Thanks.

I'm trying it now.

Hi all:

I'm back with more questions.

My Tronxy X5SA was printing last night and while I was asleep the job failed due to the hot end getting too cold. I plan to replace the hot end and rewire for 24 volts in the near future.

At any rate the printer said it created a save state, how do I resume the print? Or is this something I should have set up ahead of time, which I've not done yet.

Yay! My print turned out pretty good. Still some fine tuning to do but I had excellent bed adhesion.

I think those changes may have done the trick.

I'm printing an enclosure for my 7 inch Duet display and it's been printing for 25 to 30 minutes and looks pretty good.

I may have to adjust the offset a bit but so far so good.

Thanks for your help.

@phaedrux
Excellent.

I made a few changes and I'm attempting to print again.

Ah! You're talking about the homez.g file. I'll try that out.

Sorry about missing home all

homeall.g
; homeall.g
; called to home all axes
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Thu Jan 10 2019 19:12:59 GMT-0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
; remmed for testing M98 to call other axis individually

M98 PHOMEX.G ; home x
M98 PHOMEY.G ; home y
M98 PHOMEZ.G ; home z

; Uncomment the following lines to lift Z after probing
;G91 ; relative positioning
;G1 S2 Z5 F100 ; lift Z relative to current position
;G90 ; absolute positioning

I'm using just the inductive probe with no mechanical or optical limit switch. Not the best set up I'm sure.

I'm sure of my z steps per mm. I printed a fan mount yesterday and it was meant to be 40mm tall, it was 40mm tall, the fan fit perfectly. I got my steps settings for x y and z from a youtube video of a X5S printer being set up using the reprap online configurator tool.

the g30 you mention instead of g1 s1 are you referring to the calibration instructions? I'm a smidged confused.

My markup was being messed up by me using equal signs to show where my code was. Weird.

@wyvern
That's a bit of a distance.

I don't yet trust my X5SA enough to start a print where I can't keep an eye on it.

Once that first layer goes down I ignore the printer.

Looks like some auto editing went on here. I'm really sorry that's going to make reading my post a chore, plus I used equal signs to show what lines were code and they were removed.

I could upload the files if that would work better.

The gap is too high when the print starts.

I'm attempting another print now but it sounds like something just went horribly wrong, let me check. Yeah, the job failed. The nozzle height was too high.

I just cleaned up the mess, no biggy, took less than a minute.

I ran homed all three axis and ran G30 and got 1000.

I don't claim my g files are great but here they are.

Config.g

; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.17 to 1.19)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Thu Jan 10 2019 19:12:59 GMT-0800 (Pacific Standard Time)

; General preferences
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

M667 S1 ; Select CoreXY mode

; Network
M550 P"Tronxy X5SA" ; Set machine name
M552 S1 ; Enable network

M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes backwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E98.00 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z12.00 E120.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X9000.00 Y9000.00 Z180.00 E1500.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000.00 Y3000.00 Z100.00 E10000.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1100.00 Y1100.00 Z950.00 E1150.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X330 Y330 Z400 S0 ; Set axis maxima

; Endstops
; M574 X1 Y1 Z0 S0 ; Set active high and disabled endstops remmed by JAD 1/10/2019
M574 X1 Y1 S0 ; Set active high X and Y
M574 Z1 S2 ; Set Z active high Z probe

; Z-Probe
M558 P5 X0 Y0 Z0 H5 F120 T6000 A1 I1 ; Set Z probe type to switch, the axes for which it is used and the dive height + speeds Modified by JAD 1/10/2019
;G31 P500 X-30 Y-20 Z0.31 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height z0.05 should be height in mm above bed.
G31 P500 X-30 Y-20 Z0.645 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height jad 1/12/2019 z should be height above bed.

;M557 X15:315 Y15:315 S36 ; Define mesh grid

; Heaters
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S100 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 100C
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S260 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 260C

; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1:0 T30 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Custom settings are not configured

M501 ; read eeprom parameters

homex.g

; homex.g
; called to home the X axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Thu Jan 10 2019 19:13:00 GMT-0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F6000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 S1 X-335 F1800 ; move quickly to X axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 X5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 S1 X-335 F360 ; move slowly to X axis endstop once more (second pass)
G1 Z-5 F6000 S2 ; lower Z again
G90 ; absolute positioning

Homey.g

; homey.g
; called to home the Y axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Thu Jan 10 2019 19:13:00 GMT-0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F6000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 S1 Y-335 F1800 ; move quickly to Y axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 Y5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 S1 Y-335 F360 ; move slowly to Y axis endstop once more (second pass)
G1 Z-5 F6000 S2 ; lower Z again
G90 ; absolute positioning

Homez.g

; homez.g
; called to home the Z axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Thu Jan 10 2019 19:13:00 GMT-0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F6000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 X165 F3000 ; move x +165mm JAD 1/11/2019
G1 Y165 F3000 ; move y +165mm JAD 1/11/2019
G1 S1 Z-405 F1800 ; move bed up until the endstop is triggered

;G1 Z-0.25 ;try to adjust z offset jad 1/12/2019
G92 Z0 ; set Z position to axis minimum (you may want to adjust this)

; Uncomment the following lines to lift Z after probing
;G91 ; relative positioning
;G1 S2 Z5 F100 ; lift Z relative to current position
;G90 ; absolute positioning

Sorry, this is making this post stupid big.

Config-override.g

; config-override.g file generated in response to M500 at 2019-01-17 20:01
; This is a system-generated file - do not edit
; Heater model parameters
M307 H0 A66.5 C551.7 D4.3 S1.00 V11.6 B0
M307 H1 A214.3 C77.4 D3.3 S1.00 V12.0 B0
M307 H2 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H3 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H4 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H5 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H6 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H7 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
G10 L2 P1 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P2 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P3 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P4 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P5 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P6 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P7 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P8 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P9 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00

Perhaps I need to delete the contents of this file? I think those lines are from my first attempts of setting up bed meshing.

I just got bit by the spam filter, trying again.

Chiming in.

I'm still setting my Duet 2 Wifi up and have lots of work to do, but it is printing.

I love having my LCD display, if I need to print another copy of a part I've already uploaded I can do so from the LCD panel and can control the printer from where the printer is rather than going back and forth to my computer half way across the room. It's handy for sure. But not needed.

Hi all:

I've tried the instructions here:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe
Without much luck.

I have an inductive z probe on a Tronxy X5SA and it does seem to work, it lights up when I home the z axis so no printer hardware crashing in to things, but I can't calibrate it for proper nozzle spacing from the heated bed.

Following the instructions I start by homing x and y so that I'm allowed to home z. I home z.

I then issue the M564 s0 command to disable axis limits so I can bring the bed up high enough to give me some friction on a sheet of #20 printer paper.

Once I have what I feel is proper friction between the bed and the nozzle of the sheet of paper I then issue the g92 z=0 command to tell the controller that z is homed.

I then move the bed down 5mm then issue the command again to move the bed down 5 more mm.

I sent G30 s-1 to the controller, the bed raises and I get an offset reading. The last time I did this I got 0.645.

I enter that number in to the appropriate line in config.g
G31 P500 X-30 Y-20 Z0.645

I reboot the controller, and home again, my nozzle to bed gap is much too high.

What am I doing wrong?

That is weird. I use a good quality Fluke meter and haven't run across that.

The ohms function introduces voltage in to the circuit it's testing. Could it be high enough voltage to attempt to warm the heated bed and cause the impedance change?

I haven't done much research on this but do know ohm meters inject voltage in to the parts being tested.

Just thinking out loud.

@tletourneau said in Amps Tronxy X5SA:

ZYLTech

That shouldn't be too hard. Ten parts? four extruded aluminum vrails, four smooth rods, and two drive screws.

That's one of the things I really like about corexy printers, changing their height is easy.

@xsivspd

Although I think the Tronxy electronics are pretty weak, and that includes the power supply, mechanically it's a good printer.

I forgot to mention it, but I replaced the belts and my print quality improved a lot.

It should be relatively easy to enclose the X5ST-500. My buddy Clint is after me to enclose my X5SA. I'm seriously considering it after I upgrade to 24 volts.

@jckray

I like your script though. It shows how powerful Reprap firmware really is.

@phaedrux

I thinks so too. I will.

Thanks.

@jckray

I'll try that.

I see that your script has M500 to save the results. I don't see that on the calibrate Z probe page. Is that what I've been missing?

@xsivspd

That along with replacing my xy motor mounts with metal mounts from Open builds have been two of my favorite modifications. Of course installing the Duet 2Wifi board is my favorite modification.

I insulated the bottom of the heated bed which was my first modification.

I genuinely like my X5SA though in fairness it's not a great printer out of the box. But my X5SA came with great features, which I really like.

To digress a bit. I bought an Ender 3 just weeks after my X5SA arrived and it is without a doubt my favorite 3D printer to date. It will also end up with a Duet 2 Wifi board and seven inch LCD panel because I love them so.

Before I bought the X5SA I bought and was using a QU-BD Two Up. It was better than my first 3D printer but to make it capable of reliably producing good 3d prints it went through extensive changes and except for the top brace and the hot end mount is now devoid of horrible wooden parts.

Before the Two Up, I built a Prusa Mendal. It's a good and reliable printer but can't match the print quality of modern printers. Still it was a lot of fun to build and is reliable.

Oh, and shame upon shame, I have most of C bot built. I need to program the electronics and do something with the horrible z axis mechanics. It's nearly as big as my X5SA. A buddy of mine has been bugging me for a year to finish building it so that if nothing else, I can sell it.

I'm well of topic, I'll stop that now.

After payday I'll investigate switching my X5SA to 24 volts. I need to work out the heated bed, I expect I'll need to find a combination of solder pads that give me full coverage on the heater and has about 1.5 ohms of impedance. My bed draws 16 amps at 12 volts so it's wired for 0.75ohms currently. I'll need a 15 amp 24 volt power supply, three new fans, and a 24 volt hot end. I expect it'll cost less than $100 to make the changes.

As for me, I've followed the instructions on the link. I've done the following:
I've positioned the nozzle at the center of the bed, or very close to.
I've jogged the bed up down so that the nozzle is just touching a sheet of #20 printer paper. I had to use M464 S0 to do so.
I then ran G92 Z0 to set z=0
I've moved the bed down 5mm.
I sent G30 S-1 to the controller. The bed came up.

I ran steps five through seven several times.
In the we interface I edited config.g and set z in the G31 command to the trigger height I was given in the previous steps.

I wonder if I missed something though.