@zuoyan With a 3D printer or CNC router, you typically need multiple harnesses - in some few of them you might be able to combine voltages or GND. Connectors, plugs and sockets must then be carefully chosen to allow for high currents. All signal lines and connections to sensors, end stops and the like should be kept separate, sometimes they even need shielding - don’t trick with these. @jay_s_uk is right when he suggests to use CAN-FD toolboards: this is by far the most effective solution to avoid wiring nightmares.
Posts made by infiniteloop
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RE: Shared wires by voltage
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RE: temperature not working
@HugoZM From your posts, I imagine you run a 6HC with a PanelDue attached, no boards on the CAN bus, and you control your printer from a PC running DWC (Duet Web Control) in a browser. The PC is connected via ethernet, not over USB. Please correct me if I’m wrong, I can’t see your setup from over here.
Something went wrong with the
M122
report - it should begin with something like this:code_text `` === Diagnostics ===
After the ethernet connection is lost, you can’t call
M122
from DWC any longer - in this case, restart the Duet and invokeM122
immediately afterwards. By this, you can copy the report from the console. Yesterday, you were able to post such a report on @Phaedrux’ request.Looking at yesterday's report, you are on RepRapFirmware version 3.5.1 - did you follow @Phaedrux’ advice to update the firmware to 3.5.4? And: which version is your DWC? (You can find this in the Settings / General tab of DWC).
To locate the LEDs on the 6HC, this Wiring Diagram is helpful. Most LEDs are located near the bottom left of the diagram. Within the 6HC’s Hardware Overview, the LED’s meanings are listed here.
Check the voltages (V_FUSED, 12V+, 5V+, 3.3V+, USB) and the STATUS LED after boot, then look if something has changed after the loss of ethernet.
If the LEDs give no hints, try the following:
- home Y, wait for ethernet to disconnect
- unplug the ethernet cable on both ends, wait a second, plug it back in: does DWC reconnect?
- If the error persists, try another ethernet cable
Please post your findings …
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RE: temperature not working
when I home the axis the ethernet stops working
Interesting. Welcome back
I can’t imagine any firmware reason. I assume it’s either a mechanical or electrical failure. First, we need a lot more details:- Which axis induces the effect?
- Is the connection lost while or after homing?
- Does ethernet reconnect after a while or only after a reboot?
- Is the PanelDue still functional when ethernet is lost?
- Which LEDs on the board are lit or blinking?
Please send M122 after the event and post the report here.
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RE: temperature not working
So I should delete the M301?
comment these lines out and see whether you get a temperature rise.
Edit: And remove the
M501
command at the very end of the config. -
RE: temperature not working
@HugoZM Sorry, but you posted the heater portion from your config.g file, NOT the file config_override.g which should contain, among other settings, the results of your PID autotune. This file (config_override.g) is called at the end of config.g with
M501
.As I interpret your config, the
M301
commands per heater kinda "reset" the tuning, setting all PID parameters to 0. See the GCode Dictionary for details. IMHO, this requires the presence of a config_override.g file.As a side note: I prefer to place (copy/paste) the tuning results into config.g, the necessity of a second "hidden" parameter file obscures the real configuration somehow. But that's a matter of taste.
Thanks for your tool change files (tool 0). tpre0.g and tfree0.g are empty, tpost0.g just waits until the temperature of tool 0 is reached. If the same scheme applies to tool 3, that's where it waits forever and a second when you select T3 from the PanelDue - given that, for some reason, your tuning parameters have no effect.
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RE: temperature not working
@HugoZM Can you please post your config_override.g so that we can see which PID parameters are applied to the heaters?
When @jay_s_uk asked for your tool change files, you stated that you "don't have anything on them". Does that mean there are no tfreeN.g, tpreN.g or tpostN.g files in your /sys/ directory (N being the respective tool number) at all?
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RE: Voron 2.4 duet 5 mini pauses every 12 seconds when printing
the issue is with daemon.g
in particular with calling macros which change led colour@T3P3Tony already told you how to avoid the time to permanently reopen the daemon.g file. The same is true for calling the colour-change macros. As these are simple one-liners, you might want to incorporate these
M150
calls into daemon.g directly. -
RE: Voron 2.4 duet 5 mini pauses every 12 seconds when printing
@cdoe Do you use a daemon.g file? If so, what’s its content?
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RE: How things work with opensource?
i purchased clones many times rather than originals, what business model is this?
Yours? The ”buy cheap” model. It relies on exploiting other people’s work. Would you buy ”the real thing”, you’d contribute to the costs of engineering and development for both hard- and software. On top, all users of genuine DUET hardware help keep this forum running. Not to mention in-depth documentation and technical support.
When approached for original boards still its 3 times higher than clones.
Yeah! So you profit from Duet3D’s work but honour the cloners. Were all Users like you, Duet3D (and all your beloved clones) wouldn’t exist.
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RE: Generic voltage sensor
@drivetrainsystems See this thread - reading-sensor-pressure-from-analog-output for details. You can skip the posts involving the "Bi-directional Level Shifter" which returns a digital signal.
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RE: Reading Sensor Pressure from Analog output
i am not using U & V as @dc42 mentioned above.
That’s good, @dc42’s post was short but precise.
i will test it but would this work as my start of testing
M308 S1 P"2.io0.in" Y"linear-analog" A"VG1" F0 B22 C-123 V0.0 U0.0Yes, that’s a good starting point. Don’t stick with the idea to define the minimum and/or maximum of absolute values in Bnnn / Cnnn. Instead, adjust these until the result reads 0 for 0 kPa and -101 for 101 kPa. So, if at 0 kPa, you get a value >0, lower B - or, if you read <0, enlarge B. Then, adjust C in the same way. However, you will notice that if you change C, the reading for 0 kPa will also change a bit. So, it's an iterative process with a lot of try and error.
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RE: Reading Sensor Pressure from Analog output
Managed to mount 12 resistors ( that i had in hand creating 6 Voltage Dividers ( 1.8K & 3.3K ) per connection
The nominal values of the two resistors are fine. Depending on the resistor’s specs, the effective values may come with enormous tolerances of up to 20%, so in order to get identical readings on all six channels, you should use resistors with a tolerance of 1% (”E96”) or better (”E192”). Alternatively, you can hand-pick resistors with the help of a multimeter.
Now my issue is how to Calibrate it correctly .
Which M308 command do you apply? Is it still this one from your OP:
M308 S1 P"2.io0.in" Y"linear-analog" A"VG1" F0 B0.0 C-101 V0.00 U13.5
If I understand the ”Analogue Section” from the data sheet you provided in the OP correctly, the output voltage at 0.0 kPa is somewhere between 0.6 and 1V (but not 0V). The resulting range should span about 0.5 to 3.2 V. Assuming that you want the Duet to report negative values, the Bnnn parameter (”The temperature or other value when the ADC output is zero”) should be positive (with U at 13.5, try 22), not 0.0. Similarly, Cnnn (”The temperature or other value when the ADC output is full scale”) should be a bit larger, as the output will rarely reach 3.3V.
Think of Bnnn / Cnnn as defining an absolute scale (for 0.0 - 3.3 V), the effective readings being a subset (0.5 - 3.2 V) of that range.
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RE: Reading Sensor Pressure from Analog output
i can't seem to get a good voltage divider to purchase that can handle 6 outlets.
I’m not aware of a commercial product either. Just mount 12 resistors on a perfboard - that’s it.
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RE: Reading Sensor Pressure from Analog output
i need high accuracy and robust reliability , that's why i used a Voltage Level Shifter
The level shifter you want to use is inappropriate for the task: as @gloomyandy says, the TXS0108E translates logical (i.e. ”binary”) signals from one voltage level to another one. Please study the data sheet to understand what this device is intended to do. On page 17, they say explicitly what they do to your analog signal:
When transmitting data from A-ports to B-ports, during a rising edge the one-shot circuit (OS3) turns on the PMOS transistor (P2) for a short-duration which reduces the low-to-high transition time. Similarly, during a falling edge, when transmitting data from A to B, the one-shot circuit (OS4) turns on the N-channel MOSFET transistor (N2) for a short-duration which speeds up the high-to-low transition.
So, they don’t shift an analog voltage to another level, instead, they try to detect flanks and sharpen these for better digital signal quality. For your use case, that’s the opposite of ”high accuracy”.
A simple voltage divider is what you need. Using high-quality resistors, these are very accurate and highly reliable. I really have no clue why you disqualify them as ”simple but not robust”. The contrary is true. Towards @gloomyandy, you mention three alternative solutions: ”Zener Diode Clamp” and ”Opto-isolator”. Both are counter-productive: With a Z-diode, you can clip (or limit) a voltage, an opto-isolator is highly non-linear. Your preferred solution, a ”Bi-directional Logic Level Shifter”, falls in the same category.
If you don’t like voltage dividers at all, there is an alternative: Op-Amps. But designing a circuit with several discrete components is a major task and not worth the effort: any added accuracy is easily ruined by the subsequent A/D conversion on the Duet controller or by temperature shifts along all components in the signal path.
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RE: Tuning the printing speed on fly
Just make sure (…) your filament is in the proper state (dry) and you are done.
What if the ”filament” isn’t dry but more or less ”foamy”? From the OP:
We have a bit specific printing material (kind of a foam), which flow rate we cannot really control well.
@fragrama17 Just my two cents: to reduce reaction times on flow rate measurements, you could perhaps try to shorten the movement queue length (see M595) or disable it completely with M555 (
M555 P6
- set nanoDLP compatibility mode). However, this can cause the printing movements to be a bit bumpy - sorry, never tried that myself, so this idea might not even be worth a penny. -
RE: FilamentMonitor Short and fast errors
@droftarts said in FilamentMonitor Short and fast errors:
I don't think that's an error
Well yes, but on my part. Thanks for putting it right.
HTTP tends to be required!
Does the OP run a SBC configuration? Was not aware of that.
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RE: FilamentMonitor Short and fast errors
Pounding my head against the wall
don’t.
I find that the filament senor is triggering during a lot of successive short and fast movements.
Usually occurring during infill or small parts with a decent amount of retractions.The MFM is set to check extruding moves every 3.0 mm. Shorter moves, combined with retractions, may not be properly registered. In your
M591
command, you can either try to set the E parameter to a higher value (in order to not report minor ”hiccups”), or you can lower the Raa parameter (in order to ignore false ”under-extrusion” events). @droftarts recommends a third alternative: try that first.Please tell us which firmware version you are running and which Duet board you use.
To your config.g:
- Do you really use the HTTP and Telnet protocols?
- You define the MFM twice: once for ”e0_stop”, then for ”e1_stop”.
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RE: Duet 2 and Duex 5 : BL Touch Wiring
I was referring to this page on the documentation.
So we are on the same page
Can you share the version of your Duet board?
Do we talk about a genuine BLTouch or a lookalike (CR-Touch, BTT Microprobe, …)?
Which version is the BLTouch? -
RE: Duet 2 and Duex 5 : BL Touch Wiring
… when it says "First, you need to allocate an unused heater expansion channel…"
Suppose you got this from a forum post? Better follow the Duet3D Documentation. For your BL-Touch (and similar Z-probes), read this: Connecting a Z probe - BLTouch. If questions remain, you're welcome to return to this thread.