Posts made by frank26080115

I have a printer, running great for a few years, it uses a PT100 sensor on the nozzle. It's the E3D brand purchased from Filastruder, so it's the one that comes with Molex Micro-Fit connectors. I use the included pigtail so to avoid doing my own crimps.

A long time ago, I had problems when the print would halt due to a sudden spike in temperature. That was identified as a problem with a bad crimp with the included pigtail. It was easy to fix, I cut it off and used soldering to splice in a new one. And things were fine for another year or so.

This week, turning on the printer, the nozzle seemed to show temperatures about 20 deg C higher than ambient. Wiggling the Molex connector seems to make the temperature drop back to room/ambient.

Everything is zip-tied down neatly with no flex during motion

Questions:

Are the Molex Micro-Fit just that unreliable? Or, does it have some sort of lifespan and I am exceeding its expected lifespan?

A 20 degree C offset, what does that translate into in terms of additional contact resistance (in ohms)? I am having trouble finding specifications raw enough for me to calculate this.

Thanks!

I recently got a FLUX Beamo laser cutter. It's got a Raspberry Pi and a STM32 inside. The software ecosystem is pretty closed up, no G-code in or out. However, the Pi's microSD card is easily accessible and FLUX left some old outdated source code on there, outdated but enough for me to be able to convert their "FLUX Task" files into G-code. (not the other way around, no G-code to FLUX-Task, but I conjured up "human readable F-code" with some Javascript converter I wrote and I can edit FLUX-Task files now)

I found something interesting: The way they send over monochrome data to the STM32 not as a series of G-code, but instead, for example, [0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF] would represent 32 pixels (4 bytes, 8 bits each). At 0.1mm per pixel resolution, that is a black line 3.2mm long. If you do [0xAA 0xAA 0xAA 0xAA], it would be a dithered line 3.2mm long. Of course more bytes can be sent for longer lines. After a line is done, it shifts 0.1mm down the Y axis and starts another line.

Anyways, I thought that was pretty cool. Maybe you guys want to implement something like that? How do other systems do it?

Hmm... My Duet WiFi has a microSD card, and BMP files are pretty easy to parse. It might be even easier if you just allowed the user to engrave a BMP file directly, given pixel resolution and starting coordinates.

Thanks guys

the 6mm rods were a cost-down from using a linear guide rail right in the middle. I am not familiar with the performance of rail bearings and how they'd handle roll loads, and both research and just intuition says it'll handle roll loads worse than moment loads.

Would a single 12mm wide x 8mm tall linear guide rail for the X axis suffice? (MGN12H, only one bearing race on each side, also probably Amazon quality)

I see there's a torque rating for these for roll loads, but what about play/backlash?

And are you serious that dual 8mm rods across 300mm is still not good enough to handle a Hemera? My other printer is two 8mm rods in a cross configuration (like an Ultimaker 2) with a Titan Aero and it's fine, although the belt configuration is much tougher than CoreXY.

@pipersw the belts are not on one plane, please use the 3D model and rotate the view.

Why must the belts be perpendicular on the bottom? I'm following the layout on the CoreXY website, which has the belts criss-cross

Actually, don't most designs cross the belts?

EDIT: I found this page https://greghoge.com/portfolio/large-format-3d-printer/corexy-gantry-system/ , but the advice there does not apply, my belts are not rubbing each other, they are on two different planes

...wait... this means there have been people who actually had belts rub together? That's insane lol aren't they going to turn into bandsaws on each other?

Hi

My previous printers have all been Ultimakers and Ultimaker-like machines. I have dabbled in designing a CoreXY printer. While I'm 99% sure I did everything right, even modeling the belts, I'm wondering if I'm missing something... Can somebody please take a quick peek?

Link to 3D model, open it to explore it in 3D, rotate, isolate parts, etc. Hosted on Onshape, opens in your browser, no downloads required

There are 12x8x400 mm linear rails on the sides for the Y axis, two 6mm diameter rods for the X axis with LM6LUU bearings on the carriage. Extruder will be a Hemera. Pretty standard 2GT belts and pulleys, secured with M5 screws. Most of the 3D printed parts will be 4mm thick to minimize flex.

I understand that the higher pulleys will suffer more from any flex in the M5 screw mount, that's why they are not stacked, there will be nuts that ensure the M5 screws are always perpendicular to the plastic.

Nothing ground breaking, I just rather design my own stuff instead of looking at other people's designs. What do you think?

Thanks

@mad3dhatter said in Recommended extruded motor:

@frank26080115
HI frank, My name is Justin. I am curious about your flexible system an d what type of flexible shafts you are using .

The first printer is a Ultimaker 2 upgraded with Flex3Drive https://flex3drive.com/flex3drive/f3d-um2/

The second printer is a custom built printer using some gears from eBay and the flex shaft from McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/5910K92

The Flex3Drive I also hacked up to use the same shaft from McMaster-Carr, the old shaft was removed, replaced with a short piece of solid shaft so that it protrudes out the top, and then the new shaft attached to the solid shaft. The new shaft is thicker so it lasts longer.

Mind if I jump in and suggest simply using a remote desktop application? I use Chrome Remote Desktop, which uses my Google account. Works anywhere in the world and on any OS, including Android.

@zapta said in Cheap WiFi Webcam: ESP32 + OV2640 camera:

Frank, can you post an amazon link? I see there many similar cameras and would like to make sure its exactly the same as yours.

Also, do you see still images or actual video?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DVD4J7N/

both still images and actual video. http://1.2.3.4/ for video, http://1.2.3.4/jpg for still image

@bearcattd said in Duet webcam:

@frank26080115

I think I am close...which board do I choose in Arduino? the ESP32 board file added 40-50 new boards.

Thanks!

M5Stack-Core-ESP32 works for me, there's no clear instructions on this so I guessed it, since M5Stack is the seller.

@dc42

PLEASE make the enter key look like a fingerprint icon and do a scanning animation when we press it

@bearcattd said in Duet webcam:

@frank26080115

Hey Frank! Thanks a lot for the post. I'm still kind of new to this, but does everything load onto the camera module or do I still need to use my PI? Also, would you be interested in sharing your mount for the camera? I have one of the hoses ordered from Amazon (along with the camera)!

Thanks!

everything is loaded to the camera module, no raspberry pi required

attached is the 3D model of the mount

0_1555559862339_camera_mount_tip.STEP
0_1555559873172_camera_mount_tip.STL

edit: I heat-shink wrapped the entire module before putting it in the 3D printed mount, other wise the design will seem over-sized

@gnydick said in Crimping tool?:

the main problem I was having with my iwiss set is that the jaws are so wide, I couldn't wrangle the little parts together because I couldn't see what I was doing. That kit with all of the interchangeable jaws looks like it'd have the same issue.

the jaws need to be that wide though, they are as wide as the crimps are

if you want to cheat, try this

• strip the wire to the right length
• put the wire into the crimp
• using your fingernails, squeeze the insulating end of the crimp so that it is gripping the insulation
• now when you insert the crimp into the crimper, the wire won't move around, making it easy

another tip is that some crimps come on reels, you might be inclined to clip it off of the reel first. DON'T! Cut the reel but keep that little tab attached to the crimp while you crimp, then cut off the tab.

and finally, do not: insert crimp into crimper, squeeze crimper half way, insert wire. Because that's how you end up not being able to see anything.

Personally I think you'll get away with just using Adobe Illustrator/Fireworks/Inkscape to redraw it all. It doesn't have to be exact. You got like 4 main screens to replicate and a few modal dialogs. It sounds like a pain in the ass... but you really only need to do this once, and then replace text and colours in the elements. It's a lot more forgiving when you make a mistake too.

Otherwise mount a GoPro in front of the actual LCD, and have instructional videos instead of just pictures. I'm sure you've already thought about this one

A few really "fun" technical approaches:

• modify PanelDue firmware to send LCD data out the USB port (as a CDC virtual COM port), write Python script (or whatever language you want) on PC to capture and render data from USB serial port
• modify PanelDue firmware to be compiled with Visual Studio, and replace the LCD functions with functions that draw into a WinForm element. You'll want to replace the touch screen functions with WinForm click events too. (replace Visual Studio with QT or something if you want)

Both of those approaches are overengineering, but the second one might be nice for Duet's own QC purposes.

I have two Taranis RC radios that run OpenTX. You can emulate every single thing on it from the PC.

@dennishall said in Duet webcam:

I haven't yet done this as I'm probably going to figure out how to make use of my AruCam(s), but here is a setup that seems to have worked: https://forum.duet3d.com/post/90344

by the way that setup works with a continuous stream, not just a still image, with the live stream you need to set the URL without the "jpg" and enable the iframe feature in Duet Web Control

edit: i edited the original post to have a line saying how

I use SN-01BM all the time. The die seems very nicely made, should last forever.

I prefer the SN-01BM over the 2820M because it crimps both the conducting end and the insulation end in one go. I'm pretty good at using it, stripping the right amount and positioning the wire correctly, so it's not a problem not being able to see into it.

Because it does everything in one single action, you can't squeeze too tight and destroy the entire crimp. That's another advantage of the SN-01BM over 2820M.

@jarery said in Recommended extruded motor:

using a nimble extruded but am tired of endless calibration and never ending blobs and ripples

Hey I have been using a flex shaft system like the Nimble for years. Whenever I see ripples, I replace the shaft, and the problem goes away for a few months. The problem being when the shaft gets softer, it becomes springy, and doesn't transfer torque instantly anymore, it builds up tension before releasing tension, causing ripples and blobs.

You must really watch what the bend radius of the flex shaft is, or else it wears down really fast. If you have a kink in the protective tube, it will also wear down the shaft faster. Perhaps re-evaluate the placement and orientation of your motor.

I also switched to a 3/16" diameter flex shaft (uncommon but stronger) instead of 1/8" diameter (more common). To do this mod, you need to stick a solid shaft down the nylon worm you got first, and then us a shaft coupling between the flex shaft and the solid shaft.

Also I never really calibrated my E-steps. My first system was a Flex3Drive and they simply told me what number to put into Marlin and it's been dead on. My second system is my own design but with known gear size so I just calculated it and it was dead on too. Never had to really calibrate either printer's e-steps.

I made this in the last few days

https://github.com/frank26080115/PanelDueSplashMaker

try it out

not sure if it helps your error @Phaedrux since it uses the same EXE, but the EXE is one from my computer and it works, yours might be corrupted

and if it's not kosher to include the EXE the way I included it, let me know

I spent the day adding a USB port panel to my printer, and mounted my camera using two pieces of plastic and a section of flexible coolant hose

@DennisHall

My camera is only 2MP so it'll suck at really showing me how good a layer is. At most it will be used to detect spaghetti prints while I am away. With that in mind, it's more convenient for me to mount it on the top front corner of my printer looking downwards. If I wanted a good timelapse, I actually have a clip on GoPro mount that has a flexible arm.

@XTL

You'll be happy to know that the ESP cam connects insanely fast. The source code I linked only supports one WiFi access point, but it should be trivial to support multiple by doing a scan and checking against a list.

But obviously if your Duet and ESP are not on the same network then you might not get the image.

I actually recently got a portable travel router that can extend a network but under its own name, it also doubles as a network drive, and it has a switch on the side that's configured to turn ON/OFF my VPN, cost about $60 and runs off USB 5V power. It's nice to have when you are doing IoT stuff.

99% sure Vlad uploaded the source code zip file instead of the release zip file