@Phaedrux m122
This is fixed, It was my error when updating
@Phaedrux m122
This is fixed, It was my error when updating
When updating from 3.46 on a duet 3Mini5+ SBC I get this error:
"Setting up reprapfirmware (3.5.0~rc.1-1) ...
[fatal] Could not connect to Duet: Timeout while waiting for transfer ready pin"
when using "sudo apt dist-upgrade"
happened twice, the first time it stalled at 95% the second after a reflash of the card gave me the message, but it continued to the end of the upgrade
I do have a blown stepper, but it works fine with the add-in 2 stepper card.
Regards simon
Second this, is there anywhere you could show the R and L parameters as those could be useful.
Second this it's a feature I'd like to have, or at least try out.
What benefits have the Trinamic 2209 vs the duet 2 wifi steppers?
Seriously considering swapping over to the new board. (Because I'm bored and haven't modified my printer in at least a month) + I have loads of Pi's doing stuff in the household
OK that's interesting,
on 3.3 on first turning on the probe shows 0 on the web page
if I activate the probe ( with a piece of metal) the webpage z-probe display latches to 1000 to get it to zero again I have to restart the duet.
The optocoupler display led acts normally, on when probe activated, off when probe is not activated.
My Bad I should have been clearer, Just finished a print on 3.2 now flashed 3.3 to check
The web page shows it as being on constantly ( Z-probe showing 1000 constantly) regardless of whether the z probe is triggered or not.
The probe indicator works normally, it turns on 8mm from the bed surface but is not being read properly by the duet. it works on 3.2 but not on 3.3.
Duet wifi 1.03
Should also note that it was constantly triggered (.i.e. the triggered light was on constantly)
Having a slight problem when I change from 3.2 to 3.3 beta 1 my z-probe does not work
from my config.g file
M574 Z1 S2 ; configure Z-probe endstop for low end on Z
; Z-Probe
M558 P8 C"^!zprobe.in" H3 F500 T9000 ; set Z probe type to unfiltered(8) and the dive height + speeds (inductive probe via optocoupler)
G31 P500 X-32 Y-26 Z3.020 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X5:235 Y25:235 S15 ; define mesh grid
Is my config a problem I checked the notes and could not see any indication of change
The probe is a highly accurate industrial probe,
It's in German but there is some translation
Here is one, I'm after the same thing if possible.
bottom_hooks.gcode
He abandoned it sometime after 2018 according to his wiki.
I think he's read "Rule 34" - by Charles Stross, a dystopian near future novel involving 3Dprinting - it's a good read.
Hi
If you go to the RRF Configurator RRF Config
there is a config for ender 3 pro ready for you to tab through when you get to the endstops tab click the BLtouch to set it up
all the hard work has been done for you .
@tom_Nbg You can correct for it if you have bed leveling screws, otherwise use (G29)mesh leveling as it looks like you are pretty close anyway
@tom_Nbg
You have a Cartesian printer
G32 is bed leveling using the 2 Z motors to level along the x axis. This does not as far as I know happen during printing it merely attempts to correct for errors before you start printing.
G29 is mesh leveling this is a correction that occurs during printing to correct for hollows and bumps in your bed, although it can correct for an incorrectly leveled bed.
@tom_Nbg Could be, not familiar with magnetic beds, you should see any twist clearly when you look at the bed map side on, alternatively look at heatmap.csv in a spreadsheet to see the actual numbers, I believe it should be first point and last point in the file for xy0,0 and xy max or x min y max depending on where your probe does it's last probe.
edit, answer to your 2nd post not the last post
Can't see anything wrong with your settings, but it looks like you have a slight twist along the diagonal.
notice how XY min is high and XY max is low. turn down XY min very slightly and XY max up the same to take out the twist.
Then redo the heatmap and make sure it's applied in your start up gcode in your slicer,
Hope that helps
you can reorient the map display to see it better.
@zerspaner_gerd This is my homex.g
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z5 F6000 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 X-265 F3000 ; move quickly to X axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 X5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 X-265 F600 ; move slowly to X axis endstop once more (second pass)
G1 H2 Z-5 F6000 ; lower Z again
G90 ; absolute positioning
hope this helps , works perfectly on 3.0,