Topics created by cap

I think I would reach max 110 if I put the electronics with the screen on top, less otherwise.
Thanks. Once I start wiring … the fun will start (hoping the duet will work 🙂 )

Make sure you get aluminium tooling plate because that will be guaranteed flat. Also, the glass needs to be float glass because that also is flat (horticultural glass my be rolled glass and isn't flat). Furthermore, don't be tempted to have the glass toughened - it may be safer but the toughening process can make the glass bow (I know from experience).

If you build it right, with 3 point levelling you'll have no need for any sort of bed compensation. I've got to the stage where I can just power up the machine, select an object and hit print. No pre - print checks or setting up required (well maybe a quick squirt of 3DLac). The start gcode heats the bed, homes the axes, heats the hot end away we go.

HTH
Ian

yes that was it
now looks like this
M92 X87.489 Y87.489 Z400 E420 ; Set steps per mm

please feel free to delete this post

You can use bossac.exe from the Tools folder of my github repo under Windows 10. I need to update the instructions, or else build a new version of bossa.

more of metal frame than enclosure

If you enable that option on the settings page, there should be a slider in the "Print Control" panel. I'll move that slider to a dedicate panel in my next DWC version though.

thank-you only thing is one motor was working back to front quick power down and turn the motor wire around sorted it out but thanks for all the help
now to do some reading on tuning heaters