality 20awg stranded.

I often see PC's on council chuck out days to harvest.
Failing that i'd use mouser or RS.
Amazon or ebay will also provide what you need...but you roll the dice on quality.

@moth4017
What happens if you add a comment line after 35?
like this

M584 Y0 X1 Z3:4:5 E2
M350 X16 Y16 I1
;this is a comment to bump the line numbering
M350 Z16 E16
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z320 E562

then if the error moves to line 37 you know it is having trouble with that file.
Also, and i apologise if i'm teaching you to suck eggs, but:

what happens if you split the m350's? like
M350 Z16
M350 E16

any none printable characters in line 36?

I find the instructions a bit confusing, i see you have three motors driving Z and the notes say
Example: If you have two motors on your Z axis, physically connected to Z and E0 stepper drivers, configured with M584 Z2:3, set M350 Z16, not M350 Z16,16

but in the examples for the extruders it's listing stepping for each

M350 Z1 ;set the Z-axis' driver to use full steps
M350 E4:4:4 ;set extruders 0-2 to use quarter steps)

though i guess they are independent extruders, not motors on the same axis.

Hi All, I need to replace my PEI sheet which sits on glass which sits on a heated bed.
it has annoying metal tabs which either hold the plate firm or lets the sheet sit flat (not both!)

So i've bought a kit with a magnetic sticky sheet and some pei sheets sandwiched between sprung steel
(this link, i chose the second one, with base)

Problem is, the heated metal bed under the base is visibly warped
Here is the map

Screenshot taken after removing the glass then doing a bed level compensation.

And you can see in the picture it bows in the middle under the straight edge

my thoughts are:

1. take the bed off and try and bend it flat, i'm not sure if i'm skilled enough or if i need special equipment.
2. stick the magnetic sheet to the glass, this has the disadvantage of keeping the metal tabs, longer bed heat times and there is still a gap under the glass meaning uneven heating.

I have tried:

heating the bed up in case it was just contraction causing it to bow.

Any advice on what i should do here?

@gnydick
i'm afraid i don't know enough about stepper motors to say why. Are all nmea17's the exact the same? with the exact same connector?

@gnydick
I'm not sure but i would guess that because stepper motors use sine waves the rated current will be RMS not Peak. so you can add another 30% (terrible rule of thumb but it's good enough) which takes 2A to 2.6 peak, then a bit of headroom where the connector manufacture is being pessimistic and the motor manufacturer is optimistic.

or...

I'm not sure where you got those figures from.
the connector is a jst-vh (not ph) and is rated to 10amp with 16awg. But i would guess the limiting factor is more likely to be the trace on the board not the cabling or the connector.

@droftarts
I did buy the Califlower, it's printed out really well. Thought my calipers only go to one decimal place, i'm pretty happy that that values are the same in each direction though,
it recommended m556 s100 x-0.033
which i'll test again after i've finished the other tunings. before adding it.

that's odd, are you looking for the cables or the crimps?

16awg is pretty chunky and i'm suprised you're having trouble.

this is the datasheet for the headers used on the board
https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eVH.pdf

the notes say
"The 4 wire motor and OUT1, OUT2 and OUT3 are JST VH series connectors. They require a minimum of 22AWG wire (20AWG or 0.5mm2 recommended. Most NEMA17 size stepper motor wire will will not be thick enough to use in the normal way; but you can double the stripped part of the wire back on itself to bulk it up, and put a small length of heatshrink sleeving over the insulation to bulk up the insulation. You will need a suitable crimping tool for the crimp pins, for example Engineer PA21 (use the 2.2mm jaw opening to crimp the bare wire and the 2.5mm on to crimp the insulation). Alternatively you can solder the wire to the crimp pin"

If you are desperate and want it done now, that molex cables in your PC power supply for the older style hard drives are typically good quality 20awg stranded.

I often see PC's on council chuck out days to harvest.
Failing that i'd use mouser or RS.
Amazon or ebay will also provide what you need...but you roll the dice on quality.

Thank you all,
some great advice there.

I'm going to stick with orca slicer, so with that in mind i shall:

try and avoid override_config (i've moved my heater pid settings over)

not use the filamanet section on the duet and instead use the slicer filament settings

check that my slicer isn't messing about with static settings (as i do want to do pressure advance and input shaping).

@droftarts
I took the little silicon jacket of the HotEnd and i agree with you that it's a volcano-175-AS. that's really good info about the stringing as i'm currently doing teachingtechs benchmark for temperature
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#temp
and i can't even get one bridge working. But at least i feel a bit more confident now about why.

Hi,
So i'm trying to tune my printer and it's very slow going.
i've got the basics sorted and i'm happy with my config.g code but now i'm trying to reduce stringing, increase speed and quality etc.

What is the best practice for gcode location and run order?

The machine runs it's own gcode when it starts called
sys/config.g

but then, it can override that with sys/config-override.g

then there is a filament folder and it has a config.g file in which will override the sys/config.g; and presumably it will override config-override.g too. but only if i click it or always if it's loaded?

My Slicer, Orca, also has a section called Machine G-Code for the selected printer and that has bits like

G21; metric values
G90; absolute positioning
M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode
M107; start with the fan off

Then, Orca Slicer has a filament profile with a section called Setting Overrides

i think i could even put codes in there that would then override the orca machine code section which would override the myfilament/config.g which would override the config-override.g which would then override config.g!

So what is the best practice for where g-code goes? Is there a handy flow chart guide about what type of code goes where?

should i not use the filament folder on the machine at all and just use the slicer filament profile since the the slicer has both model and filament?

Should i try to reduce any and all 'static settings' in the slicers printer template otherwise if i change slicer half of my config.g will revert to sys/config.g and might not be correct?

I'm having trouble with tuning and i really don't want to end up with a whole load of changes that i can't track or worse... are having no affect because i didn't know something else is overwriting them.
How are you managing this?

@droftarts
Thanks for the info Ian,
That's really helpful stuff.
I'm using orca slicer as reddit feels it give the best results and i liked the interface.
i'm working my way through these
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#flow
calibration settings, though my partner made a very good point, i could shave 30 minutes off the print time, but if it wasn't a good result or failed 3 in 10 i'd be just as efficient leaving it at 2 hours print time.

I'm looking forward to playing with the feed forward, and i'm going to buy an accelerometer. a bit frustrating that i have a box of ADXL345's but it doesn't support that one. Still it's a very awesome OSS project!

@droftarts
Ooo thanks for the info, yes I think the previous owner was printing nylon a fair bit.

I'm quite new to this so how fast is fast?
I ran a benchy on it and it took 2hours and 10mins.

My speeds are based on the original config.g I found on the SD card so i have no idea if they are super conservative or if that's a typical benchy print?