It was indeed a loose grub screw on one of the xy plane motors. Machine is printing well again.
Thanks all.
It was indeed a loose grub screw on one of the xy plane motors. Machine is printing well again.
Thanks all.
I can cause them to deflect, but not without quite a bit of force.
What should I be checking with pulleys? I already have it on my list to check the grubs on the two motor ones in the back from @Phaedrux's suggestion when I get the back panel back off. Basically just that?
Unrelated, but I am also a bit worried about Z, I noticed plastic debris resting and tangled with the leadscrew nut.
I've tried with tools 1,2,3 all Hemera tools. They all produce exactly the same artifacts. So unless it's the gantry side that has the issue, I don't think this is play in the tool.
Here's a print from tool 3, notice how it's distortion in the top left quadrant exactly like the two I show with the annotated green lines.(made with tool 1)
and here's another of the original part without infill better showing perimeter distortion.
Going to have another play about with the mechanics of it today, belt tension, gantry squareness, etc.
Fair on the lubricant I'll buy a suitable one. It's just all I had on hand at the time.
All my tools are currently the Hemera tool, which is something I only did a few months ago. I didn't notice any play when testing that, but actually on this specific tool the press fit insert in the tool block did fall out once... I should possibly check that.
It'll have to be tomorrow now. But I'll test the print again on tool 2 and 3 to see if it's the same. If it's not then it'll have to be down to the tool.
As for the possibility of it being skewed. Me messing around with the belt tension might have introduced that honestly, but it did still seem square within about 0.1mm when measured it against the frame on both sides. I'd just settle for it not shifting for the moment.
Hi, it's a bit of a strech to post this here I'll be honest. But this is the forum I've had the most luck with in the past.
I'm getting unusable prints out of my machine as of late, so far I've had no luck at all in figuring out what's wrong.
Before looking at what I've tried, so as to not prejudice potential new ideas/poison the well. Take a gander at these images.
Simplified Test Print, section with green line is shifted. As is the circular mount hole, which should have been concentric.
Back and front of original part.
Macro shots.
Macro shot, different tool. Different polymer.
The Machine: 2019 E3D toolchanger, running Duet 2 Wifi + Duex 5, RRF3.4.
I rebuilt all the tools and updated the firmware in January this year, but it's been seemingly working fine.
Machine Troubleshooting:
*[1] - bit of a shot in the dark, wanted to see if I got any result. Not really. It did seem to do something,
Firmware Troubleshooting:
Slicer Troubleshooting:
Any ideas?
This just shows that my time estimation skills are awful. @deckingman
It takes 31 seconds to go from 23C to 60C at full power. If 10 seconds is about 3 times overpowered, then funnily enough.. 31 seconds would be about right.
Okay, what's the proper solution to this if I still want to use the UPS? Wire the relay to a second IEC C14 power connector and power them independently? Or do I need to fork out for an 800W UPS?
@dc42 - yeah, 71.2 omhs measured across the bed power.
I mean... sorry to concern you all. It says right on the heater 240V, 800W. 2400W was a guess based on what the maximum I thought it could even be since it wasn't blowing any fuses on tripping any breakers.
I didn't time that 10 seconds, I just know it heats up to 60C fast.
I'll run it off the mains without the UPS and time it, I used to have a power meter, but that's gone walkies.
Yeah, that did the trick. I think the relay I am using is 10A, so at 240v. Max power draw would be 2,400W. 500/2400 gives me roughly 20%.
Tried P0.2 and it works a charm, no more tripping the overload alarm.
It's obviously a lot slower now, but I still think it's heating up faster than my other printers. I can live with it.
Thanks.
I have one of E3D's high temp heatbeds. Which is fine, in isolation my machine has no issue with it.
The problem is I like to run my machines off a UPS, and the poor 500W UPS gets very cross at me during bed heat up, constant-tone. The bed will go from room temperature to 60C in about 10 seconds, so it's not like I have to deal with the tone for long... but deliberately overloading my UPS doesn't quite sit right with me.. and buying a more expensive, more appropriate UPS just for these 10 seconds seeems silly.
So, I think I need to either need to find a way to current limit it. Or to do what I'm thinking is more likely, just have the duet tell it to heat up slower. And then just deal with the slightly longer heat up time.
How would I go about that?
Oh..
okay, yes - that's all this was.
I don't know why you're answering idiot questions at 10pm, but I'm glad you are.
Thanks!
I recently got hold of E3D's toolchanger platform, on first power up I noticed I couldn't get all but one of the hotend fans to spin.
The way the machine is structured is it allocates 2 fan pins per tool, one for the heatbreak cooling and one for the part cooling fan. If I swap the connectors for the part cooling fans with the heatbreak fans all the heatbreak fans come on. It also turns out the one that was spinning was wired wrong, I had the PCF and HE fan's switched, though, interestingly that part cooling fan is fully dead, as in I can't get it to spin even on a bench supply, it takes no current.
So, I broke out a multimeter and measured the output from the duet.
M107 (P0 to P8)
Pin Voltages -
Duet
P0 0.6-0.8v
P1 0.6-0.8v
P2 0v
Duex
P3 0.6-0.8v
P4 0v
P5 0.6-0.8v
P6 0v
P7 0.6-0.8v
P8 0v
M106 (P0 to P8) S255
Pin Voltages -
Duet
P0 0.6-0.8v
P1 0.6-0.8v
P2 24v
Duex
P3 0.6-0.8v
P4 24v
P5 0.6-0.8v
P6 24v
P7 0.6-0.8v
P8 24v
What's likely happened here?
Alright. I made the suggested changes. I've not tried printing with it yet, but here's the results. And yeah, my probing macros are weird, they were originally just 4 corner tests for probing the distance at the corners, back when I had a screw adjustable bed. It's now fixed in place using washers.
Front
Right
Back
Left
Still definitely has a curvature to it near the edges, which you wouldn't think likely for a piece of glass.
Curvature
Firmware?
Main firmware 2.02 at the moment. But I've had the issue since I built the machine, which would have been 1.17.
DWC 1.22.6
The macros are nothing special.
;end probe
M280 P3 S160 I1
;probe near left.
G1 Z10 F6000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
;G0 X0 Y-10
G0 X0 Y0
M280 P3 S10 I1
G30 S-1
As for why I'm setting z to 0.9. I can't rememebr my reasoning for this, I think it's because if I don't then homing fails on account of z being a negative value when the probe completes.
I'll have to test that later.
I've been having issues getting a good first layer to span my entire bed.
The machine is an i3 style cartesian machine, glass bed, and has a bl touch. Which I am using as both the z stop and probe. (p3steel frame, e3d titan aero (gantry is 3D printed, held on with zip ties)
config.g : https://pastebin.com/VrEz3pKg
homeall.g :https://pastebin.com/2VRW9rK6
I built it a year ago or so, I can get away with fairly small prints, as I can just find a decent average for the bed height, and it works. However, if I want a print that spans the bed, I'll have patches where the nozzle is either too high, so leave gaps, or parts where it's too low and drags material.
I have been using the mesh bed compensation for a while, and it helps a bit. But not drastically
I've gone through a few things, I've replaced the bed, I've replaced all the rods (and bearings). (I considered that it might be sag in the gantry, but if it was sag, why would the bump be in positive..)
I thought I should probably stop living with it, and finally get some advice on how to remedy this.
Front
Right
Back
Left
(also, while I'm here. It thinks the bed is offset significantly in z - because the probe is the z stop, I guess it's applying the offset before it sets the z height. Any way to fix this, just so the visualisation makes sense?)
That would be direct from the shop on this site. I'll wait until you're all back in hours on the 2nd.
Issue didn't occur when using E1 as the Y axis driver.
It did print on a weird part of the bed, but it sounds like the bed just got caught on the wire for the heated bed. So I'll have to do some repeat tests, and I'll have to actually calibrate my machine now that its possible to do so. But yeah, that seems to be the problem, the Y driver is faulty somehow.
Firmware as reported is 1.19 (could have swore I put 1.20 on it)
At idle:
Never used ram: 7448
Supply voltage: min 12.4, current 12.5, max 12.6, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0
In operation, with issue present:
Never used ram: 3232
Supply voltage: min 11.6, current 12.5, max 12.7, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0
Edit:
upgrading the firmware to 1.20 made no difference.
Hmm. Maybe?
I'll try recrimping the y motor connector. While it doesn't feel hot to the touch, I feel like I has to be something like that, because from cold it works for a few layers before it goes awry.
And remapping the E1 as Y would just be changing an #define in the firmware? Is it straight forward enough to compile it?
I've posted here before, with more or less this issue. I thought it might be worth writing a more clear description of my issue and what steps I've taken so far. As I'm still at a loss.
Here's what happens, I'll start a print, it may print as intended for a little while but at some point, usually no more than a few layers in, the machine will make a violent oscillating motion with its axes, most noticeably the Y axis. A horrendous grinding sound ensues from the stepper motors.
While this is happening, if I pause the print.. The X axis will lurch violently to the side before coming to rest, resuming the print just resumes the problem. Interestingly, while paused if I place my palm on the print bed I can move it around, with some (more than unpowered), but a lot resistance than you'd normally get from an active but idle stepper i.e it is physically possible to move it. This also produces a grinding sound.
I know that people have this printer working (Wanhao Duplicator i3 (my version is v2.1)) with a Duet board, but from what I can tell these people have earlier versions of the machine.
Here's what I've tried so far, in the config.g file; varying the stepper current within a range of about 700mA - 1000mA, varying the max instantaneous travel, to as low as about 280 down from 480. Without any success.
Some other troubleshooting steps which might be worth noting; moving the axes around with the machine unpowered is very smooth, I seriously doubt this is a mechanical problem, the machine before the Duet never had this issues. Moving the axes around while powered using the web interface almost always is smooth, but I have noticed sometimes it will behave similarly to the issue described above, though as to when it will do this is highly inconsistent and difficult to replicate. I have also tried multiple different 3D models generated from couple of different slicers (cura and slic3r) and a whole variety of settings, that didn't seem to change a thing.
I think that somehow, in some way the configuration I have for the steppers is wrong. But I don't know enough about electronics to rectify this, I'm going to put as much information out as I can in the hopes that someone here can help me, because I have no idea at this point.
Here are the stepper models.
X Motor, Y Motor and E Motor.
Moons' Stepping Motor
Type C17HD40102-01N
Z Motors
Moons' Stepping Motor
Type C17HD6039-05N
Here is my config.g file.
; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.17 to 1.19)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Fri Dec 15 2017 16:55:26 GMT+0000 (GMT Standard Time)
; General preferences
M111 S0 ; Debugging off
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates…
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X200 Y200 Z180 S0 ; Set axis maxima
; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 Z1 S0 ; Set active low endstops
M558 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 H5 F120 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to switch, the axes for which it is used and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z2.5 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X25:175 Y25:175 S20 ; Define mesh grid
; Drives
M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 goes backwards
M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; set 16x microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z400 U400 E100 ; set axis steps/mm E96
M566 X480 Y280 Z12 U12 E120 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X12000 Y12000 Z1200 U1200 E3000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X800 Y800 Z100 U100 E5000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X700 Y700 Z351 E855 I30 ;Set motor currents
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout
; Heaters
M305 P0 T100000 B3988 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
; Network
M550 Pwanhao-di3 ; Set machine name
M552 S1 ; Enable network
; Access point is configured manually via M587 by the user
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet
; Fans
M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
; Custom settings are not configured
; Miscellaneous
T0 ; Select first tool