...now for something different.

NXD evo (RepRap forum in german language with some pictures and links)
NXD evo at work (Google video)

NXD evo CAD (Onshape)

@dc42 said in Measuring heated bed resistance:

Did you measure that with the bed heater disconnected from the Duet? If yes then get a new multimeter.

I'm gonna get a new multimeter. 😂

@vwegert I kind or forgot but I actually made a video of my purge bucket in action. If it's any use, check it out here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNNmZCXErYY&lc=z234cfh4dkylhh4ra04t1aokgl1ownrihxxz0fiwil5xrk0h00410

65 is pretty hot (at least to me it is).
PEI is awesome. Try dropping to 60 or 58.

I got an MK3 recently. Love it. I try PETG recently on the MK3, Love it.

I used it to re-print some parts on my dimond hotend mini kossel Duet Wifi.. Lovin it.
I swear the more extruders, the more problems. lol

0_1546458555589_Heat_tower_190-240_Bridge.stl
From http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2223651

And yes I use the same model for both fan and temp. It's a decent model because it has bridges, overhangs, sharp corners and curves.

This may be of interest to you. https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math

Take a look at this for a breakdown of what you'll need to know.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Going_from_Marlin_on_Arduino_to_RepRapFirmware_on_Duet

I would like this feature too, measuring extrusion at different speeds for non-linear extrusion takes most of my tuning time.

Thanks all for the opinions. I've got some work coming up using RAMPs. I was going to build a ramps system for myself at somepoint but need it faster so went for the complete budget system from Orballoprinting.

@mrehorstdmd said in Loctite LB8065 for heater cartridges:

Interesting. I've been using automotive antiseize compound on everything that goes into the heater block and it seems to work OK. I think it is some sort of grease that's loaded with graphite powder because it's black and extremely messy to handle. Is the copper filled stuff any neater?

It's copper in colour but I suspect it has a fair bit of graphite in it because it makes your hands black if you do get it on them. It's about the same consistency as "Pritt Stick" though - almost solid - a bit like wax. The tube works the same way as Pritt Stick - you turn the base which pushes it out of the top. So I kind of wiped the cartridge with it which is easy to do without getting on your hands and it doesn't drip or anything like that. Definitely not as messy as grease.

@stephen6309 ah makes sense now!

@t3p3tony
Many thanks to all my backers, who allowed Zatsit to be born!

Thanks for the pointer to the other thread. You're right, that is quite similar.

Luckily for me, my nimble extruder (love it!) has 2600 steps per mm, so the issue of no extrusion due to thin layers going below 1 step isn't affecting me, I think.

At this point, I'll just have to experiment to see what I can get.

In principle you can edit a copy of the GCode file you were printing, removing all the commands up to where the print stopped. Then you can preheat the bed and hot end, set the fact speed, home the printer as best you can so that is knows where the head is (you can use G92 to tell it the X height), and print that file.