So it turns out my bed is indeed a 24v - I went ahead and converted an old xbox PSU to a 12v supply and hooked it up. Everything is now functioning properly with the inconvenience of my bed heating rather slowly. It still reaches and maintains 60-70C which is plenty considering I almost exclusively print with PETG. The trade-off of the noise from my 24v to the complete silence of my 12v is worth it alone IMHO. I may look at replacing my bed later on down the line, but foresee this being suitable for the near future. Thanks to everyone for your help, greatly appreciated.

@dc42 @DocTrucker Thanks guys, I appreciate the insights provided. I will move this to a more relevant forum if I can't get it figured out.

@DocTrucker Appreciate the replies, but THIS board is not a duet. Also already checked endstop status and verified correct functionality with M119. Regardless, I can jog x and y in one direction only and back to "home" (being where they started when the machine powered up) and all endstops still remain un-triggered (low), whether manual or done VIA console.

Even if I call Homex or Homey, they do not move... at all. Homez on the other hand, will home just fine.

I installed a duet wifi on my primary printer, which freed up a logic board for me to bring an old printer back to life. I've got all of the wiring done and am now onto the firmware+ portion of the project... and have run into a snag, to which I am out of ideas for.

G28 only homes the z axis, doesn't even try for x and y. It is set to do x, y, then z per my firmware config. None of the endstops are tripped, and I have verified proper functionality with M119 to ensure they're High and Low as expected. It's almost like both the x and y axis are triggered by default, but they both come back with low on an M119... any thoughts as to what might be the issue here?

Printer:
Cartesian (DaVinci 1.0)
Repetier 1.0.3
Azteeg x3 pro board

Exactly why I asked, appreciate your response and agree whole heartedly that I definitely will not want to re-do it, I'll scratch the plexi idea.

Was going to do something similar to this build, except the bottom plate would be acrylic.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/17680/davinci-10a-bed-replacment/

@deckingman

Mostly because I have a laser cutter and 3/8" acrylic sitting right next to my 3d printer, and would be rather easy/convenient for me to do myself if it is a sustainable solution.

@deckingman

Sorry, its an aluminium plate with a heater attached. This is the one I currently have in mind...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V7DVGB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=A36KNDPALTN82Y&psc=1

@droftarts

Ahh, good callout, fortunately just a typo on my part here and not anywhere else so far...

Hey all, I am in the process of upgrading my old DaVinci 1.0 printer from back in the day which will include replacing the heated bed with a better/larger bed. In order to do so, I will need to laser a custom carriage plate to house the new bed. My question is, can I use 1/4" plexiglass as material for said carriage plate? I would think that with proper insulation between the heated bed and the carriage plate I should be fine and free from any warp concern, but wanted to get popular opinion before I wasted any time on design. For clarification, my intention would be to do it like this from top down:

Glass
Heated bed
3mm cork board
1/4" Plexi Carriage Plate (maybe even 3/8")

Appreciate your thoughts!