@Phaedrux, confirmed 1 mm thickness ....
I did actually take great care with the installation of the glue sheet (seperate sheet so two chances of getting air trapped) and thought I did well but chances are it got mucked up first time I went too hot. Just for laughs, I can get the edges to curl up about an INCH !!!
This is going back a while so I might be off by a bit but it wasn't just a mm here or there 😞
I still suspect that I got some kind of a clone product but have no way of finding out if it is the real thing and I was not about to spend another $20 on a new sheet of PEI. I went back to printing on straight glass (no glues, hairspray or other magic potion)

I normally print with 0.4mm retraction on small prints and get great results. I tried no retraction to try to solve this problem.

I switched to a default Cura profile today and my issue entirely went away, haven't gone through and figured out which setting was causing the problem yet though.

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I just can't do that.

Thanks all.

Struggling with the phones autofocus, probably white plastic causing the issue! I've got and EOS 450D that's been idle for too long and wanted to make better use of it.

I'll have another look at the adaptor rings, thanks. Essentially want to be able to get high detail images of 30x30mm on the focal plane, which I think is 1:1 territory on the lenses.

@edgars-batna said in Grounding a frame made of aluminium extrusions?:

I used the plain normal metallic T nuts and corner brackets from the extrusion supplier instead of plastic when assembling and used quite a bit of force. This provided me with connections everywhere basically by accident. The T nuts are rough on the sides and bite into the material when tightened. Another way that I found is to use longer than appropriate screws with T nuts or T-slot nuts so that the screw bites into the back of the slot. Just don't use plastic as it will fatigue and break the connection.

I found the same with the hammer head nuts. For the connections between extrusion pieces I used a small piece of wire to join them. This maybe isn't the best practice since you can't guarantee that the connection will remain over time, but it gave me steady continuity from any two points on the frame I could find, so I called it good.

Give these a try:

M566 Z120 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) (Jerk) M203 Z600 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 Z240 ; Set maximum accelerations (mm/s^2)

I have a very heavy and slow Z axis and these are the values I use for print moves. For homing and jogging moves they are a bit lower.

I uploaded a short video showing this print:

https://vimeo.com/357503565

I have a "three story" Lack table enclosure for an Anycubic Kossel Linear+ running a duet. The board (and power supply) is mounted below the lowest table, outside the enclosure. The duet is mounted vertically, to encourage convective circulation, with no fans.

Has worked great for months (maybe over a year, I just don't remember).

@klcjr89 I'm also interested in getting a custom sized one and that is also for a 200x300 printbed. To be specific, it's for E3Ds High Temperature Heated Bed.

@droftarts

Thanks for the information and links. I will try and do some measurements and calcs. I printed the part you see at 0.2mm .

Good to know that you did not face any mismatch issues. I've read about the belt clamp in your post, i am using supposedly "fiber reinforced" belts.

My rails are not original Hiwin or equivalent quality, but they work quite well (i dont think zero play, but quite close) and i am happy with them for now (way better than the low quality linear rod/bearing system i ve had before).

Gathering all the ideas, I will adapt the 3 screw bed leveling on 2 lead-screw driven z axis. I will go with your suggestion (acorn nuts on regular screws, why didnt i think of that?! :P). For now, I will stay off the belt driven system until I am able to invest a bit more time/money on the worm gear assembly (or any equivalent gear reduction) to avoid the falling of the bed.

Thank you very much again for suggestions/ideas!

@phaedrux said in integrated D-Bot print carriage/cooler fan duct:

Nice work. I had a similar issue with clearance around the lead screws so I used shorter lead screws.

Yeah, that was the obvious solution, but I was hesitant to saw off the tops of my lead screws, and at least from the source I used they had good round numbers that were either too long or not long enough, so cutting would have been required. Anyhow, I really like this solution because the print carriage is very compact and will allow me to use as much of my new expanded build surface (when I get it installed) as I can. I also like how the integrated duct, being integrated, is right along the centerline of the carriage and not hanging off for other reasons, like fast accelerations of the carriage not having as much inertial influence of stuff hanging off the side. I think this is a very clean solution. Thanks for your comment!

I'm guessing you may be printing outer walls first and have retraction disabled for travels inside the part?

Would need to know much more information to be able to diagnose what's going on.

worth mentioning it doesn't have stallguard, but its damn near silent on 24v

OpenSCAD difference is probably your best bet. If OpenSCAD won't load it, run it through one of the online repair tools. Even if you've never used OpenSCAD before... it is free, and this use is extremely easy.

You said you can't post the STL on a forum. Or your not sure. I get that. If you are willing to email it to

danal (dot) estes (at) gmail (dot) com

I'll give it a shot, and send you the OpenSCAD program (as well as the resulting "fill" STL).

@zapta said in Polycarbonate and line width:

@scottbg1 said in Polycarbonate and line width:

I use Simplify 3D and it only allows to change the width on the first layer.

Try the Extruder tab

alt text

Well duh!!

With me, it's generally the simplest things are overlooked.
Ask my girlfriend.

Thank you!

@danal

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32967417944.html?storeId=4542004&spm=2114.12010612.8148356.5.e2d3191dCSF45m

Just wondering if I’ve read your suggestion correctly now. It’s a Core-XY printer so the build plate lowers. Assume it’s a microswitch though

not exactly what you are looking for but here is a comparison of a chinese nozzle vs a e3d nozzle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvlMeTnjriQ

Thanks for the insight, I will post results, i'm still a couple weeks away from running, waiting for a new design Bondtech Bmg X2 with direct mosquito mounts. still machining parts for the print carriage
0_1560923634693_print head carriage.jpg
0_1560923087440_64648439_371548930164863_717123632781852672_n.jpg