@gurusmi Im new to all of this and the Duet 2 WiFi was the first Duet board I got but it was a clone and could not connect it to save my life. I returned that and went onto the Duet 3 Mini 5+ after learning about it. Firstly you do not need the Duet 3 6HC unless you plan to use Nema 23's or 34's due to the 6HC standing for 6 High Current stepper drivers in this case TMC 5160's. The Duet 3 Mini 5+ is the best value and it has 5 TMC 2209's which are good up to 2amps I believe and is sufficient for the three 60mm Nema 17's and one 48mm Nema 17's I am running. Plus I could always add an expansion board and or daughterboard if I needed something more out of it but for a basic cartesian running 4 to 5 stepper motors the D3M5+ is the way to go IMHO but honestly also if I could afford it I would go with the 6HC granted I had some extra spending money. The feature I just figured out literally 30 minutes ago that helped me update my RRF from 3.2beta+1 to 3.3 was the fact that I could press the reset button twice really quickly which then would show the Status LED flash from bright to dim to indicate it is ready to flash the new firmware. A new drive will pop up on your PC (oh yeah the Duet 3 Mini needs to be connected to your PC via a Micro USB cable sorry lols) so after the new DUET drive pops up you can then use it to open it up and view what should be 3 files one of the files being named CURRENT.uf2 with the word CURRENT meaning the CURRENT RRF so anyways all I did was copy and paste the new RRF 3.3 onto the newly created DUET drive and then Status LED flashes really quickly indicating it is writing the new firmware onto the EEPROM I believe dont quote me on where it is writing to I just think it might be the EEPROM but anyways the new RRF 3.3 has been loaded and now I can finally connect my RPi 4b onto the Duet 3 Mini without issues now that the board is no longer running 3.2beta+1 wheeeewwwwwwww what a relief lols!!!!!!!!!

Good Luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ill be installing that Euclid Probe into my Anycubic Chiron that I converted to utilize Linear Rods NOT Rails as I feel that Rails are a bit too stiff plus I like how the Rods look. So I essnentially am building a Prusa'fied Chiron but I like to call it Chiron LRE or Chiron 3.0 lols cause i really is. The Chiron 2.0 I had built used an BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo of which I used to think was THE best board one could get tht is til I learned abut the Duet3d boards!!!!!!!

@dc42 Thank you sir!!!! It was a wiring issue as it appeared that I had the Ground and 3.3volt connected but didnt actually have anything going into the io5in/io6in though the BL Touch was configured and wired correctly thanks to that Ender 3/Duet 3 Mini 5+ Installation article and a BL Touch/Ender 3/Duet3d installatio article outside of this forum/Duet3d guide.

Anyways thanks everyone yet again Im gaining more and more experience everyday. I really like the G Code is everything Mantra as it makes the most sense with that approach given that we are dealing with a machine whom only understand certain forms of communication at certain levels of the boards structure. Anyways thanks!

@jay_s_uk retractprobe.g is located in system directory....

                      @pickett where are the deploy and retract files and what's in them?

; retractprobe.g
; called to retract a physical Z probe
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.2.3 on Tue Jul 20 2021 14:02:58 GMT-0500 (Central Daylight Time)
M280 P0 S90 ; retract BLTouch; deployprobe.g

; called to deploy a physical Z probe
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.2.3 on Tue Jul 20 2021 14:02:58 GMT-0500 (Central Daylight Time)
M280 P0 S10 ; deploy BLTouch

                                      Can you also post a photo of the wiring at the duet end?

YOU KNOW WHAT FOR SOME ODD EFFIN REASON I HAD PLACED IT IN io4 I feel so freaking dumb wow guys I do apologize I sincerely thank you for your time and efforts in helping me getting this resolved. WHen I had referenced the pic from the tutorial I had been using I realized I simply plugged it all back in to io4 and not io3.in/out wow I feel so silly thanks guys ok that does it until next time............... Quick question if any of you can..... can I use a mechanical endstop as in an endstop that simply completes a circuit in a mechanical fashion and use that for an endstop? Isnt this what endstops technically do anyways is to complete a circuit for a brief moment to trigger the END in a STOP?

I have this lovely looking endstop that is brass internals inside of a clear acrylic case and it looks freaking awesome and was wondering if I could use that as endstops. It even has this nice satisfying click when it is depressed? Here is a pic:

@jay_s_uk Awesome so just a simple minus sign will do the trick? Ok will setup the files right now in the reprap firmware configurator tool right now thanks a million man!!!!

Oh ok sorry man one more question if I may?

Do optical endstops need to be setup any differently in the firmware / config.g than lets say traditional mechanical endstops would??? Ive got zero problems wiring them up as it is quite straightforward between the D3M5+ Wiring Diagram and the Labeling of the V, S, G on the actual optical endstop so that part is quite easy though am wondering about the configuration of the firmware is any different?

Lemme know when you get a chance thanks again!!!!

@jay_s_uk I have but not so much with my Xmax setup I have not. The problem lies in how the bed goes to the top to meet the print head vs the Z lowering down to the bed like most printers do. So I suppose I should have written the post a tad differently cause that is my main concern is getting the bed to raise up to the top to meet the print head vs <

I will say this though when I was converting my Anycubic Chiron over I had become somewhat of an expert with utilizing the reprap firmware configurator though am a bit lost on how to properly set it up to make the bed go up to said print head vs <.

Ok Im all through with my redundancies here lols lemme know if you know of anyone whom has had the pleasure of setting up their config.g for use with their flashforge/qidi style 3d printer thanks!!!

As the title implies Ive got a Qidi X-Max w/ a Duet 3 Mini 5+ as the mainboard. Need help setting up the config.g as it is the bed literally goes all the way up to the top of the printer and lowers as the print is being printed. So obviously when the print is complete the bed drops to the bottom of the printer. Anyways I guess some of you would say Im coming from the Dark side so to speak as Ive been deeply involved with Klipper as the main firmware but some have convinced me that RRF is the way to go in a lot of ways.

Help is needed so if anyone could point me in the right direction for assistance with setting up the files needed for a Qidi X-Max with a D3M5+ as the mainboard. Oh yeah one more item Ive got the BL Touch installed / wired up and have replaced ALL of the mechanical endstops for a BL Touch for the Z and two optical endstops for the X and Y.

Lemme Know Y'all!!!!!!

Blessings,

Brian

@haggan90 please forgive my saying and or asking this but have you considered purchasing a single 500mm x 500mm ac powered silicone heater powered that is powered and maintained using a solid state relay? I personally use a 400mm x 400mm ac powered silicone heater pad with an SSR and with that Ive been able to essentially get by with a significantly smaller PSU cause the bed heater is powered basically directly from the wall outlet (though it is basically bridged/piggy backed off of the back of the rocker switch that turns the entire printer on so it is also fused too cause the rocker switch has a dedicated AC fuse). I mean it doesnt even have to be AC powered cause obviously there are DC heater pad options I just opted for the ac option. Anyways just wondering though there could definitely be good reason for such a setup that I am just not aware of lols so anyways just wondering man.....

Like the title implies Im looking to make some certain fans connected to Out3/Out4 to be the hotend heatsink and nozzle fans however I wish for these to turn on when need be. I was also just thinking of making the heatsink fan for the hotend be turned on to 100 percent as soon as the power to the printer is turned on as to mitigate if not completely eliminate the possibility of heat creep issues. If anyone has some solid examples and has this down pat please lemme know please and thank you! From what Ive read in the documentation the fans are initiated by M950 and then M106.
Honestly as far as the always on fans are concerned Ill most likely just wire them up to the PSU's dc output screws so as to mitigate any sort of overheating issues that could possibly arise for any sort of reasoning. It'd still be nice to at least know how to write it up correctly in the config.g file so anywho Ill leave it at that for now as far as what I wish to know for the fan dept of the Duet 3 Mini 5+.

Thanks in Advance!!!!!

-Pickett

@o_lampe yeah I found that after I posted the video I was just hoping someone would do it all for me and then heck take over printer too and just start printing stuff for me. THen I was hoping that would migrate over into paying my bills, feeding my beloved cat, etc etc you know stuff like this jk lololololsosloslsoslsosolslsls!!!! I got it now thanks man sorry my initial searches weren't yielding the kinds of quick and easy results I was hoping for but I reminded myself its a hobby not a job lols!

As the title suggests I do not know how to setup properly a Dual Z Axis on a Duet 3 Mini 5+. TIA!!!!!!!!

I guess I should elaborate on the title: Does anybody have a good pic of the back of the DUet 3 Mini 5+ I am currently configuring my board to un both RRF 3.3.latest / Klipper 0.10.latest . Please kindly and Thanks in Advance!!!!!!!!!

@siam absolutely you rock!!!!!!!!! If I didnt have such an attention span slash adhd issues I probably would have read through ALL of the documents by now but have only read here and there on an as needed basis. Coincidentally that is when I learn the most like right now thanks man I appreciate it I really do thank you!!!!!!!!!

-Brian P.

The title says it all. I am familiar with JST crimping as Ive done my fair share of crimping but only really know the names of the JST-PH and JST-XH for the most part. So anyways I guess you get the gist of my question so please do let me know the exact names of the JST style terminal connectors that ship with the Duet 3 boards. Both types (large and small JST style terminal connectors!!!!). I can not seem to pinpoint the exact name so anyways Im all ears got some more expandable sleeving on order and have some silicone copper stranded wire just waiting to be put together and basically just need the names of those terminals and possibly a good US supplier. Ive read that Digi Key sells the official JST connectors (Japan Solderless Terminal) in the US Market but dont quote me on that thanks!!

Thanks in Advance I look forward to hearing your responses as it is i feel silly for not knowing this already but need to know cause I have come to enjoy crimping cause it feels good making good professional terminal connections......