thanks for the suggesting in 2. I will impliment a square move instead of a linear move. I assume this would also be useful to avoid majority of the half printed workpiece by moving around its perimeter.

I don't have a call to lock and unlock because I am using magnets.

@Danal said in Setting tool offset using USB microscope:

@tekstyle said in Setting tool offset using USB microscope:

(not connected to the duet2. not sure how i would do it).

You can't. Don't connect it. It is really a stand-alone PI, just happens to be built with the Duet image as a start.

i followed this tutorial to set up duetpi on raspberry pi 3. took out the card and put it into the raspberry pi. powered it up, all i get is an endless list of EXT4-fs error lines after line. been doing this for the past 2 hours. not sure if I did something wrong?

Followed the Duet "etch" tutorial? And edited wpasupplicant.conf? And did NOT format when windows complained about the card after etching?

That last bit is the most important. The card is partitioned, with a windows readable "boot" partition and a much larger Linux partition. Windows tries to assign a drive letter to that Linux partition, balks, and asks to format it. Which you must always decline,

EXT4-fs is the file system that windows doesn't like, and asks to format. That certainly seems to relate to those error messages.

Yup. I followed the tutorial on duet exactly. Only thing was inside the boot partition, it already contained a wpasupplicant.conf file. I Openned itnin notepad and editted it with my ssid and PW. Pulled the card out and popped it in to the rpi. Then powered it up. Will try again tonight

@tekstyle said in Setting tool offset using USB microscope:

@Danal said in Setting tool offset using USB microscope:

@tekstyle said in Setting tool offset using USB microscope:

(not connected to the duet2. not sure how i would do it).

You can't. Don't connect it. It is really a stand-alone PI, just happens to be built with the Duet image as a start.

i followed this tutorial to set up duetpi on raspberry pi 3. took out the card and put it into the raspberry pi. powered it up, all i get is an endless list of EXT4-fs error lines after line. been doing this for the past 2 hours. not sure if I did something wrong?

Followed the Duet "etch" tutorial? And edited wpasupplicant.conf? And did NOT format when windows complained about the card after etching?

That last bit is the most important. The card is partitioned, with a windows readable "boot" partition and a much larger Linux partition. Windows tries to assign a drive letter to that Linux partition, balks, and asks to format it. Which you must always decline,

EXT4-fs is the file system that windows doesn't like, and asks to format. That certainly seems to relate to those error messages.

Yup. I followed the tutorial on duet exactly. Only thing was inside the boot partition, it already contained a wpasupplicant.conf file. I Openned itnin notepad and editted it with my ssid and PW. Pulled the card out and popped it in to the rpi. Then powered it up. Will try again tonight

you won't believe this. I used my other laptop running windows 8, win32diskimager to load the duetpi image. and that worked. i have no idea why using balena etcher on win 10 doesn't work.

I found some N20 geared DC motor that I plan on using as a switch. based on this link, it mentioned the need for a flyback diode: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/6415/bi-directional-dc-motor-control-without-h-bridge/1

1. does the diode go between the contacts of the relay coil? or the DC motor?
2. if it goes between the DC motor terminals, which way does the stripe face? I am confused because if I have it one 1 way, wont reversing the polarity create a short?
3. I plan to use a fan output to power the DC motor. would I need another fan output to control the relay?

I don't want to use the PWM output or the heater channels because they are used for something else. the only output channels I can think of that remains are the fan output to perform this function.

thank you.

@Scachi

thank you. you have solved one of the biggest mystery for me. i am trying to design an electromagnet tool change system for a corexy and one problem i have is if for whatever reason i lose power, the extruder will just fall on the build plate since it isn't mounted on rods like on a cartesian with a moving Y.

working on my own tool changer. does using PWN1 require disabling the heater channels?

@OwenD

thanks for your help. i am not familiar with conditions and its syntax. this totally helps. does duet website have any information on other conditional commands that can be used ( not particular to this OP)?

i have a duex5 and the heater in question is heater 2 (which is the first heater on the board). it is also assigned to tool T0.

Would this be correct?
if {heat.heaters[2].current < 150}
M116

hi there,

i have set up my machine to home Z after heating up extruder to 150C. However, sometimes i need to change filament or stop a failed print and start over. i generally home Z again because i need to rip off whatever failed which can move the bed. however, the hotend is at a higher temp than 150C and it would wait until it falls to 150c before it starts to home. is there any ways to set it up so that it will home at 150C or greater?

@Scachi after picking up the tool, are your electromagnets continuously powered to keep holding the tool or do you have some sort of mechanism to hold it without the electromagnet being powered?

@dc42 interesting. i'll give it a try. i do know that it takes like a split second for it to become demagnetized so this may work. I was curious of the frequency would affect it (eg. M950 F8 C"duex.fan8" Q500). or should i just make this zero frequency (Q0)?

i was doing a test on a 12V .25A electromagnet using the Fan8 output on the duex 5.

M950 F8 C"duex.fan8" Q500 ; create electromagnet on pin duex.fan8 and set its frequency to 500 MhZ

I use the below to switch on and off
M106 P8 S1 ; power on
or
M106 P8 S0 ; power off

what I noticed is that it gets too hot to touch when on, and when off, it still is very warm.

is there anyway to lower the working and standby temperature?

@deckingman said in noise between cura and prusaslicer:

@tekstyle I've had this argument a number of times with various people and we invariably agree to differ. My personal view is that machine specific settings that get read in from config.g whenever the machine is powered on, should only exist in that one place and should not be modified by the slicer. As things stand, you will get different results, not just between slicers, but also depending on which order you carry out the prints. If you print the Prusa slicer version first, it will modify your machine configuration. So if you then print the Cura version which does not modify those changes made by the first slicer, without cycling power, those changes will persist and the objects should print in a similar manner. But if you print the parts in reverse order, you'll get different results.
If you use the slicer to modify machine specific settings, then you must always use that slicer, or have an end gcode which reverts those changes back to the values you set in config g. Or ensure that whenever you make a configuration change in one slicer, you make that same configuration change in any other slicers you use.

learn something new everyday. the thought that the slicer might have stored or altered the config file in the firmware never occurred to me but you do raise a very good point. I do turn off the machine between print so hopefully that's the the case. I just started test print made with PS but without all the acceleration and jerk control. so far, the first few layers look good. much smoother than before. still trying to learn the difference between the 2 as I don't want to keep switching back and forth once I get my Duet machine up and running.