Posts made by PixelGl1tch

@dc42 @DocTrucker Thanks guys, I appreciate the insights provided. I will move this to a more relevant forum if I can't get it figured out.

@DocTrucker Appreciate the replies, but THIS board is not a duet. Also already checked endstop status and verified correct functionality with M119. Regardless, I can jog x and y in one direction only and back to "home" (being where they started when the machine powered up) and all endstops still remain un-triggered (low), whether manual or done VIA console.

Even if I call Homex or Homey, they do not move... at all. Homez on the other hand, will home just fine.

I installed a duet wifi on my primary printer, which freed up a logic board for me to bring an old printer back to life. I've got all of the wiring done and am now onto the firmware+ portion of the project... and have run into a snag, to which I am out of ideas for.

G28 only homes the z axis, doesn't even try for x and y. It is set to do x, y, then z per my firmware config. None of the endstops are tripped, and I have verified proper functionality with M119 to ensure they're High and Low as expected. It's almost like both the x and y axis are triggered by default, but they both come back with low on an M119... any thoughts as to what might be the issue here?

Printer:
Cartesian (DaVinci 1.0)
Repetier 1.0.3
Azteeg x3 pro board

Exactly why I asked, appreciate your response and agree whole heartedly that I definitely will not want to re-do it, I'll scratch the plexi idea.

Was going to do something similar to this build, except the bottom plate would be acrylic.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/17680/davinci-10a-bed-replacment/

@deckingman

Mostly because I have a laser cutter and 3/8" acrylic sitting right next to my 3d printer, and would be rather easy/convenient for me to do myself if it is a sustainable solution.

@deckingman

Sorry, its an aluminium plate with a heater attached. This is the one I currently have in mind...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V7DVGB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=A36KNDPALTN82Y&psc=1

@droftarts

Ahh, good callout, fortunately just a typo on my part here and not anywhere else so far...

Hey all, I am in the process of upgrading my old DaVinci 1.0 printer from back in the day which will include replacing the heated bed with a better/larger bed. In order to do so, I will need to laser a custom carriage plate to house the new bed. My question is, can I use 1/4" plexiglass as material for said carriage plate? I would think that with proper insulation between the heated bed and the carriage plate I should be fine and free from any warp concern, but wanted to get popular opinion before I wasted any time on design. For clarification, my intention would be to do it like this from top down:

Glass
Heated bed
3mm cork board
1/4" Plexi Carriage Plate (maybe even 3/8")

Appreciate your thoughts!

Thanks for the response, super helpful. So as I understand it now, M92 Z0 is really just for the purposes of finding a specific location relative to the one that you are at when you execute the command, not for actually storing anything for future use - please correct me if incorrect.

I have since updated the home height to the correct position based on the change required to Z after my M92 Z0 to reach my desired Z0 location, and b00m, back in business! Appreciate your responses, and this amazing community.

@fcwilt

Here is my homedelta file...

; homedelta.g
; called to home all towers on a delta printer
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.2 on Wed Nov 20 2019 23:41:27 GMT-0600 (Central Standard Time)
G91 ; relative positioning

G1 H1 X478 Y478 Z478 F1800 ; move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass)
G1 H2 X-15 Y-15 Z-15 F1800 ; go down a few mm
G1 H1 X10 Y10 Z10 F360 ; move all towers up once more (second pass)
G1 H2 X-15 Y-15 Z-15 F6000 ; move down a few mm so that the nozzle can be centred
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y0 F6000 ; move X+Y to the centre

Board: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 2.04 (2019-11-01b1)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.23

Delta Printer - Rostock Max - SE300 Smart Effector

The title kinda says it all... I can home successfully, and everything seems to perform normally. I bring the hot end down and bust out the paper trick to get my Z0 position, then execute G92 Z0, then home all (homedelta). G0 Z0 then takes me back to the exact same position I was in before my G92 Z0, quite frustrating... Any ideas out there?

So it turns out my bed is indeed a 24v - I went ahead and converted an old xbox PSU to a 12v supply and hooked it up. Everything is now functioning properly with the inconvenience of my bed heating rather slowly. It still reaches and maintains 60-70C which is plenty considering I almost exclusively print with PETG. The trade-off of the noise from my 24v to the complete silence of my 12v is worth it alone IMHO. I may look at replacing my bed later on down the line, but foresee this being suitable for the near future. Thanks to everyone for your help, greatly appreciated.

Regarding the hotends - It is quite possible I got that incorrect, and just got lucky when I ordered them in the past. Thanks for the tip about switching the wiring around on the bed if it is indeed dual voltage. I will check it out when I get home and see what I am working with, but I think it may be this one, which is designed for 12v, but says you can just limit the PWM signal at 24v to keep things in check.

https://www.seemecnc.com/products/rev8-onyx-heated-bed-revision-8-discontinued-eol?_pos=4&_sid=43a9540af&_ss=r

I would suspect that if it is not safe practice, that they wouldn't mention it on the product page, but if it's not for whatever reason I would appreciate a heads up. You guys rock, thanks for the help!

Exactly what I needed to know, thanks a bunch. I have purchased two genuine e3dv6's throughout my time and they both accepted 12v or 24v. When I saw that e3d designed the hot end for the se300 I just assumed it too would be the same. It does indeed look like the heater cartridge that comes with the se300 is 12v only, which would explain my problem here.

I THINK that my bed is 12v or 24v, but I will verify when I get home. Other than the duet wifi + SE300 (which includes fans) & whip, everything else on my printer is the same, and has been running off of the 24v supply.

If my bed can pull enough power to heat to sufficient temps, I would think I shouldn't have to worry about replacing any additional components to power off of 12v instead. Does this sound right?

I should also point out that the heated bed heats up normally, and seems to be just fine. It is only the hot end that is having a problem.

It is a 24v power supply, which I thought was fine per the wiring diagram sheet (12-25v input). Please excuse my ignorance, your help is greatly appreciated. Does this mean that I would need to replace it with a 12v power supply?

I have since changed the PID to 25% and located and selected the e3d thermistor in the configurator, still no change to the outcome and cant find any info on recommended se300 settings.

Hey gang, so I just upgraded my Rostock Max to a Duet2 Wifi + SE300 hot end. I have most everything working correctly it seems minus my extruder, which I'm not overly concerned about yet, and the hot end. When I fire up the hot end it immediately skyrockets in temperature until my it auto-shuts down. Even if I put it at 100C it will do the same. I just went through the auto-tune, which also errors out. Anyone have any ideas or can share the settings I should use for the SE300 hot end through configurator? Any help is MUCH appreciated!

Results of Auto-Tune:

11/18/2019, 8:01:55 PM Warning: Auto tune of heater 1 failed due to bad curve fit (A=3742.7, C=144.7, D=4.7)
11/18/2019, 7:59:40 PM Auto tune phase 3, peak temperature was 329.5
11/18/2019, 7:59:29 PM Auto tune phase 2, heater off
11/18/2019, 7:59:12 PM Auto tune phase 1, heater on
11/18/2019, 7:59:06 PM M303 H1 S240
Auto tuning heater 1 using target temperature 240.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattended