@Phaedrux
This printer has been causing me a lot of quality problems since Dec of 2019 where I sort of let it rest (small single object TPU/TPE jobs printed fine) for a year after Covid happened before putting more (but random) time in to troubleshooting it.
Over the last few years replaced all the major parts including this last week replaced the Duet2 with a Duet 3 and 1lc tool board. Once I got everything for the most part working (ie printer could print), I started working on Auto Bed Leveling again, and was again having trouble that reminded me about this post. I reread your question a few times (asking if I run leveling multiple times in a row does it get worse) thinking it was a clue. But as I never reran auto bed leveling more then once in a row, I didn't see this happen when I was testing, as the bed would get so far out of level that the BL Touch would give up or already be triggered when it went to a location to probe for the bed.
Turns out this was the problem the printer was having after I moved to the Duet 3. Every time I ran it, bed leveling got worse in the same way. Focusing on what could cause this, I realized that the Z motors were not associated with the correct locations.

I am not sure on what caused the problems with this printer on the Duet 2, but think the board is OK and it was just some calibration that got out of whack when trying to print a handful of different filaments that ended up being bad... And wasn't able to figure out what I did. Going to the Duet 3 forced me to redo everything, gave me an Accelerometer for Input Shaping and all the other goodies I get when using an SBC. So I am not complaining.

And as always. Thanks for the help!

A long time ago, when I think it was called motion pi??? I used to use this...
https://github.com/motioneye-project/motioneyeos/wiki

Or going directly to the main page and using its generic install might work if you want to install on on your Pi OS.
https://github.com/motioneye-project/motioneye

I don't remember the details, but believe I had the Duet Web interface connect to the live stream so I could watch the video directly from the Duet.

I used to keep websites book marked or search Google each time I wanted to calibrate my printers. To make life easier, I made my own formula spreadsheet in Google docs.
Thought I would share it as it might also be useful to others.
As it is not shared as writable, you will have to copy it to your own Google account to modify. Please let me know if you have other formulas that you find useful as I would like to add them as well.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16b_Ha3-pXSKHyUNqQK8N4RKqH9bqpy0vR_kGTuBWbVk/edit?usp=sharing

Removed the set screw, and the needle fell out. It was clean. Looked new. Looked over the BLTouch and found nothing weird. All looked new, and couldn't find any dirt/dust or anything. I played with it a bit (needle up and down with set screw removed) and put it back together (word of warning, the needle can be fired out the set screw hole a few inches and become lost). Now it just works. Ran it in test mode for about 2 minutes and no issues. I have no idea what to make of it but not complaining.

Thanks @Phaedrux for reminding me about the screw!

@Phaedrux
Thanks for your help @Phaedrux.
I may start a new thread later, but you were able to help me make it work better (more accurate) and now if I lower the first layer height a tad, its no longer a big deal. After you mentioned slowing down the speed to find the bed, and I saw it was more accurate, I tightened down the screws/springs on the BLTouch and that seemed to help a small amount too. Not as much as slowing it down but still.... I just need to get back to printing some test prints to test multi color out, to see if it would be good enough for Christmas gifts. Or if I should just print one color and paint...

@as-3d-druck said in from e3D Titan (bowden) to bondtech QR3.0 (bowden) Problems:

ill just try to print that and tell in what results that T

Start out with the steps Bondtech or any vendor tells you. But you have to calibrate to make it accurate afterwords. I have both a titan and bondtech... from what I remember, the vendor numbers always had me over extruding (on both extruders). Some people also calibrate with every role of filament. But I don't re calibrate steps unless I see problems.

@NitroFreak

Did you see the M122 you posted shows crazy high Hiccups too?

Hiccups: 10265739

Your hiccups may not have been caused by the same reason as mine, but that may be the problem. I only use S3d or Canvas when I paint a model. I don't remember if I tried using Canvas or not and saw this issue...

I no longer have any Hiccups on my Duet2.

How much should I worry about other damages at this point?

I can't see anything wrong with that crimp... Other then the fact its burnt up that is.

The skipped lines was actually an empty nozzle.

On pause, the nozzle pulls back 10mm.

On resume, it pushes out 10mm.

The nozzle always extrudes a bit at the 10mm push... which means, when it gets back to to printing, the nozzle is empty.
I don't know why this was never an issue on resume before, but I ended up have it set the resume for 35 mm to ensure the nozzle will be full enough to properly extrude when it gets back to printing. That seems like alot, and odd I haven't noticed this issue before.
I did recently complete some upgrades. Upgraded to 3 Z motors to enable actual bed leveling, and swapped out the laser filament monitor for the magnetic one.

@dc42
Are you saying I could wire in two, DUET 3 TOOLBOARD 1LCs directly into the Duet3 (without a Distribution Board)?
When reviewing the instructions, it looked like I could only wire one directly to the Duet 3 at a time.

@Exerqtor
I have never tested stall detection on the extruder but would if I used a Bowden Extruder. I was just trying to have the printer rehome X and Y if the fan shroud or BLtouch got stuck on a part of the print that bent upwards, but never finished dialing it in.

@dc42
Thanks for the feedback. I will have to play with this...

M566 X700.00 Y700.00 Z60.00 E2000.00                  ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X8400.00 Y8400.00 Z180.00 E3000.00               ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z40.00 E1600.00                ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1000 I30                      ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent

I received the PA-09 crimper and plan to use it soon to try and improve some crimps/connections.
But I have an ongoing error I want to resolve first to help troubleshoot new problems I may have after I touch the crimps.
Question...
Can this error only be caused by bad crimps? Or is there another possible cause? I think I had this same error when I first setup one of my printers years ago, and from what I remember was caused by a physical wiring problem. The problem I have right now making me not want to touch anything, is that everything appears to be working, and was starting to think this was related to some left over stall config from the Duet2 that I never got working 100%... When I enabled stall detection, the printer stops and find homes randomly when not needed during the print (still needs tweaking). Also, when I had the printer still in pieces (but working) during this Duet3 upgrade, it appeared the drivers showing this problem are all on the Z axis.

3/7/2024, 11:26:44 AM Warning: Driver 4 stalled at Z height 7.86
3/7/2024, 11:21:43 AM Warning: Driver 4 stalled at Z height 7.62
3/7/2024, 11:16:12 AM Warning: Driver 4 stalled at Z height 7.38
3/7/2024, 11:12:46 AM Warning: Driver 4 stalled at Z height 7.14
3/7/2024, 10:26:45 AM Warning: Driver 4 stalled at Z height 5.22
3/7/2024, 10:17:37 AM Warning: Driver 4 stalled at Z height 4.74
3/7/2024, 10:10:56 AM Warning: Driver 4 stalled at Z height 4.50
3/7/2024, 9:45:10 AM Warning: Driver 4 stalled at Z height 3.30
3/7/2024, 8:28:31 AM Warning: Driver 4 stalled at Z height 12.28
3/7/2024, 8:28:31 AM Warning: Driver 4 stalled at Z height 12.28

@Phaedrux
This is the printer I recently swapped out a duet2 for duet3. Still tweaking things and haven't gotten to the point of backing it up yet. But as I am close probably should have backed it up two weeks ago.

Thanks for the help!

@Phaedrux
I didn't know the bak file was updated each time the config was saved... It was last modified early this month and thought I had changed something since then. But also didn't know the file is updated with the main config file.

Thanks! I will review it and put more confidence in the bak going forward.

I went to edit the config of a Duet3/SBC printer via DWC, and accidently clicked delete instead.
Is there a way to export the running config to console? I could then save that to a text file and rebuild it from there.

@oozeBot
I only checked one site and not sure if it was an outlier... But those make expensive look cheap.

@jens55 @oliof @dc42

Thanks for the feedback.
The crimper I have crimps both the wire and insulation at the same time, ie I am not able to do one without the other. I get poor/no crimping on the wire itself, and too much on the plastic shielding and it breaks.
Reading your suggestions makes me believe I just don't have the right tool for these small JST connectors.
PA09 appears to be the correct one for the job, and appears simply searching for "JST 2.0" connectors on Amazon should help me find the correct replacement connectors I need.

Thanks for the help!

Thanks do your help!

I crimp and I crimp and the wires keep breaking off... right through the wire insulation.
The wires do not break off right away. I can usually print a while, and if they didn't already break after a few hours/days of printing, the moment I touch the wires to clean it up, at least one will break, and the others shortly after as I try to repair them.
I think the crimp tool I am using is crimping too much and/or the wire's insulation is too thick for what the small JST ends are expecting to be connected to.
I would like a confirmation on

1. Replacement JST ends I need
2. The expected correct wire size
3. The correct crimp tool.

I am currently using 22awg wire, and 22awg crimper. Anything bigger doesn't crimp those small JSTs enough.

Reading around this forum, it appears these are the suggested crimpers, but I didn't find anything about the JSTs themselves or the wire size. (most posts are talking about TB 1.1, and I am expecting it to be the same for 1.2a).

JST PH 2.0 mm Pitch <- is this specific enough to describe the exact JST connection I am looking for?
This says 1.9mm, but was the only crimper I found that was suggested to use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=A235XUT8R6E0JM&th=1

I will share pictures of the JST connectors I am looking to fix from my phone (just easier) in the next post.