Topics created by j.pickens

@j-pickens Yes. You can actually wire the toolboards to either pair of the tool connector, ie 1 and 2, or 3 and 4. Electrically it shouldn't matter which pair of pins you use. This also means you can wire two toolboards to each connector, one on each pair of the tool connector. I haven't actually been able to test this, but can't see any reason why it shouldn't, so it would be good to check it works. Make sure all 2-wire connections are each under 1m long.

Ian

@droftarts Thanks, I'm running it with the onboard power for the Duet3 and separate 5V power to the Pi. Running with NO jumpers, which I think is correct. Does this sound like the correct combo?

@gloomyandy said in Recommended Canbus E3D Toolchanger Cable Management:

One thing I did change on mine was to modify the dock so that the bowden tube is routed alongside the metal band/wiring rather than splitting off as it does in the original. The bowden then goes inside the rear electronics area for a short way before being routed through the back panel back into the main chamber to the spools.

I've done that too for my Hemera tools.

@thedragonlord There's very little angular momentum on an extruder motor. The distances moved for direct drive extrusion and retraction are very small. You may hear more clicking as it goes back and forth rapidly, but I don't think there's much more wear and tear. I run 6000 on a titan aero without issue. I thought 4000 was a safe compromise.

@j-pickens Rather than make my last post ridiculously long, I've put the bit about my Z axis setup in a separate post.

I thought you had to define the Z axis driveshaft positions for the dual Z bed leveling. Is that not done in config.g with an M671?

Yes, but on my TronXY there are two methods of levelling; manual 3-point levelling (initially there were 6 adjuster screws, but that doesn't really help, to I removed 2 on one side and one on the other) which levels the bed in the X and Y direction, and automatic 2-point levelling in X (because there are only two Z motors). I have a macro for each, so I set the M671 in the macros for each levelling setup:

; Manual three point bed levelling M561 ; clear any bed transform G29 S2 ; disable compensation G28 ; home all axes M671 X160:-160:0 Y-160:-160:160 P0.5 ; adjusting screws at front right (160,-160) and front left (-160,-160), rear centre (0,160) thread pitch M3 0.5mm G30 P0 X135 Y-145 Z-99999 ; probe near an adjusting screw G30 P1 X-145 Y-145 Z-99999 ; probe near an adjusting screw G30 P2 X0 Y145 Z-99999 S3 ; probe near an adjusting screw and report adjustments needed G1 X0 Y0 F6000

For the above, see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Using_the_manual_bed_levelling_assistant

; Two point bed levelling, automatic leadscrew adjustment M561 ; clear any bed transform G29 S2 ; disable compensation G28 ; home all axes M671 X255:-255 Y0:0 S5 ; leadscrews at right (255,0) and left (-255,0) G30 P0 X135 Y-145 Z-99999 ; probe near right front adjusting screw G30 P1 X-145 Y-145 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near left front adjusting screw and report adjustments needed G1 X0 Y0 F6000

For the above, see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors

Note that my bed has the origin (X0 Y0) in the centre of the bed.

Also note to get the bed actually level, the process at first setup is:

Get the bed frame level, by measuring down from the frame to the bed on each side, by each leadscrew, and adjusting until they are the same. This gets the bed frame square to the frame, so the leadscrews won't bind. Do the 'three point manual levelling', to get the bed plane level with the nozzle plane. If the bed goes out of level along the X axis, you can do the automatic levelling.

Ian