@en_passant That very weird, I was able to easily find a 1amp mini fuse on Amazon. I pretty much did the same thing as OP. Got a very nice spark. I was so freaked out that I may have fried my board or something. Then I Googled it and found out about the fuse. Checked it and sure enough, it was blown. Ordered new fuse, only could get it with 10 in a pack. lolz, I guess I have a few extra tries to see some sparks fly. J/K.

If you would like and it is not against the forum's rules, I could post you the link to what I bought to replace my fuse.

@printingmark Mark, I would suggest that you look at the following

M566 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z24.00 E300.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X30000.00 Y30000.00 Z300.00 E1500.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)

I beg anyone to please insure that I am giving the correct information and help for him. I am very new the REPRAP Firmware. Mark, please change that code listed above thats in your config.g file to the following

M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z12.00 E150.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X3000.00 Y3000.00 Z30.00 E150.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E500.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)

The way you described your problem makes me feel like your stepper motors are skipping big time. I had this very same issue and I had to basically lower all those values down to almost nothing. After changing those valves listed above, my printer started to work like a champ. Produced some nice prints.

I own a Tevo Black Widow. I know you said you own an Ender 3. Those numbers I listed above for you to change will not hurt anything at all. But you can play with them so they fit your printer. I am only suggesting those numbers as a guideline to start at.

Keep us posted on your success.

Shawn B. aka Karma

@BlueDust That was a very good find. I would say that you should just re-crimp that wire with a new pin and you will be all set. I would also replace that connector if possible. I would also highly suggest that you clean/gently scrap the connector that had connected to that failed pin. I only say this because you will most likely find some sort of a carbon buildup on it.

I have seen this kind of situation before many times while I was in the Air Force working on the Electrical System of many different Aircraft.

If you have any questions about this, please reply or send me a private message.

Take Care

Shawn B. aka Karma

I have a Duet 2 Wifi and I am having issues with my Mini IR Board. Would someone please post a picture of the board and show me what connections need to be made in order to get this component wired up properly.

Thank you very much in advance.

Karma

@CR3D Ahh, that makes perfect sense now. Thank you for that answer.

I would live to get my hands on a Duet 3, but my wife would kick my rear end if I spent anymore money on my printer right now. The Duet 3 board has so many more options then any board I have every seen. It's truly a work of art.

@CR3D I was looking at your config.g file and I noticed that you have your Y-axis current set to 4200. I am not second guessing you, I was just wondering if that was correct.

@zapta Thank you for your response and information you have given.

I have already taken off the factory extruder stepper motor and replaced it with a BMG Bondtech setup via Bowden. I am attempting to reduce as much weight as possible off each Axis. In doing so, I will be able to increase the acceleration setting of the X and Y axis, thus improve print quality and lower overall print time.

I know that the 0.9 degree motors holding torque is reduced because of them being 0.9 degrees. I have also thought of adding a second stepper motor on both X and Y axis to help out the strength. But in doing so, I am thinking that I would have to buy a duex5 for the increased amount of stepper drivers.

Another question I would like to know is of it is possible to replace the TMC2660 stepper drivers with the newer TMC5161. Mainly for the increased amps available for each stepper motor that comes with the TMC5161. I understand that it would require me to do some soldering. I already have a soldering re-work station and I am pretty good at SMD soldering and also under a soldering microscope.

But I am unsure if the TMC2660 and TMC5161 share the very same pinout, and if so, what else would have to be changed out on the board to compliment the added amp's per driver.

I know that I am asking a bunch of questions, but I love learning about how each different component works and how they interact with each other for them to work.

Again, Thank you for the info on the stepper motor for the extruder. I will have to look into that motor as a viable option vs my Bowden setup now.

Karma

Thank you for this info. I didn't see it until you gave me the link. Thank you again

Karma

I currently own a Tevo Black Widow. Its a great printer, but with any printer out there, it has some drawbacks.

My question to you is which type of stepper motor is better for making prints look amazing, but also want you opinions on the drawbacks

I am looking to move over from the Stock 1.8 degree stepper motors to 0.9 degree stepper motors.

And go....

Also, thank you all in advance for you comments and opinions on this matter.

I put my complaints about my printer on the bottom for anyone that is thinking about getting a Black Widow 3D Printer.

For instance, it only has one Z-Axis motor that controls both Z-Axis rods. It uses a belt to connect both rods together.

The X-Axis had a very very heavy extruder stepper motor with a 3 to 1 gearbox along with it.

The Y-Axis motor I feel is underpowered.

I have changed the X-Axis and went to a bowden setup, which really lightened up the load the X-Axis stepper motor was having to put out.

Karma

@Phaedrux What you said makes perfect sense sir. Please forgive me for doubting you.

This is something that person could use in a pinch, like for a very temporary amount of time.

I personally use the M106 S0.5 command just for my fans. I have a 24V system, I just couldn't find 24V noctua 40mm fan that was 24V. I really love these fans because they are almost silent when they are running. They are also very resilient when it comes to pushing out 24V to a 12V fan. That was when I was still learning the firmware and all. I was a Merlin guy at the start, then jumped to Repetier due to upgrading to a RADDS setup that didn't go anywhere for me. Always had problems with it.

I have a few DC Buck converters laying around here. I am not sure how they will respond to a variable input power. Like if they continue to try and push out 12V when there is only like 7V on the input side. I guess I have some homework to do.

Thanks for the lesson on this. I am very new to this firmware and the Duet3D 2 Wifi board. So far I love it. I wish I would have gotten the Duet3d 3 board. But I know my wife would kill me if I bought that right now.

@yagodajm Partly Correct. It will be explained further down in this message.

The hotend part is a very easy part to replace. To save you some money, you can still use your 12V power supply to only power your 12V heatbed. That's until tou can get another heatbed that is 24V. Then again, some heatbeds are both 12V and 24V. It all depends on how you connect the heatbed. It will say that on the heatbed itself.

There is a way to use your 12V hotend with the 24V system. There is a command that will allow you to limit the amount of voltage to lets say, the hotend, the fans, the heatbed as well.

If you are interested with what I said above, just simple reply to my message.

Karma

@en_passant I am glad I was able to help soneone today. It makes the day worth living and enjoying.

@BlueDust Bro, I get what you mean about just wanting to get it together just enough to see if it will print. My control box that has all my components in is falling apart. Stupid acrylic design. Cracked it on the first day, and also on the second and third. Very cheap design. I am going to customize where the control board will be with everything else. I seen how to do it and how it looks from a facebook group dedicated to the Tevo Black Widow. There is this one member that has completely redesigned the Black Widow and it looks mean as heck. He has also got the mmu from Prusa to work on it. Crazy, I know, but he did it. He had to figure out how to interfave with the mmu in order to get it to work. He didn't have enough Tx and Rx pins left on the main board. But somehow he figured it out and it runs great.