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coseng

@coseng

Motorcycles and engineering, and sometimes some other stuff.

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Joined 22 Apr 2021, 02:34 Last Online 1 May 2025, 21:30
Website www.cosentinoengineering.com Location Jersey City, NJ

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Best posts made by coseng

  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    OK, sorry about the drop out there, but had to drive from NJ to Portland, OR to have the bike this is all about at a show, the One Moto show. The show was fun, the drive sucked, but for your viewing pleasure here's a shot of the bike, sans the bodywork that this printer will print.

    hm-elevator.jpg

    Lots of other 3d printing in this baby. The first 8" of the exhaust was DMLS printed in 316 stainless steel. The swingarm was sand cast in A356 aluminum in a mold that was printed directly in sand by humtown.com. Same goes for the engine side covers and oil sump, but they are cast in magnesium. The steel chassis lugs were FDM printed in PolyCast filament then investment cast in 4130 steel. Last but not least, the oil cooler mounting brackets were printed on my Anycubic MonoX in Siraya's high temp white resin.

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    7 May 2022, 02:46
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    Still making progress, the heated chamber is cut, lined, and just about done.

    070521.jpg

    The next step is laying out the electronics and wiring in the side area. Here are the main connections:

    75VDC/1200W power supply for ClearPath XYUV servo power
    24VDC/480W power supply for Duet 6HC power

    Duet 6HC mainboard
    -24VDC power in
    -CAN to (2) 1LC toolboards
    -OUT_1 to SSR for bed heater
    -OUT_2 to SSR for chamber heater/fans
    -OUT_3 to E3D water cooler 12V fan
    -OUT_4 to E3D water cooler 12V pump
    -OUT_5 to internal chamber recirculation 12V fan
    -IO_01234 to XYUVZ endstops
    -IO_5 to power 5V of EBOB for step/direction output
    -TEMP_0 to PT1000 sensor for heated bed
    -TEMP_1 to two PT1000 sensors in series for heated enclosure
    -DIY soldered connections to EBOB for step/direction
    -PanelDue 7i.

    1LC XY head
    -CAN line
    -24VDC power in
    -filament stepper motor
    -filament sensor
    -PT1000 sensor
    -80W 24VDC heater
    -BLTouch

    1LC UV head
    -CAN line
    -24VDC power in
    -filament stepper motor
    -filament sensor
    -PT1000 sensor
    -80W 24VDC heater

    I think that covers it all.

    The servos and steppers are outside of the heated chamber so should not have overheating issues but if so, I can use the 1LC fan output for a filament stepper fan and the servos have fan mounts on the heatsink that can be driven from the power supply.

    The 5/16" ground aluminum build plate and Keenovo 3000W 220VAC heater with silicone foam insulation arrived and will be put aside until the Z mechanism is ready next week.

    build-plate.jpg

    Final build volume is 700x644x1020.

    The next plans are to install the electronics, power supplies, etc. and initial wiring in the side compartment. Then bolt the Z axis in, connect it, and do a rough commission and alignment, then bolt the XYUV in and do the same. Then dig in for some extended tweaking sessions!

    posted in General Discussion
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    coseng
    5 Jul 2021, 22:02
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    @mrehorstdmd said in New heated enclosure printer:

    Now the extruder carriage motion is going to try to pull 2m of filament off the spool at 200 mm/sec

    Why?

    If you consider a situation where the printhead is not printing (filament speed at stepper is 0), the carriage is moving from close to the spool to an extreme position, and the teflon tube is fixed at the spool box and the printhead, how can any filament be pulled off the spool? The filament already occupies the full length of the teflon tube, which does not change length. This is the reason to use a feed tube for the filament. The teflon tube changes in shape from a tall arch when the printhead is near the spool and a squat arch when it is far away, but the arc length of the arch remains the same so all the spool ever sees is the filament feed requirement.

    filament-feed.jpg
    Adding whatever filament speed is needed for printing does not change the situation.

    If you have a spool above the printhead feeding down into the center of travels and the feed is a bare filament from the exit of the spool to the printhead, this exposed length of filament does change (pythagorean theorem) as the printhead moves and this would contribute directly to filament tension, causing spool rotation when the distance increases and spool slack when it decreases. This may not make much of a difference on smaller spools, but I think with a 10kg spool it would be a problem.

    posted in General Discussion
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    coseng
    9 Jul 2021, 00:04
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    OK, have Cura 5.0 installed and on a first run it make an improvement, but there are still visible remnants of the ribs. I realized that 'print infill first' was on even though 'print outer walls first' was chosen, so the remnants of the ribs may be due to that.

    Here's a shot of the tension arm, it seems to work fine so far, but another mechanical issue has come up. The pivot arms are extra brake levers that had been machined for the motorcycle project.

    20220523_183338.jpg

    20220523_183805.jpg

    The small stepper is not up to driving the spool, so a bigger stack is on the way. At 250mm/sec print speed the spool could almost be said to be spinning!

    The first mechanical gremlin is that one of the chamber heater ducts points upwards towards the bellows, and i guess softened it, causing it to droop and rub over the top of the part, ruining the print.

    20220523_143501.jpg

    I'll make a small deflector duct above the blower (to the left) so it is not blasting directly on the bellows material. I'll also space the bellows up about 1/4" (as much as easily possible without a bunch of rework) to give a little more leeway for some sag without touching the part.

    The good news is that the part print (swingarm hugger) looked great up to that point, it is about 22" long with two long thin legs and no signs of warping or bed adhesion problems. It has a flat flange then the main walls and ribbing about .1" thick. I made the front left sloping section solid at 30% infill, the rest of the part was steep enough to print directly with no supports.

    20220523_143514.jpg

    20220523_145349.jpg

    Hoping to finish up this bellows stuff tonight and be able to finally run an part unattended.

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    23 May 2022, 22:51
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    Round 2 was a success!

    lower.jpg

    Or mostly a success. Definitely a usable part for initial track testing but the print does have some blemish areas.

    I added Z hopping at 1mm so there was a ton of z motion going on but it did not affect the print time that much. The Z motor was a lot hotter. I may have to tune the retraction settings now as at some points it seemed to be depositing a tiny drop of material, z hopping to a couple mm away, and repeating for 30-50 times in a row. I am not getting any blobbing or stringing issues, so likely have some margin to reduce retractions.

    The added z motion did accentuate the instability of really tall (500mm+) and slender support structures, as you could see them swaying back and forth a bit. Once the printhead was printing on them the motion was quickly damped, but it has a noticeable effect on surface print quality. I think the fast accelerations of the printer are causing problems when the center of mass of the printed plastic for an island is not over its center of support, so when I create these new CAD supports will try to either prevent that situation or try to give the added bracing some torsional stability. I found that adding 1 perimeter wall option to the support generation adds a lot of stability to the support islands, but it also greatly increases print time and support removal difficulty.

    inner-supports.jpg

    I think most browsers should play this video: https://www.instagram.com/p/CfKd1oqDCpV/

    The part ran with a bunch of Cura generated supports around a bunch of 3 pass wide brace walls that were added to the CAD model in Creo. The uppermost horizontal walls were a bit wonky as a result of my added walls ending too soon and the Cura supports wobbling a bit. This wonkiness stopped when these islands were merged into the overall part perimeter, which was pretty stable due to the CAD added bracing.

    hm-1.jpg

    So these parts are all good enough for initial assembly, dyno and track testing, but there will definitely be a round 2 once that all happens. When I do this part again (and actually for some other parts too), the supports will be revised to something like this:

    inner-rev3.jpg

    Basically, after orienting the part I will take the edges that are above the build plate, drape them down to intersect the build plate, then thicken them to 3 print passes. This will eliminate any isolated islands on the print bed and it will also convert the part from long, spindly and unstable fingers and supports to a stable closed profile with few supports. The rest of the fairing is about 5mm thick, and done with 2 walls and 10% gyroid infill. The result is that the added walls are 'solid' where they merge into the part so can be trimmed off without breaking through to the infill. The added part volume seems to be a decent amount less than the support structure it is replacing, and because they are usually long smooth print moves can be done at a consistent realized 150mm/sec, so also print decently faster than constantly reversing support movement.

    I found that cutting these style ribs off was pretty easy with an oscillating handheld cutters (dremel mm35). No melting and with the right blade shape (standard one included in package) it was easy to get near flush cuts. No nicked fingers, either!

    This last print was 52hrs. The printer has been going almost continually since 5/16 with no more than a few hours between prints. I've gone through about 28kg of filament so far. The only failure was the filament stepper fan, which burned out. Turns out it was a 12V fan running at 24V. I may add some shielding between the chamber heater elements and the build plate, as on the previous failed print it did seem that the heater on one side caused some of the single wall tree supports that were directly opposite it to sag. Other than that, the printer has been mechanically sound, which is great.

    posted in General Discussion
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    coseng
    25 Jun 2022, 19:54
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    Happy 4th of July everybody.

    Those laydown prints of the front upper sides worked well. Here's a pic of the nearly finished product. All the red, white, and blue body panels were printed out. And the black seat 'pads'.

    20220704_154407.jpg

    I'm going to keep refining the slicer settings and printing more parts as I make updates to the design, but for now can consider this a completely successful printer build project.

    Thanks to the forum for all the suggestions and to the Duet3D crew for such an excellent product line.

    posted in General Discussion
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    coseng
    5 Jul 2022, 04:41
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    It's been a while, the printer has been working well, but am about to do another run of fairings so am going to try to improve it a bit.

    There is some waviness to tall and slender parts that increases as the parts get slimmer and taller in Z. Looking at it while printing, it seems that my construction of a carbon fiber Z carriage works against me in one way. I used high temp CF for its rigidity and low thermal expansion and high enough temp rating. This means that my Z carriage is pretty light, and at high printhead accelerations, can see a slight bit of movement that comes from not enough torsional stiffness of my z-axis rail/leadscrew wended frame. 20+ inch parts can get a visible wiggle at the top as the vibrations die down. I am not interested in tearing it all apart and having to do welding and realignment/reassembly, so am going to try to take the easy way out by putting a large steel weight on the bottom of the z carriage. A heavier carriage means less reaction displacement for a given printhead acceleration, hopefully stabilizing it and reducing the waviness. It is an easily done and undone modification, so pretty low risk.

    The waviness I am getting is not stepper induced oscillations as I am using servo/steppers which are silent and smooth.

    posted in General Discussion
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    coseng
    14 Aug 2024, 03:01
  • RE: Time line for Duet 3 6XD

    FYI, from @dc42 on 7/26/22:

    The first production 6XD boards are being shipped to resellers this week.

    posted in Using Duet Controllers
    undefined
    coseng
    26 Jul 2022, 17:37
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    @jens55 OK, thanks. Also received a reply from the BLTouch people:

    BLTouch can misunderstand the servo signal when the chamber temperature is over 65C. And an extension to the BLTouch push-pin is a good idea, but because it is not tested I can't surely tell you it might be okay. It might be better that you find a proper weight for your BLTouch by trial and error.

    That sounds promising, a tiny CF rod should do it.

    Chris

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    27 Apr 2021, 16:08
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    Making some progress with the build. It is all stripped down, the lower section is newly insulated, and the top section has the pass-through hole in the bottom cut. That hole makes it one big chamber for almost 1m of Z travel, 0.68m and 0.72m for XY.

    printer-progress.jpg

    We'll flip it and cut the same hole in the top which the motion subassembly will drop down into and be closed off with a y-axis bellows.

    cad-061521.jpg

    Each motor pair/y axis rail/belt pulley assembly base will be a rigid steel 2x3" angle that will be milled flat and mounted along the top of the housing. Each of these will be carefully aligned to keep everything parallel. The Z axis stage will be a separate assembly that bolts to the back wall of the chamber.

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    16 Jun 2021, 01:01

Latest posts made by coseng

  • For Sale: 680x624x920mm heated enclosure Duet3D based printer

    This large, Core XY heated enclosure printer was built to print full size motorcycle fairings in ABS/ASA and was used for several years but now the project is shutting down and the printer is up for sale.

    The build and its capabilities are documented on this thread:
    https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/22858/new-heated-enclosure-printer

    The specifics are:

    -680x624x920mm build volume
    -Duet 6HC main board and printhead uses the Tool Board 1LC
    -CoreXY design adapted from @mrehorstdmd design
    -complete mechanics and 2nd printhead included but not hooked up
    -heated chamber, not sure how hot it can get but has been used up to 60C.
    -heated 10mm aluminum bed with Keenovo heating element, used to 110C.
    -E3D supervolcano hot end and Aqua extruder
    -1.75mm filament and 0.8mm copper/diamondback nozzle
    -220VAC single phase power
    -clearpath stepper/servo XY motors, FAST and silent!
    -set up to use 1, 3, or 10kg spools from pushplastic.com
    -It is easy to make adapters to use any other supplier's spools
    -approximately 600lbs., all steel durable construction with sealed latching door with viewing window.

    It prints very reliably in ABS, ASA, and PC and has not been tested with anything else. I use Cura 4.1 as a slicer. I have printed a variety of part styles, from blocky parts with a large amount of 20-30% cubic infill to 4mm thick full size motorcycle fairings printed with 100% concentric infill. There are many print pictures in the build thread. The internal heated chamber components should be good to 110C+, but has not been tested past 110C bed and 60C chamber. Large ABS and ASA parts print with little to no warping. Full size motorcycle bodywork parts of various size and print orientations all bolt together with no hassle, so volumetric accuracy is good.

    The printer is being sold by Charles Smith, text or call 201-388-2986, but I am available for any technical questions.

    The printer is located in Jersey City, NJ in an industrial building with a loading dock.

    Regards,

    Chris Cosentino
    Cosentino Engineering

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    15 Apr 2025, 17:06
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    @dc42 Will do, thanks.

    Chris Cosentino
    Cosentino Engineering

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    15 Apr 2025, 16:42
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    Hi all, I've come to a crossroads in life and my bike project is being shut down. As a result, all of my equipment is up for sale, including this 3D printer.

    The print volume is 680x624x920mm and it is set up to use 1, 3, or 10kg spools from pushplastic.com It should be easy to make adapters to use any other spools less than 10kg in size.

    If anyone is interested, please browse through this thread which thoroughly details its components and printing ability.

    For more information please contact Ben Claman, ben@buoyant.aero.

    Thanks again to Duet3D and this forum for all the help in getting this beast to print well.

    Chris Cosentino
    Cosentino Engineering

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    8 Apr 2025, 17:52
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    @droftarts Wow, i feel stupid! I don't remember changing it but must have as it now loads. Thanks!

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    12 Nov 2024, 21:28
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    With the rework on the carriage I needed to redo the mesh compensation but am having problems loading heightmap.xls. I am using the G29 S1 command and getting the following console error:

    G29 S1
    Error: G29: Failed to load height map from file 0:/sys/heightmap.csv: bad header line or wrong version header

    This is the heightmap file:

    RepRapFirmware height map file v3 generated at 2017-07-21 20:53,
    axis0,axis1,min0,max0,min1,max1,radius,spacing0,spacing1,num0,num1
    X,Y,-310.00,315.00,-288.00,288.00,-1.00,156.25,144,5,5
    -0.46, -0.4, -.32, -0.25, 0.08
    -0.3, -0.25, -.2, 0., 0.1
    -0.02, 0.02, 0., 0., 0.02
    -0.3, -0.3, -0.25, -0.3, -0.35
    -.35, -0.36, -0.35, -.4, -.5

    I used to get the warning saying that it was loaded with Z not at zero so may be some offset, but it always worked. With this new error it is not loading at all. I didn't think i had changed anything in the heightmap file except the offset values. None of my older heightmaps load either, they all give the above error.

    I am using Duet Web Control 3.4.1 and the printer is a Duet 3 MB6HC (MB6HC) with 3.4.1 Firmware.

    Also, @dc42 is a negative value the bed being closer or further from the nozzle?

    Thanks,

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    12 Nov 2024, 21:00
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    I am going to print another set of bodywork and finish it out for a nice high gloss paint job but wanted to get some better surface finish to minimize the amount of hand finishing needed. The added weight did help, but in reality my Z axis support structure was lacking in torsinoal stiffness. I didn't think that there would be a need for high torsional stiffness, but I was wrong. As the printhead traverses back and forth over the part sometimes it slightly makes contact with previously printed material and causes the table to wobble back and forth.
    To fix this, I added an outboard table guide that is just a long straight piece of steel that a forked steel guide finger that bolts to the carriage engages with.

    20241112_153154.jpg

    That is a gear rack, but I only used it because it was ground straight and flat and was available. Moral of the story, design sufficiently rigid structures!

    It is a bit of a kludge, but it does work and significantly increases the torsional stiffness of the Z-axis. The parts did come out noticable better, especially the taller areas.

    20241112_153339.jpg

    As an additional note, we are using the Smooth-On XTC-3D product and am finding it works very well.

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    12 Nov 2024, 20:47
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    Well, the added weight to the Z carriage seems to have reduced the oscillations a bit which is great.

    I am a bit under the gun for our next race outing in October, so looked to outsource some of the fairing parts. So far, 4 out of 4 vendors have refused a quote as the parts are too thin and difficult! They all recommended sectioning them into multiple pieces and gluing together. When I said that the parts have been printed successfully multiple times in one piece on a home built printer, they were very surprised.

    On one hand those responses were pretty disappointing. I was expecting that industrial printers would be a step above what I hacked together. They are not. On the other hand it speaks volumes to the quality of product that Duet3D sells and the support from them and other users that is provided on this forum. Many thanks to everyone that has chimed in along the way, @dc42 and @mrehorstdmd in particular.

    I've also recently printed a few big, chunky parts that came out excellent with none of the artifacts the tall, thin fairing parts have. I guess I will focus more on bracing for the fairing parts to keep them from shaking during printing. Maybe more retracts will help too. I do notice a little noise when it is doing the infill, which is assume is the printhead hitting slightly high areas of the previous layer. I am also having some issues with the fill areas on the first couple of layers looking really fuzzy, which I think is over extrusion, but I reduce the flow down to about 70% and it looks the same. The parts come out fine and I am still time constrained, so am kicking that can well down the road.

    This is a pattern for a carbon fiber gas tank. Printed in two halves and glued together. About 3.5 gallon capacity. There was a slight bit of the print rising up from the build plate, but nothing major and easily taken care of when it is sanded and bondo'd to get a good surface finish to take a mold from. Also doing a mold for a bellypan that is coming out just as good.

    Screenshot_20240916_225102_Gallery.jpg

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    17 Sept 2024, 02:59
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    It's been a while, the printer has been working well, but am about to do another run of fairings so am going to try to improve it a bit.

    There is some waviness to tall and slender parts that increases as the parts get slimmer and taller in Z. Looking at it while printing, it seems that my construction of a carbon fiber Z carriage works against me in one way. I used high temp CF for its rigidity and low thermal expansion and high enough temp rating. This means that my Z carriage is pretty light, and at high printhead accelerations, can see a slight bit of movement that comes from not enough torsional stiffness of my z-axis rail/leadscrew wended frame. 20+ inch parts can get a visible wiggle at the top as the vibrations die down. I am not interested in tearing it all apart and having to do welding and realignment/reassembly, so am going to try to take the easy way out by putting a large steel weight on the bottom of the z carriage. A heavier carriage means less reaction displacement for a given printhead acceleration, hopefully stabilizing it and reducing the waviness. It is an easily done and undone modification, so pretty low risk.

    The waviness I am getting is not stepper induced oscillations as I am using servo/steppers which are silent and smooth.

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    14 Aug 2024, 03:01
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    @dc42 Thanks!

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    21 Dec 2022, 22:56
  • RE: New heated enclosure printer

    With this cold weather we're having my big industrial space is at least 15F colder than it was in spring/summer and the machine is misbehaving a bit. After a bunch of heater errors I had to rerun the heater optimization routines and think the bed 'shape' is a bit off as I am having first layer adhesion problems, but only on the corner of a big part. The first layer extrusion is mostly flat but is roundish where it is not adhering, so think the bed is drooping a bit. My bltouch is fried so I have been manually setting Z, but am not sure about the heightmap file format. I can use a plunge indicator mounted to the carriage to accurately map out the bed, but am not sure how the file entries are mapped to the bed.

    For the heightmap file below are the matrix entries, does the first entry of -.094 correspond to (maxX, maxY) or (minX, MinY)? Are rows X and columns Y? Does a negative value mean the print is closer or further from the printhead?

    RepRapFirmware height map file v2 generated at 2017-07-21 20:53,
    axis0,axis1,min0,max0,min1,max1,radius,spacing0,spacing1,num0,num1
    X,Y,-310.00,315.00,-288.00,288.00,-1.00,156.25,288.00,5,3
    -0.094, -0.047, -.020, -0.127, -0.18
    -0.094, -0.047, -.020, -0.127, -0.18
    -0.094, -0.07, -.010, -0.127, -0.18
    -0.10, -0.07, 0.000, -0.127, -0.18
    -0.10, -0.09, 0.010, -0.127, -0.2

    Thanks.

    posted in General Discussion
    undefined
    coseng
    20 Dec 2022, 21:54
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