@dc42 Thanks!
Posts made by coseng
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
With this cold weather we're having my big industrial space is at least 15F colder than it was in spring/summer and the machine is misbehaving a bit. After a bunch of heater errors I had to rerun the heater optimization routines and think the bed 'shape' is a bit off as I am having first layer adhesion problems, but only on the corner of a big part. The first layer extrusion is mostly flat but is roundish where it is not adhering, so think the bed is drooping a bit. My bltouch is fried so I have been manually setting Z, but am not sure about the heightmap file format. I can use a plunge indicator mounted to the carriage to accurately map out the bed, but am not sure how the file entries are mapped to the bed.
For the heightmap file below are the matrix entries, does the first entry of -.094 correspond to (maxX, maxY) or (minX, MinY)? Are rows X and columns Y? Does a negative value mean the print is closer or further from the printhead?
RepRapFirmware height map file v2 generated at 2017-07-21 20:53,
axis0,axis1,min0,max0,min1,max1,radius,spacing0,spacing1,num0,num1
X,Y,-310.00,315.00,-288.00,288.00,-1.00,156.25,288.00,5,3
-0.094, -0.047, -.020, -0.127, -0.18
-0.094, -0.047, -.020, -0.127, -0.18
-0.094, -0.07, -.010, -0.127, -0.18
-0.10, -0.07, 0.000, -0.127, -0.18
-0.10, -0.09, 0.010, -0.127, -0.2Thanks.
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
Hmm, IDEX is not as plug and play as I was hoping!
An alternate solution is to repurpose the extra UV Clearpath motors and build a CNC plasma cutter with them. They are more than strong enough to push a plasma gantry around pretty quickly and from what I can see with some friends that purchased stepper based tables, unless you spend well into the $10ks, the Duet control board seems to be a step up, and the Clearpath motors are two steps up! A 4'x4' CoreXY cutter would be pretty useful and more rigid than most of the table setups I see out there.
@dc42 , I saw some older threads about it but there never seemed to be any final results. Did you end up doing those software modifications you were talking about for the torch height control?
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/8403/advice-on-adding-plasma-torch-height-control/10
@fall-apart-dave @mawildoer @andymidtf
Did any of you ever make it to a working Duet-based machine? -
RE: New heated enclosure printer
@sebkritikel A rabbit hole is exactly what I am trying to avoid! Didn't see that Merlin firmware part, maybe they've made progress in the past year or 2?
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
@sebkritikel said in New heated enclosure printer:
Not quite ideal.......
Found this online which says IDEX support so will give it a try:
https://www.bcn3d.com/bcn3d-stratos/
https://support.bcn3d.com/knowledge/bcn3d-stratos-introductionIt is based on Cura so the settings should be familiar, and interestingly enough found a post online relating to native Cura IDEX support:
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
@mrehorstdmd said in New heated enclosure printer:
@coseng Try printing in wider lines and thinner layers. Prusa slicer will automatically adjust layer thickness based on overhang angle/detail (I think) if you enable it.
Hmm, so you think the bead is falling off the edge of the part before adhering? I am printing the outer wall last to try to prevent that and this part has 3 walls. It is small enough to test with and I can cut off the lower section to get right to the problem area. Maybe higher print temp too to make the bead 'stickier'?
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
I'd still like to tweak the settings to improve some of the print artifacts that are still happening if I knew what to tweak. Particularly on sloping underside surfaces.
This is a test fit part for a friend's vintage supercharged '53 Corvette that will be DMLS in aluminum from prtwd.com. This was a 4 hr print time. It will be a thin wall tube, but is easier to print as an infilled solid for mockup purposes.
I printed 3 of them and they all had consistent problems in the slightly sloping underside area.
To try to improve the finish of the area over the supports I increased the support roof from 1 to 2 layers and the support top looks nicer, but the part underside looks the same.
And there are print problems that are not above the support area.
These seem similar to the initial problems that were occuring back in the middle of the thread with the red and white panel-like parts. Those problems were never resolved, just avoided by changing the geometry. These parts are not thin or panel-like, but the printing quality problem has a similar look.
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
@deckingman said in New heated enclosure printer:
That depends on what you want to do.
I'd like the printer to print two copies of the same part at the same time, or print a part and it's mirror copy both at the same time.
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
@Phaedrux I am using Cura 4.13 now. Maybe it is time to check out the 5.2 as they also have another thin part slicing update to simulate injection molded parts, which is what my parts are (should be) like.
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
And also now that it seems to be stable and printing well, I'll try to get to adding the second printhead soon. Immediately it could be used to embed a colored logo to the parts.
Mirrors and duplicates would be nice for several of the fairing parts. Any recommendations on a slicer that handles CoreXYUV?
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
@Phaedrux said in New heated enclosure printer:
Seems like pretty bad under extrusion.
Yup, modified the extrusion steps/mm on a small print until it came out good. About 20% more. All the other settings remained the same. Not sure how this happened but I guess sloppy setting management is the most likely culprit.
The overall finish is decent, but I feel could be improved. The taller parts suffer from some sway during printhead rapid moves acceleration, which is a bit surprising as the overall printer is pretty heavy. The waviness is pretty minimal in the lower sections and becomes more noticable as you get taller in Z. Maybe I can stick some chunks of steel in the base and see if it reduces sway. I also think my attachment of the very rigid Z axis linear way/leadscrew assembly to the overall chassis could use more stiffness, but am a bit reluctant to dig into mechanicals as the parts are quite useable as-is. Just a good lesson to be learned (again) that in a 'machine tool', stiffness everywhere is important.
Another option could be to reduce the acceleration rate, as lots of these moves are long, so a small increase in acceleration time won't add that much to overall print time. That is a tough route to go, as I'm a racer at heart.
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RE: 1XD Closed Loop Servo Setup
I know you may have different hardware, but I have 2 Clearpath SDSK servo/steppers running from Duet step and direction outputs and they are providing awesome acceleration, no vibration and near zero noise at any speed.
They are a bit expensive and the specs are quite overkill, but they are highly recommended.
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
@phaedrux Ugh. I wonder why. Well, have to leave it as-is until next week and have some time to debug it.
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
Heaven to hell!
After the first round of printing I left the printer off for a couple of months, and now have some revisions to print.
Not sure what happened, but quality has taken a nosedive from previous results. Suspecting the PCD nozzle was an issue, I swapped back to the all copper but the results were the same. The blue parts were from an old spool. After a couple of bad ones, I baked it for a few hours at 65C but that did not improve things. I then tried a new spool of white and got a little better but still far from acceptable parts. I was using the same settings and for the blue parts tried importing the settings from the .gcode file of a previously successfully printed part. I even reran an old file with the same substandard results.
Any ideas on what could be going on? All the mechanicals seem to be tight. At the end of the 22hr white print (or any other print) there was no filament dust or shards at the pinch roller.
A single layer flat part prints fine.
I'm at a loss and tired of wasting filament.
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
Just starting another round of prints and was having some serious first layer adhestion problems that was traced back to the 8mm thick aluminum build plate developing a slight droop to it. The center of the bed is X0Y0 and X0 is still level from Y- to Y+, but both the entire Xmax and Xmin edges are drooping by about 0.25mm so the edges are low and the middle is high. I guess all the heat cycles have induced this dimensional change. Just after installation I had manually scanned it with a dial indicator and it was flat to a TIR of about .08mm with no obvious directionality to it.
I'm also having some issues with my BLTouch not being repeatable, so I manually created a 5x3 bed mesh compensation file and not it seems to work as it was. When I try to scan with the BL touch I get over well 1mm of variance, which is not backed up by a mechanical scan. Also, sometimes the BLtouch won't initialize properly. I have a 75mm extension on the probe, so the solenoid has a little extra mass to move, so instead of really debugging it I manually set Z using a G28 and not turn the printer off much.
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RE: Time line for Duet 3 6XD
FYI, from @dc42 on 7/26/22:
The first production 6XD boards are being shipped to resellers this week.
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RE: weird signal from duet to motor
@signpostman I was a little leery about trying to run all of my SDSK motors on the CANBUS because of concerns about max bus throughput/latency and high speed step loss, so I hand wired a step and direction output from the 6HC's backside test points. Because these signals are at 3.3V, they had to be jumped up to 5V, so instead of making my own breadboard level shifter, I used Duet's EBOB (used for Duet 2's) as a level shifter. My printer build thread (https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/22858/new-heated-enclosure-printer) has all the details needed and the tech help was provided by a couple of moderators, so though the soldering will void your warranty, it is an 'official' hack. FYI, Duet3D is coming out with a 6XD that has S+D outputs. Not sure of the timeline.
What I did was to tap into the 6HC's step and direction test points on the back of the board: https://forum.duet3d.com/post/231335, ran these to a ribbon cable connector glued to the back of the board, that then plugged in to the EBOB's 50 pin connector. The modifications to the EBOB are at https://forum.duet3d.com/post/279132, including some rewiring of the clearpath signal connector to get the (3) +5VDC lines to each motor. The mods to the back of the 6HC are shown at: https://forum.duet3d.com/assets/uploads/files/1649284036942-6hc-ext-stepper-mod.jpg.
All the wiring was correct but I needed to tweak the stepper timing signals using a M569 T2 line in the config file.
With a CoreXY setup and complete overkill CPM-SDSK-3421S-ELN motors, I have been able to run at 2000mm/sec rapid speeds with no step loss or any other weirdness. The SDSK motors are super quiet. Print speeds are around 200mm/sec with a 0.8mm nozzle with rapids limited to 600mm/sec. Above that speed the top bellows starts to behave erratically.
I've done about 400hrs of printing so far with no issues, so it seems to be a reliable solution.
Once you get them working, I think you will be very happy with their performance. I had Tom Tullar tom_tullar@teknic.com help me with some remote online servo parameter tuning, which gave a decent improvement (less noise, reduced follower error) over the default settings.
Hope this helps!
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
In the search for a little more print speed (I'm a racer for a reason.....) I did a little beta testing for the people making the print nozzle with a PCD insert tip, ChampionX.
https://www.championx.com/products-and-solutions/drilling-technologies/diamondback-nozzles/
It is not a coating, but a little chunk of industrial PCD that is inserted in the tip. It is hard as a natural diamond, but black. It also has a very high thermal conductivity, so will keep the filament as hot as possible right up to the nozzle exit. That is secondary though, as diamond's low friction properties for me are the main point of interest to reduce the effort needed to push melted filament out of the orifice. Less friction leaves more stepper torque available to put to use pushing filament out, which results in higher print speeds.
The company advertises the nozzle as resistant to abrasion with CF or glass filled or otherwise abrasive filaments. I did not test any of that, but considering it is diamond, would think it would last for a printer's life. They also mirror polish the flat tip so that the tops of prints come out really smooth. The visible parts of my prints are mostly the sides of the extrusion, so also did not test this aspect.
They have products for a bunch of nozzles and are coming out with a Volcano version, but not yet for a Supervolcano, so a bit of lathe work was needed to do a retrofit.
The brass nozzle on the right was used to verify the modifications before doing it to the more expensive copper nozzle on the left.
I tested at 240C printhead temp, which is my current ABS print temp. I lowered the bed to the bottom of travel and just ran the extruder using a G1 E200 FXXXX command.
Using the existing E3D copper/nickel plate supervolcano 0.8mm nozzle I normally run prints with a max extruder speed of 1200mm/min (150mm/sec print speed) which gives very consistent results with no filament dust on the hobbed drive wheel after 12hr prints. At 1500mm/min I start to get sporadic filament slippage but it still extrudes successfully. At 1800mm/min it will not start to extrude and just slips at the hobbed drive wheel.
With the Diamondback 0.8mm tip inserted in a copper nozzle I was able to get consistent extrusion with no filament grinding up to 1800mm/min. At 2000mm/min it would not start to extrude at all and sometimes got stepper stuttering, but at that speed it may also be bumping up against the stepper’s speed limits.
So the quick takeaway is that there is definitely a significant reduction in the force needed to extrude. Combined with essentially no wear, I think it is a no-brainer upgrade. I have no financial interest in this product.
I’ll keep the nozzle in there for the next series of prints and see if I can bump the print speed from 150mm/sec to 180-200mm/sec. Possibly faster for the support printing, as a little loss in quality there is a non-issue. Even a 10% or so speed increase would be great, and considering that the printer is essentially a 6000W heater, the PCD nozzle is also an energy/cost saver.
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RE: New heated enclosure printer
Happy 4th of July everybody.
Those laydown prints of the front upper sides worked well. Here's a pic of the nearly finished product. All the red, white, and blue body panels were printed out. And the black seat 'pads'.
I'm going to keep refining the slicer settings and printing more parts as I make updates to the design, but for now can consider this a completely successful printer build project.
Thanks to the forum for all the suggestions and to the Duet3D crew for such an excellent product line.
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RE: weird signal from duet to motor
I'm using a 6HC with Tecnik Clearpath SDSK stepper/servos and ended up tapping the step and direction signals from test points on the backside of the 6HC and running them through a Duet2 BoB to get them to the 5V levels inputs the Clearpath wants. It was a bunch of tedious hand work but the result has been rock solid. I agree with T3P3Tony that tapping one end of each motor coil is a weird setup.