Hi All, thought an update was in order, my eagle print is ready to roll. Have a look here if you're interested!
Thought the community might be interested in my largest print to date. The polar printer is really getting there now. Feel free to comment on the video via YT, it'll help get my channel back up and running too!
Anyway seasons greetings one and all!
All the best
@too you could put M98 P"LayerChange.g" in your slicer layer change settings, and create a LayerChange.g macro to define the behaviour locally.
At least that would mean you could change that behaviour globally without having to re-slice your code.
This is my polar printer, it's down for a bed bearing upgrade at the moment, but she's definitely running and the duet's working a treat.
Working volume is 570mm diameter by 1150mm tall.
Here's some footage of her in action...
The YouTube playlist for the build so far is here:
My channel is www.YouTube.com/CNCModellerUK
I'm hoping to come to TCT so will drop by the stall. If you want some better pictures just let me know!
Well don't you just love it when a plan comes together!
The D4S is now operational and I'm running through retraction and PA test prints. Just the inevitable tinkering and tuning to go.
Duet2 with a Thermocouple daughter board to take the OEM K type sensors, 12864 display. Waiting for a 5v supply so I can disable the electronics cooling fans when a print is finished by turning off the power supply. Water cooling is triggered by nozzle heater block temps. OEM heated bed works fine once I figured out the wiring.
Just ordered a couple of refurbished Duet2 boards for my D5S and laser cutter, that should keep me busy over the winter months!
All the Best
Kudos for your pioneer work, but if I had to print tall objects, I'd go for a Delta. Because they're easier to align and they don't know about singularities in bed center.
Thanks for the kudos, my issue with Delta is how tall they are for the print height. I wanted something that'll fit in a domestic setting i.e. 600mm wide doorways and lower ceilings, and since I'm mostly printing hollow things the singularity isn't much of an issue for me.
It's the print volume to printer volume ratio that sold me on polar. Plus what engineer doesn't relish the opportunity to figure something cool out from almost scratch lol.
Enjoy your fudge lol.
All the best
Snap! Great minds... Lol.
Now I've got multiple power supplies and the new one is running 48v max 10A I thought it was time to get a proper safety switch included.
Do I get extra credit for the printed back box for the BRB?
@nuramori on klipper its a run once and remove from the system thing until you change something.
not sure if it will be used in the same way here or not
My understanding is also that it's a run once to characterise the resonance of the printer.
Input shaping is an open loop approach as far as I understand.
However, the accelerometer needs to be rigidly secured to the print head to accurately measure the printers characteristics so a dedicated mount IMO is a good idea.
That's not to say we won't find other uses for an accelerometer in the the future of course!!
The temperature is a little noisy as @dc42 suggested, it wanders +- 1 or 2 deg .
Does it happen with the bed rotating? Slip rings tend to produce noise too, so in many occasions a single signal is transmitted by two or more slip rings in parallel. That way the noise is cancelled out.
Hi @o_lampe, the slip ring sends CAN and 240v to the SammyC21 and heater so this shouldn't be an issue. I'm just testing at the moment however and the slip ring isn't being used yet.
Many thanks for the tip though.
The pwm on the SammyC21 pin pa12 isn't zero when the board is initialised.
Try adding a 10K or 4K7 pulldown resistor between the pin and ground.
The temperature is a little noisy as @dc42 suggested, it wanders +- 1 or 2 deg . Is there anything I can do to clean it up? Perhaps a capacitor from signal to ground?
Yes, that may help.
Thanks @dc42, the capacitor has helped it now wanders consistently with the nozzle reading so I'm ok with that, will try another bed heater autotune tomorrow.
Unfortunately my 5k6 pulldown resistor doesn't seem to make much difference.
I'll ponder some more tomorrow, time for tea!
Many thanks again,
After quite an interlude I've got all the parts for my heated bed and am in the process of testing my setup.
For general information here's a picture and a couple of things that I've noticed worth passing on / discussion.
The pwm on the SammyC21 pin pa12 isn't zero when the board is initialised. It drops to 0% as soon as the board is connected to can and configured. I was thinking of adding a relay to isolate the 240v until setup is complete. Is this something we tend to worry about or should I just accept short transients during startup?
The temperature is a little noisy as @dc42 suggested, it wanders +- 1 or 2 deg . Is there anything I can do to clean it up? Perhaps a capacitor from singal to ground? I'm using pa08 for the thermistor and a 33k series resistor as @dc42 suggested.
The SammyC21 takes several seconds to initialise so a longer dwel during start-up is required to allow it to start before sending commands.
I've also got this error when auto tuning, the tune is complete, I'm guessing its because of the noisy temperature signal:
Warning: heater behaviour was not consistent during tuning Auto tuning heater 0 completed after 3 idle and 25 tuning cycles in 1207 seconds. This heater needs the following M307 command: M307 H0 R2.979 K10.675:0.000 D3.48 E1.35 S1.00 B0
these are my sensor and heater setup commands from config.g
M308 S0 P"124.pa08" Y"thermistor" R33000 T100000 B4138 M950 H0 C"124.pa12" T0
The slip ring is fitted, just about to start final assembly.
Anyway at least som progress now...
Any constructive thoughts would be great!
All the best
Hi, you can change the machine Name in config.g with the M550 P“machinename“
This Name ist shown in the Top of the DWC.
Thanks @MichaelKallner I am aware of that, and my machines are all named differently, but it doesn't really make much of a difference when you're skipping between several machines running concurrently, it's very easy to make a mistake.
Is there any way to change the colours of the DWC background or the header to make it cleared which machine I'm looking at?
I'm now running 3 printers and a laser sometimes concurrently and TBH I've hit cancel on the wrong machine more than once!! When I was just running 2 machines I simply had one set to dark mode and one set to normal.
Any constructive thoughts would be much appreciated!!!
@CNCModeller we have discussed the concept of attaching a screen to the CAN FD bus in a similar way to how the PanelDue is attached via UART. That screen would need to have sufficient space for the UI (PanelDue like, 12864 like or otherwise) locally and then update is a method similar to the panel due (data from the the object model in one way or another).
I don't think tunneling SPI (or UART) over the CAN bus is the way to go.
Thanks for the input @T3P3Tony
@jay_s_uk I think the suggestion is to in effect remote the SPI device over CAN. I'm sure that could be done, however I've no idea what impact that would have on other CAN devices or how well the display would work (currently the Duet3 runs the CAN-FD bus at 1Mbit/S, typically SPI toa display runs at 2MBit/S plus there will be the additional overhead ).
Running the UART interface (used for the panelDue interface) would probably be simpler. But in that case it might just be easier to just use a UART connection....
The scart cable I'm using is expensive so a couple of Arduinos and a twisted pair would likely be cheaper.
Will report back if I get anywhere.
the other limit for the 12864 display would be how to serve the menu pages etc as there would be no local storage.
Apologies if this is a daft question, but could the 12864 header pins not "just" be replicated on the Sammy? I don't understand why that would require local storage? Obviously "just"= sending pin data over CAN and repurposing all of the pins with new firmware, so not exactly simple.
I only ask as I'm using CAN on another project and it's making my life so much easier than using old school wiring looms.
Anyway just thinking out loud.
I'd like to remote mount a 12864 display, I've used screened scart cable in the past but was wondering if I could redefine the pins on a Sammy C21 as a set of 12964 display headers? Or perhaps a panel due could be connected that way too? I've had a look at the Sammy reference but I'm getting the impression it's only really intended for normal IO.
Any constructive thoughts would be much appreciated.
All the best