It was indeed a loose grub screw on one of the xy plane motors. Machine is printing well again.

Thanks all.

It was indeed a loose grub screw on one of the xy plane motors. Machine is printing well again.

Thanks all.

@engikeneer

I can cause them to deflect, but not without quite a bit of force.

What should I be checking with pulleys? I already have it on my list to check the grubs on the two motor ones in the back from @Phaedrux's suggestion when I get the back panel back off. Basically just that?

Unrelated, but I am also a bit worried about Z, I noticed plastic debris resting and tangled with the leadscrew nut.

@generisi

I've tried with tools 1,2,3 all Hemera tools. They all produce exactly the same artifacts. So unless it's the gantry side that has the issue, I don't think this is play in the tool.

Here's a print from tool 3, notice how it's distortion in the top left quadrant exactly like the two I show with the annotated green lines.(made with tool 1)

and here's another of the original part without infill better showing perimeter distortion.

Going to have another play about with the mechanics of it today, belt tension, gantry squareness, etc.

@generisi

Fair on the lubricant I'll buy a suitable one. It's just all I had on hand at the time.

All my tools are currently the Hemera tool, which is something I only did a few months ago. I didn't notice any play when testing that, but actually on this specific tool the press fit insert in the tool block did fall out once... I should possibly check that.

It'll have to be tomorrow now. But I'll test the print again on tool 2 and 3 to see if it's the same. If it's not then it'll have to be down to the tool.

As for the possibility of it being skewed. Me messing around with the belt tension might have introduced that honestly, but it did still seem square within about 0.1mm when measured it against the frame on both sides. I'd just settle for it not shifting for the moment.

Hi, it's a bit of a strech to post this here I'll be honest. But this is the forum I've had the most luck with in the past.

I'm getting unusable prints out of my machine as of late, so far I've had no luck at all in figuring out what's wrong.

Before looking at what I've tried, so as to not prejudice potential new ideas/poison the well. Take a gander at these images.

Simplified Test Print, section with green line is shifted. As is the circular mount hole, which should have been concentric.

Back and front of original part.

Macro shots.

Macro shot, different tool. Different polymer.

The Machine: 2019 E3D toolchanger, running Duet 2 Wifi + Duex 5, RRF3.4.

I rebuilt all the tools and updated the firmware in January this year, but it's been seemingly working fine.

Machine Troubleshooting:

• Checked bed is secure.
• Checked wiring harness doesn't impinge on tool causing a deflection.
• Checked no play in tool itself.
• Checked no obstructions in belt path.
• Checked no obvious wear on belts.
• Checked x-gantry is square to within the best tolerances of my measuring tools.
• Cleaned x-rail with alchohol to clean dust and... 'seasoned' with some silicone lubricant.
• Increased belt tension*[1]

*[1] - bit of a shot in the dark, wanted to see if I got any result. Not really. It did seem to do something,

Firmware Troubleshooting:

• Updated from RRF3.3 to 3.4
• Reduced max accel, jerk, and motor speeds back to what I used to have in my archieved RRF2.x config the machine originally shipped with.

Slicer Troubleshooting:

• Reduced Speeds
• Tried a different tool.
• Disabled z-hop for retraction. (noticed the issue in the basic test was occuring after a large move with retraction/z-hop)

Any ideas?

This just shows that my time estimation skills are awful. @deckingman

It takes 31 seconds to go from 23C to 60C at full power. If 10 seconds is about 3 times overpowered, then funnily enough.. 31 seconds would be about right.

Okay, what's the proper solution to this if I still want to use the UPS? Wire the relay to a second IEC C14 power connector and power them independently? Or do I need to fork out for an 800W UPS?

@dc42 - yeah, 71.2 omhs measured across the bed power.

I mean... sorry to concern you all. It says right on the heater 240V, 800W. 2400W was a guess based on what the maximum I thought it could even be since it wasn't blowing any fuses on tripping any breakers.

I didn't time that 10 seconds, I just know it heats up to 60C fast.

I'll run it off the mains without the UPS and time it, I used to have a power meter, but that's gone walkies.

Yeah, that did the trick. I think the relay I am using is 10A, so at 240v. Max power draw would be 2,400W. 500/2400 gives me roughly 20%.

Tried P0.2 and it works a charm, no more tripping the overload alarm.

It's obviously a lot slower now, but I still think it's heating up faster than my other printers. I can live with it.

Thanks.

I have one of E3D's high temp heatbeds. Which is fine, in isolation my machine has no issue with it.

The problem is I like to run my machines off a UPS, and the poor 500W UPS gets very cross at me during bed heat up, constant-tone. The bed will go from room temperature to 60C in about 10 seconds, so it's not like I have to deal with the tone for long... but deliberately overloading my UPS doesn't quite sit right with me.. and buying a more expensive, more appropriate UPS just for these 10 seconds seeems silly.

So, I think I need to either need to find a way to current limit it. Or to do what I'm thinking is more likely, just have the duet tell it to heat up slower. And then just deal with the slightly longer heat up time.

How would I go about that?