@jay_s_uk said in How to put LED control on the web interface and touch screen:

You can certainly use a heater output has a fan.

Your M307 command is disabling heater 6 from being a heater so you're halfway there.
You can then use M106 to assign P6 as a fan and control it that way.

In RRF3, its much easier to assign pins as nothing has a default use

Ah - just what I was looking for.

Here is the new config.g snippet in case others are looking to control LEDs with the Duet/Duex through the web interface:

; LED Lights - Duex5
M307 H6 A-1 C-1 D-1				; Use heater 5 for LED lights on Duex5
M106 P6 S1.0 C"LEDs" A6				; Map to fan control, name and set to full bright

Now with a web frontend slider:

Thank you very much!

And found a way to lower the light level after 30 mins. A bit of a hack but uses the fan controls blip timer:

; LED Lights - Duex5
M307 H6 A-1 C-1 D-1				; Use heater 5 for LED lights on Duex5
M106 P6 B1800 C"LEDs" A6			; Map to fan control, name and set to full bright for 30 min
M106 P6 S0.01					; Trigger burst of 1800 sec 30 min full bright than go to 1%

This will turn on the LEDs to full bright on startup or whenever coming off 0%, then go to the selected percentage.

Only downside is that you cannot dim the LEDs during those 30 min, but you can turn them off.

@jay_s_uk said in Is my extruder set up properly?:

Popping is usually a sign of wet filament.
Maybe think about trying some other filament if you have some?

Other than that, its generally a good looking benchy

Agreed.

Popping sounds are little steam explosions that rip the layer apart. They can be cause by

• wet filament - try drying it before using it or use an inline dryer for your prints
• too much retraction - I found that when retracting too much I get ambient air pulled into the nozzle, that will produce the same effect a few millimeters after the start of a new line.

Good looking benchy indeed

Glad it worked.

I found there is a pretty universal rule of thumb for retractions:

0.5-2.5 mm + 1% of bowden tube length

For direct drive there is no bowden part so you are just left with 0.5-2.5mm (found that even at 2.5 mm you can see popping)

For bowden drive on e.g. 500mm bowden tube you end up with 0.5-2.5mm + 5mm -> often in the 6.5mm range

Also found that its true for wether you run a V6 style hotend or a Volcano. Despite some online suggestions that a Volcano should have longer retractions because of its longer meltzone. Above 2mm even Volcanos will start popping because in the end its not about the top of the melting zone, but the bottom of the nozzle.
Once you pull up the filament past 1-2mm you get air into the melting chamber, that violently overheats once re-primed.

@oliof said in Is my extruder set up properly?:

@fxstein somewhat offtopic nit-pick, but "direct drive" and "direct" are two different things. "Direct drive" usually means an ungeared extruder (while I am nit-picking, I'll nitpick on myself and mention that this should be "filament feeder", with the opposite being geared extruder (like Bondtech or Hemera). The "direct" versus "Bowden" (no drive) are really "short distance" vs "long distance" (between filament feeder and hotend).

I know exactly what you mean. We - no I am are butchering a bunch of terms. Guilty as charged. Having said so, the vast majority will understand the meaning of it - might even be less confused than when we speak more precisely.

@oliof said in Is my extruder set up properly?:

@fxstein somewhat offtopic nit-pick, but "direct drive" and "direct" are two different things. "Direct drive" usually means an ungeared extruder (while I am nit-picking, I'll nitpick on myself and mention that this should be "filament feeder", with the opposite being geared extruder (like Bondtech or Hemera). The "direct" versus "Bowden" (no drive) are really "short distance" vs "long distance" (between filament feeder and hotend).

I know exactly what you mean. We - no I am are butchering a bunch of terms. Guilty as charged. Having said so, the vast majority will understand the meaning of it - might even be less confused than when we speak more precisely.

And found a way to lower the light level after 30 mins. A bit of a hack but uses the fan controls blip timer:

; LED Lights - Duex5
M307 H6 A-1 C-1 D-1				; Use heater 5 for LED lights on Duex5
M106 P6 B1800 C"LEDs" A6			; Map to fan control, name and set to full bright for 30 min
M106 P6 S0.01					; Trigger burst of 1800 sec 30 min full bright than go to 1%

This will turn on the LEDs to full bright on startup or whenever coming off 0%, then go to the selected percentage.

Only downside is that you cannot dim the LEDs during those 30 min, but you can turn them off.

Glad it worked.

I found there is a pretty universal rule of thumb for retractions:

0.5-2.5 mm + 1% of bowden tube length

For direct drive there is no bowden part so you are just left with 0.5-2.5mm (found that even at 2.5 mm you can see popping)

For bowden drive on e.g. 500mm bowden tube you end up with 0.5-2.5mm + 5mm -> often in the 6.5mm range

Also found that its true for wether you run a V6 style hotend or a Volcano. Despite some online suggestions that a Volcano should have longer retractions because of its longer meltzone. Above 2mm even Volcanos will start popping because in the end its not about the top of the melting zone, but the bottom of the nozzle.
Once you pull up the filament past 1-2mm you get air into the melting chamber, that violently overheats once re-primed.

@jay_s_uk said in How to put LED control on the web interface and touch screen:

You can certainly use a heater output has a fan.

Your M307 command is disabling heater 6 from being a heater so you're halfway there.
You can then use M106 to assign P6 as a fan and control it that way.

In RRF3, its much easier to assign pins as nothing has a default use

Ah - just what I was looking for.

Here is the new config.g snippet in case others are looking to control LEDs with the Duet/Duex through the web interface:

; LED Lights - Duex5
M307 H6 A-1 C-1 D-1				; Use heater 5 for LED lights on Duex5
M106 P6 S1.0 C"LEDs" A6				; Map to fan control, name and set to full bright

Now with a web frontend slider:

Thank you very much!

@dc42 Upgrading to 3.1 is on my roadmap. As soon as we get the next printer put together I will go there.

Thanks a lot for the suggestion!

@jay_s_uk said in Is my extruder set up properly?:

Popping is usually a sign of wet filament.
Maybe think about trying some other filament if you have some?

Other than that, its generally a good looking benchy

Agreed.

Popping sounds are little steam explosions that rip the layer apart. They can be cause by

• wet filament - try drying it before using it or use an inline dryer for your prints
• too much retraction - I found that when retracting too much I get ambient air pulled into the nozzle, that will produce the same effect a few millimeters after the start of a new line.

Good looking benchy indeed

@jay_s_uk Can a heater output be turned into a fan? The reason I had to hook it up to heater 5 was because I am drawing some 4A for all the combined LEDs, whereas fan outputs only support 1.5A

M950 does not seem to allow both heater and fan to be specified at the same time.

Thanks!

Hi,

Have wired all my LED strips on to heater 5 of the Duex 5 board. Some 80W of high power LEDs to light out a black encased Modix3D Big60V3.
Like the fact that I can share a single 24V power supply and have g-code control over the amount of light it creates. 100% PWM is super bright and allows for filming of fast movement speeds. 10% PWM is decent for more of a standby light when you walk up.

Here is how it is configured in config.g:

; LED Lights - Duex5
M307 H6 A-1 C-1 D-1				; Use heater 5 for LED lights on Duex5
M42 P6 S1.0					; Set full bright

My question: How do I get a slider or control onto the web control page as well as the touch panel? Would like to walk up and change the brightness with a simple touch (or slider on the web interface).

As an added benefit: Is there a way to reset the brightness to e.g. 10% PWM after x seconds?

Thanks a lot!

Depends on the type of fan or blower. For 5015 blower style fans I found that this Sunon to be the best:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/369-MF50151VXB00UA99

Most powerful I could find. Running them at 60% for regular prints and at 100% for bridging or short layer times. Have tested it down to 5% PWM. It will start spinning at that low of a setting, when most other fans just make a humming noise, but refuse to start.

It's one of the few ones that actually creates decent pressure, so you can force the air through a smaller nozzle to increase air velocity (tested and measured) .

It's also based on a maglev system that should theoretically last forever.

FYI: Tried to mark the original post as (SOLVED) but being told by the forum that I can only edit a post for 3600 seconds