@brian i have resolved the connection problem following the advice on this post https://www.instructables.com/Duet-WiFi-Activate-and-Connect-the-WiFi-When-It-Do/

@t3p3tony I think there is a step missing in the calibrate the Z probe trigger height.

I followed the steps over and over again and the bed kept stopping at a distance too far from the nozzle. Then it occurred to me that the z value in the config.g file may be adding to the value the duet was reporting. So i set that value to 0 and then the bed when all the way up and too far. So then i used trial and error in the config file to get it just right. It took many tries but at last count it worked right. Final value so far is 2.87.

@brian thanks for everyone's help

@rushmere3d Thank you.

@droftarts Thanks for the advices. While waiting for a usb extension cable, i decided to check the sd card, and found all the files in the sys directory are gone. Fortunately i have an old sd card with working files on it. Inserted it into the duet and wholla, it works! I suppose the config is out dated but i will be able to update it over time. i dont know how the files were deleted, except i did delete gcode file and somehow the sys went too, i guess?

I'm on my 3rd Duet2 wifi, they have all had problems. The wifi suddenly stopped working on this one after a year or so. The wifi lights that normally flicker on at start up no longer come on at all. I've removed the memory card and reinserted it. How can i troubleshoot it? Thx in advance.

Does anyone know how to configure Orca slicer with Duet2 wifi machines? I've used mostly S3D for many years and tried others like Prusa, but now i have a Bambu x1c and it slices way better than S3D and i would like to use it on my old Duet printer. Ive tried many times but cant get it to work. I am able to connect to the duet2 ui but sending to the printer always fails in one way or another. Rlight now after sending print via wifi it uploads and heats the nozzle then always skips to 100% complete and turns off nozzle without printing anything. My machine is custom built reprap, no brand.

@Phaedrux Thank you. Never heard of buck converter, so thanks again.

@deckingman Thank you and the others, you have made my day, saved me a lot of stress and money.

@gtrider Thank you. You have also made my day.

@engikeneer Really? I thought when i bought the board i had a choice 12v or 24v. Wow, that changes everything. So would i just get a 24v power supply and everything would run?

@Phaedrux Well yes, except thats 7 or 8 motors plus a new board and a new extruder, I could use a new board i guess since none of the fan outputs work, its happened on all 3 duets i've bought. I dont know if that has been fixed but i sure dont want another one like that.

I'm finding the 40 w heater is just not enough and want to go to 60w but the heater suppliers only sell a 60w 24v heater (revo). So the 40w cant keep up and i get heater faults when using larger nozzles. I have the mini board attached (dont know what its called) so the power is not coming off the duet board (i think)

@ziggymanpopo I am using the pt100 daughter board, dont recall having to code anything. I am using the hemera revo, thermister/heater combo. And now the revo high flow, they dont make a 60w 12v version, just 24v, so im stuck with 12v 40w, so slower prints eg 40mm/s with 1.0 nozzle.

After doing the PID, after the fourth try, it started to perform correctly. So as of now all is well, no need to persue it further, and the supplier is sending me a replacement heater, so should be ok for a while, a long while i hope.

Thx for your help.