Good to know that you did not face any mismatch issues. I've read about the belt clamp in your post, i am using supposedly "fiber reinforced" belts.

My rails are not original Hiwin or equivalent quality, but they work quite well (i dont think zero play, but quite close) and i am happy with them for now (way better than the low quality linear rod/bearing system i ve had before).

Gathering all the ideas, I will adapt the 3 screw bed leveling on 2 lead-screw driven z axis. I will go with your suggestion (acorn nuts on regular screws, why didnt i think of that?! :P). For now, I will stay off the belt driven system until I am able to invest a bit more time/money on the worm gear assembly (or any equivalent gear reduction) to avoid the falling of the bed.

Thank you very much again for suggestions/ideas!

@phaedrux said in integrated D-Bot print carriage/cooler fan duct:

Nice work. I had a similar issue with clearance around the lead screws so I used shorter lead screws.

Yeah, that was the obvious solution, but I was hesitant to saw off the tops of my lead screws, and at least from the source I used they had good round numbers that were either too long or not long enough, so cutting would have been required. Anyhow, I really like this solution because the print carriage is very compact and will allow me to use as much of my new expanded build surface (when I get it installed) as I can. I also like how the integrated duct, being integrated, is right along the centerline of the carriage and not hanging off for other reasons, like fast accelerations of the carriage not having as much inertial influence of stuff hanging off the side. I think this is a very clean solution. Thanks for your comment!

I'm guessing you may be printing outer walls first and have retraction disabled for travels inside the part?

Would need to know much more information to be able to diagnose what's going on.

worth mentioning it doesn't have stallguard, but its damn near silent on 24v

OpenSCAD difference is probably your best bet. If OpenSCAD won't load it, run it through one of the online repair tools. Even if you've never used OpenSCAD before... it is free, and this use is extremely easy.

You said you can't post the STL on a forum. Or your not sure. I get that. If you are willing to email it to

danal (dot) estes (at) gmail (dot) com

I'll give it a shot, and send you the OpenSCAD program (as well as the resulting "fill" STL).

@zapta said in Polycarbonate and line width:

@scottbg1 said in Polycarbonate and line width:

I use Simplify 3D and it only allows to change the width on the first layer.

Try the Extruder tab

alt text

Well duh!!

With me, it's generally the simplest things are overlooked.
Ask my girlfriend.

Thank you!

@danal

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32967417944.html?storeId=4542004&spm=2114.12010612.8148356.5.e2d3191dCSF45m

Just wondering if I’ve read your suggestion correctly now. It’s a Core-XY printer so the build plate lowers. Assume it’s a microswitch though

not exactly what you are looking for but here is a comparison of a chinese nozzle vs a e3d nozzle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvlMeTnjriQ

Thanks for the insight, I will post results, i'm still a couple weeks away from running, waiting for a new design Bondtech Bmg X2 with direct mosquito mounts. still machining parts for the print carriage
0_1560923634693_print head carriage.jpg
0_1560923087440_64648439_371548930164863_717123632781852672_n.jpg

I checked all the diagonals.
The base of the printer is perfect.
The problem is the top square that is off of about 5mm (!)
I still have to check all the 4 sides even if they seems ok.
Can you suggest me a flochart for squaring the frame? Sometimes I have the feeling that I straight some part only for crook a other one.

To understand the basics, I suggest you take a GCode file generated by your slicer, open it in an editor, and look up each GCode command in one of the pages linked to by @oliof. Slicers don't use many different GCodes.

To understand many of the configuration GCodes used by RepRapFirmware, do the same for the config.g file.

Thank you for the input!

This will in turn drive a screw, so as far as the belt drive go I should only need the 16:40 gear ratio. Into a 2mm pitch screw should give me 4000 steps/mm and optimal layer heights for any multiple of 0.025 which is seemed quite convenient as I'll likely use from 0.1mm and up in 0.05mm steps. (1.8deg steppers x16 microstepping) Well thats wrong, Prusa cal thingy ignores microstepping for optimal z height for screws?! Oh well, different gear ratio it is then..

Found a page with simpler math for working out the center distance from the two pitch diameters and belt length without having to resort to nasty trig functions so will incorporate that

K=4 * L - 6.28 * (D + d) a=K^2 b=(D - d)^2 c=(a - 32 * b)^0.5 C=(K + c) / 16

0_1558490767271_4e5a9da4-df15-4ffe-9b30-a0ed522c224a-image.png

I print various brackets that have no real fine detail but need to be tough and so use PETG using 240 deg nozzle temp, 60 deg bed temp (blue tape) and zero fan. 3 walls and 20% gyroid infill and they come out just fine. I reinforce some regions in the part with 90% infill as you can see here

0_1558420577615_Screenshot_2019-05-21_07-36-02.png

0_1558420588123_Screenshot_2019-05-21_07-35-48.png

I figured out that it's nearly identical to the Bondtech Mini gears, since I completely overhauled an old extruder design (with the Bondtech Minis), used the Hobb Goblin in the new redesign, but never changed the settings, and it printed a calibration cube perfectly.

For those who find this topic later, the final answer is the effective diameter is 7.28mm

The teeth of the Hobb Goblin digs way deeper than the Bondtech, which is great for my 2.85mm filament, but it might be even a bit too deep for 1.75mm (only guessing, I can't test this since I don't have 1.75mm filament).

As @OBELIKS said, re-check M92 values. And as your printer is a delta, re-check the calibration.

@phaedrux Fascinating stuff - thanks for sharing.👍

I attempted a poly tower, but it ended up poorly because the slicer can only handle even numbers, so I had to print two shells and that kept the heat too close.

Normally I print that model with one shell.

@phaedrux

Thanks, I will try again.

I used hair-spray and it helped, but I am so glad I haven't seen any cracking or warping issues, and the best part is parts seem to be 100% accurate, a 20x20 cube comes out at exactly 20x20.
That FilamentOne place was fast as hell to get it out to me, ordered Saturday, got it Monday!

I have suspicions it's made by Filimentium, same reel design, and the company used to sell that brand.

Going to re-print my cooling duct since the one I have now is a rough mess- $9 glow in the dark ABS on ebay gets you $9 quality.