Nevermind... I wired the 4x conductor connection wrong for the other tool board.

It thought this link was amusing...lol https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/How_to_destroy_your_Duet_2

We take pride in out board and the way we designed it. Here is a sarcastic guide if you have the means to destroy out controller board made with our blood, sweat, and tears.... if you to try thanks for that.

WAIT can this FINE piece of engineering be overclocked?? I did just put that into the universe... my bad.

@jay_s_uk Ah yes will do. My mistake. Did mean to hijack anything..lol I will start a new thread. Sorry about that.

Update:

Turns out my Distro board was bad. I just replaced it. Everything is working as it should be now!

@sebkritikel I actually figured it out... lol I was doing a negative value on my T1 z-offset. But I changed, I got rid of the negative sign on the Z offset. it is working now. the layers are going down now.

Only wish I could use a fork of slic3r that allowed you to adjust the z-hop, z-retration, etc in the slicer itself instead of the firmware.

@Th0mpy
@Gixxerfast

I need to look at the settings, so I get emailed when someone responds; sorry about that.
I might be interested. I would like to see if I soldered correctly. (it is my first SMD DIY project)
But I would like another one since it is going on an Idex printer if I want to go super extreme, lol.

Do you know if @gixxer is planning to make a more modern firmware? That latest is 3.4 from what I remember on Gixxer's GitHub and the new stable release for duet is 3.46

@VoodooBane I was actually able to find what the components where in Kicad.

@Th0mpy

Hey thompy, Do you have any of the boards still? I would like one from you if you do

@Gixxerfast I sourced a bunch of the SMD components myself. However, it looks to be that some components are missing from your Excel document. I didn't think to look for whatever reason before buying components.

The components you did not include in the Excel sheet and what I am missing.
D1, D2
C3, C4, C6
R8, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15, R16, R17, R18, R19

I really hope I am not screwed...

See my screenshot.

@OwenD Did you make a new Post? I am soldering my own canned ercf board now. Can you share the firmware card you used?

@sebkritikel I actually figured it out... lol I was doing a negative value on my T1 z-offset. But I changed, I got rid of the negative sign on the Z offset. it is working now. the layers are going down now.

Only wish I could use a fork of slic3r that allowed you to adjust the z-hop, z-retration, etc in the slicer itself instead of the firmware.

@jay_s_uk Ah yes will do. My mistake. Did mean to hijack anything..lol I will start a new thread. Sorry about that.

Also here are my tool files;

tfree0.g
tfree1.g
tpost0.g
tpost1.g
tpre0.g
tpre1.g

So I am having this issue of the u-axis not having the same Z-height on the X axis .. this is assumed by the T1(the second extruder) not laying down a layer...

My bed is pretty darn flat. I have both of my Z-axis rods independent and I have them auto tram...

I figured out that for Slic3r (any kind of Slic3r fork) with RepRap firmware the retractions, Z-lift values, and speeds NEED to be in the setup in RRF firmware, and all of the settings need to be disabled in Slic3r. I do not know how I found this out.

Source: https://blog.prusa3d.com/slic3r-and-marlin-configuration-for-reprap-firmware-retraction-2_3686/

I am running a V-cast 1.5 please see the link: https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue2a0f85b/g/shares/SH35dfcQT936092f0e43f11e68d181475a37
The only difference to that model is that I am running a different extruder and hot-end.

Can anyone help me with this problem and find a solution? It seems no one has found a fix or what they did to fix it.

All my .config files are attached; please tell me if you see something wrong.

bed.g
config.g
homeall.g
homeu.g
homex.g
homey.g
homez.g

Update:

Turns out my Distro board was bad. I just replaced it. Everything is working as it should be now!

This Topic has been solved.