Posts made by tgarr

I was able to cobble together an improvised pin spanner and adjusted the v-wheels a little. (not sure I can go much tighter without putting too much drag on the motors)

There's still something else going on but it's a little more reasonable now.

I'm finally restarting this old project and I could use an experienced eye interpreting my height map results:

The printer started life as a monoprice delta pro, which has wheels riding inside the extrusions/towers. Less than ideal and I can feel a little wobble in one of them. Unfortunately adjusting out that wobble is probably going to be a significant project (I don't have the correct tool).

1. Does the rippling in the height map look like the result of a slightly wobbly rail? Or something else?

2. Do you all think I could get away with a .8mm nozzle and .8mm first layer height on this kind of bed level? (or do I need to look into repairs before I go any further?)

Thank you!

Sorry, mesh bed compensation. To be done after bed leveling in hopes of getting that last little bit of variation out of the first layer.

I briefly experimented with underbed piezo sensors but got frustrated with how the sensitivity varied based on XY location.

I see that it is possible to add an "H" parameter to the G31 commands when running the delta calibration.

Is there any way to take the same strategy with mesh bed leveling? Can I somehow add a trigger height parameter for each mesh bed leveling probe location?

@Bluemalu thanks for the response. I'd be curious what the size of the contact spheres are and if they are solid, or hollow.

I guess it seems like an obvious mechanical improvement and I'm struggling to understand why no one else seems to be copying it. I guess weight savings? Big spheres being heavy and all...

What was your impression of the 3 pt contact strategy? Was it worth the effort? Or just cool in theory but no noticeable improvement in quality?

I saw a mention of the tilting hot end on their page for the spiderbot 2.x or so...looked cool but I didn't see how their tilting mechanism worked. I don't suppose you have any photos of that do you?

I came across this 3 point delta concept recently but I'm having trouble finding reviews of it:

It's discussed briefly under delta end effector stability second of the reprap wiki

There's a company out of France actually making some examples

And I found one home brew example on youtube

...but I haven't found any reviews about the tradeoffs of this design. I guess it gives less end effector wobble? But is that really a major concern?

Has anyone here played around with this concept?

@Nxt-1 - Sorry for digging up an ancient thread, but your use of the smart effector caught my eye. I have a delta with incompatible joint spacing for a direct replacement and I'd like to mimic what you've done. I didn't see a note summing up how the smart effector has been treating you though.

Did you just screw the smart effector down in 3 places? Any special washers/spacers or slotted mounts used to ensure enough deflection?

How have the (bed leveling) results been? More consistent than your previous bed sensors?

@theruttmeister said in A Software Solution to Eliminate Ringing?:

This is excellent work. And I'm actually curious just how far this could go... just how flexible a machine could you get away with!?

I suppose this could do wonders for a "hangprinter"?

This is super cool. Awesome proof of concept.

I guess I'd assumed the right place for this kind of compensation is really in the firmware, but we already push so many machine specific tweaks regarding temperature, retractions, etc into the G-code maybe it wouldn't be so bad to have this in the slicer.

@dc42 FYI the new PanelDue got here today, I plugged it in and it worked, so good call there. Thanks.

@dc42 Before I do anything stupid...(I'm a mechanical engineer not a sparky), which side of those components should I check on?

I'd assume the side opposite of the 4 wire connector, is that correct?

@Phaedrux Thanks.

Is there anything else I should / could try to make sure it's not the duet2 board first?

@Phaedrux

I had to look it up, Covid time flies, I guess it was more like 2 months sitting in the box.

July 30th through Printed Solid.

Is there anything else I can do short of trying to get a return or exchange? This thing is effectively brand new (it did sit in the box for a month before I got around to trying it).

@dc42

I don't see any bridging of solder:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MZLUyikwGnUVn5YLA

Here's the front and back for a complete picture
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fq9kcYabgkgEwRNK6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9BWQ1A1AZsUb39fN6

Ok, I guess I'll try to return it.

The only other clue I can offer is that if I just plug in the 4 wire I get a white screen, if I power on and then plug in the ribbon cable I can reliably get the flickering.

Looks like 4.98V

Onto the third cable, better, but similar behavior. I'm beginning to suspect something is loose on the board. I have trouble believing that three cables that all show continuity on a multimeter are all bad.

Here's a criminally rotated video...(sorry)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZnUCBZ7fY1Y6Brn8A
(just to clarify, that flickering is accurate, not a recording artifact)

The paneldue is elevated on a plastic box just to rule out any case issues. The cables aren't touching anything.

Already tried a second cable, anything else to try on the power front besides a third cable?

@dc42 Yes, I am running the duet from 24v power supply.

I have been plugging the paneldue back into the microusb to access the settings menu.