Here's what I've been building for the past few months:
Ultimaker-like gantry, bed on Z with dual leadscrews. A flexible shaft worm driven extruder on a hacked-up Titan Aero. One-handed nozzle swaps. Duet 2 WiFi. Some other bells and whistles.
Read more about it here: https://eleccelerator.com/hephaestus-my-own-3d-printer/ , it's a long page, printed out it covers 70+ pages
We got about three possibilities here:
Have a look at the schematics
FAN0 is controlling TR5, which is the MOSFET. The MOSFET is a PMV40UN2, so go download that datasheet. Locate the "D" pin, which is the Drain pin of the MOSFET. This pin should be connected to J25, which is the fan connector. Use a multimeter in continuity check mode to see if D is connected to the NEGATIVE SIDE of J25 at all. If it is not then you likely put a lot of current through a PCB trace and caused it to break somewhere. But it also means you might be able to fix it by simply soldering a wire between the D pin and J25. This covers the first possibility.
There are two resistors near TR5, R24 and R42. I would do another test now, measure the voltage where R24 meets R42. Turn on FAN0 (using gcode), the measurement should be around 3.3V. Turn off FAN0, the measurement should be around 0V. If it doesn't do that, then you are boned, because the GPIO is not working.
If it does work in the previous test, then great. It means the microcontroller can still control that pin. Next step is to simply replace the MOSFET. If you can get one, then great. They are listed on Digi-Key at $0.57 each, shipping should be about $4 to most of USA. You've got no excuse.
The package of TR5 should be a SOT23, which is large enough that you can cut the legs off with a knife (being careful not to damage the PCB underneath). Once the legs are cut, use a soldering iron to move the remaining half of the leg off the PCB pad. After that, solder in a new MOSFET. You might need to watch a few tutorials on surface mount soldering first but trust me it's easy, you just need the proper tools, like a tweezer, thin solder, and a pointy soldering iron tip.
Appendix: If you can't buy the exact part but can get something else, then make sure it has the appropriate ratings. I would focus on the following ratings: (follow along in the PMV40UN2 datasheet if you are wondering how to find these specs)
Mind if I jump in and suggest simply using a remote desktop application? I use Chrome Remote Desktop, which uses my Google account. Works anywhere in the world and on any OS, including Android.
I have used extra fan pins to control a bi-colour LED.
I have a single script file for starting a print and a single script file for ending a print, I could easily have different colours for those four statuses you mentioned by writing the LED commands into the scripts
this is not really reading the status, it's more about how you are always in control of what status you are in, because you wrote the gcode files that run before/after every print
of course this won't turn on the LED red just because you've manually enabled the bed heater without actually starting a print... but for 99% of use cases, it works
edit: another idea is to just intercept the communication between PanelDue and the Duet with a microcontroller, or rather, make that microcontroller poll the status of Duet via UART commands. This will get you much more information, but requires a lot more hardware.
@mrehorstdmd said in Finished my first DIY: Hephaestus the 3D Printer:
Looks great, but I cringe every time I see those spring tensioners on the belts...
Yea my friend said the same thing, I can easily design another plastic block that have a midway split to give it a non-springy tension.
The sliding blocks do have a screw to tighten the belt but they are at their limits already. It's way too difficult to assemble the gantry if I attempted to bring the belt in another tooth.
If you are about to tell me that the spring style tensioners are not actually doing anything because they are on the other side of the belt, that's not the case here, because the pulleys on the non-driven ends are actually not secured to the rod (set screws removed), so the tension actually transfers through the whole belt and not just the bottom half.
@phaedrux said in Finished my first DIY: Hephaestus the 3D Printer:
Great splash screen on the PanelDue.
I don't suppose you have links to the STLs of the dragon and lion statues you've shown printed?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:305752
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1351967 (modified by me with ThinkerCAD to be support-less, I got rid of the dangling ball, added a base, gave the teeth a rod-like supports, printed at an angle, with the "make overhang printable" setting in Cura enabled), modified model by me is here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jQfYaCHhxO1
M564: Limit axes
Parameters
Hnnn H1 = forbid movement of axes that have not been homed, H0 = allow movement of axes that have not been homed (firmware 1.21 and later)
Snnn S1 = limit movement within axis boundaries, S0 = allow movement outside boundaries
You are missing the H0
Personally I think you'll get away with just using Adobe Illustrator/Fireworks/Inkscape to redraw it all. It doesn't have to be exact. You got like 4 main screens to replicate and a few modal dialogs. It sounds like a pain in the ass... but you really only need to do this once, and then replace text and colours in the elements. It's a lot more forgiving when you make a mistake too.
Otherwise mount a GoPro in front of the actual LCD, and have instructional videos instead of just pictures. I'm sure you've already thought about this one
A few really "fun" technical approaches:
Both of those approaches are overengineering, but the second one might be nice for Duet's own QC purposes.
I have two Taranis RC radios that run OpenTX. You can emulate every single thing on it from the PC.
I got as small board from Amazon that was a ESP32 with a OV2640 camera integrated, and has a USB-C port for power and flashing, cost about $20 on Prime 1-day. Apparently the same setup can be obtained for under $10 if you order from China (eBay/AliExpress/etc)
![0_1555127277236_ESP32-Camera-Board-Battery-Support[1].jpg](/assets/uploads/files/1555127277183-esp32-camera-board-battery-support-1.jpg)
The software setup was pretty easy, I've worked with Espressif chips before so it was extra easy for me.
EDIT: uploaded example of sketch folder, showing where the sketch and libraries are located, change contents inside wifikeys.h with SSID and password https://github.com/frank26080115/HephaestusConfig/blob/master/other/esp32cam_sketchbook.zip
then it looks like...
(uh... can somebody please fix the sizing of the dialog when the image is rotated? thanks)
cheaper and less complicated than a Raspberry Pi, cheaper than really any WiFi camera out there that DWC would support. horrible camera though...
@dennishall said in Duet webcam:
I haven't yet done this as I'm probably going to figure out how to make use of my AruCam(s), but here is a setup that seems to have worked: https://forum.duet3d.com/post/90344
by the way that setup works with a continuous stream, not just a still image, with the live stream you need to set the URL without the "jpg" and enable the iframe feature in Duet Web Control
edit: i edited the original post to have a line saying how
I think the best course of action is to have RRF only output one message, and subsequent identical messages are suppressed.
This should be a rule of thumb for any system that can possibly generate messages from a function that have automatic retries.
could it be related to https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/issues/274 ?
try again with a really big file, see if that makes a difference
Hey I'm building a 3D printer, there's a Duet WiFi and a Mean Well LRS-350-24 powering it, the frame is mostly T-slot aluminum beams with some aluminum plates. The PSU is mounted to one such plate.
The Duet WiFi is connected to a separate secondary SD card slot, mounted in a plastic panel. This works, I can list the files, all is well.
Then I tried to remove the card... and I felt a static electric shock. I was sitting in a nylon covered chair wearing the cheapest T-shirt I own. The Duet still works. The card still works.
Electrical ground of the Duet is not directly connected to the Earth ground explicitly. Should I?
If my theory is correct, doing so will NOT prevent me from getting static shocks in the future. Am I correct? The charges will want to go somewhere regardless of Earth ground.
Unless, of course, the charges were built up on the printer. The small plastic panel is a piece of PLA mounted to an aluminum beam. If this is the case, how do I make sure charges don't build up on the PLA panel?
Thanks
The new dark theme, there's a tiny issue, when you close a small dialog (for example, change speed during print), it leaves some of the border behind, just a tiny line on the right side. I am using a 5i.
it happens with other dialogs as well
you can see it on Phaedrux's picture too
99% sure Vlad uploaded the source code zip file instead of the release zip file
I've got 12V LED strips on my printer, the 12V comes from a 24V PSU fed into a DC step down converter to get the 12V
The problem is simply the LEDs are dimming once in a while, probably because I've driving a 200W bed heater
It'll be nice to see a plot of the PWM duty cycle and voltage on a plot. Not just for my rather inconsequential problem, but it would help people identify if they've got a poor high resistance connection somewhere in the circuit, or identify bad PSUs that have bad voltage regulation, or plain overloaded
edit: I corrected circle to circuit, blaming autocorrect
Ok thanks. I checked continuity everywhere and all is grounded except DC negative. I have the Duet on brass standoffs on the aluminum panel so this should be super easy to accomplish.
However, the microUSB connector does not appear to be connected to the ground plane. I have a panel mounted USB extender that is connected to it. I guess it would be grounded to a computer's chassis but that's only when a computer is hooked up. Should I add a ground wire to the microUSB connector? Yes I understand it might make one giant ground loop the size of a room if the computer is also earth grounded.
My camera is only 2MP so it'll suck at really showing me how good a layer is. At most it will be used to detect spaghetti prints while I am away. With that in mind, it's more convenient for me to mount it on the top front corner of my printer looking downwards. If I wanted a good timelapse, I actually have a clip on GoPro mount that has a flexible arm.
You'll be happy to know that the ESP cam connects insanely fast. The source code I linked only supports one WiFi access point, but it should be trivial to support multiple by doing a scan and checking against a list.
But obviously if your Duet and ESP are not on the same network then you might not get the image.
I actually recently got a portable travel router that can extend a network but under its own name, it also doubles as a network drive, and it has a switch on the side that's configured to turn ON/OFF my VPN, cost about $60 and runs off USB 5V power. It's nice to have when you are doing IoT stuff.
Looking at the datasheet for the level shifter there (CD74HC4050), it says you can power it with 2V to 6V.
At 4.5V power, the minimum voltage required for a logic high is 3.15V. That feels way too close to 3.3V if you want reliability at different temperatures, system loads, and cable lengths. At 5V or even 6V, that 3.15V becomes even higher, maybe even over 3.3V, making it impossible to be used. At 6V power, that minimum is 4.2V!
For the transistors inside this chip, the rule is that the minimum logic high input level is about 70% of the input power.
But since the Duet has 3.3V power, if you powered the CD74HC4050 with 3.3V, that number becomes much lower. 70% of 3.3V is about 2.3V. I think this could be reliable.
So if you already purchased it, try it out, it should work, but only if you connect the power input pin to 3.3V, NOT 5V.
It's easy to bypass the level shifter if you need to. Desolder it first (use a hot air gun, or cut each leg individually with a knife), then simply use 30 gauge wires to bridge each input to the corresponding output.
My own build uses a SparkFun SD card breakout that does not have any level shifter. It works great. I like full sized SD way more.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12941
If you want something dirt cheap, then just get a plastic microSD to SD adapter, and solder wires to it.
I spent the day adding a USB port panel to my printer, and mounted my camera using two pieces of plastic and a section of flexible coolant hose
I have a dynamic button on my Duet, for one example, when a print starts, it is configured for trigger6
trigger6 contains a command for pause
pause contains a command to reconfigure the button for trigger7
trigger7 contains a command for resume
resume contains a command to reconfigure the button for trigger6
etc etc
should be easy to do it for LED stuff
