@jpomo10 See other thread: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/13876/kickstarter-steppers

Ian

I wonder if a IR camera would be useful here. E.g. take an object, warm it a little, place under the nozzle with fan on, and observe the cooling temperature. After all this is what we care about, the cooling pattern.

https://www.amazon.com/Seek-Thermal-Compact-All-Purpose-MicroUSB/dp/B00NYWAHHM

Iirc the ribs and center is 6mm, the valleys are 2.5mm and the outer edge is 6.5mm thick, magnet pockets are down to 0.8mm. If warped less than what can be seen with a traight edge in the first tests so i'm not worried it'll be any worse than the pcb heater it'll replaced. if the 0.5mm makes a difference i can mill down the edges. (And the temperature seems to be more even than the thermal camera can differentiate)

Hallo dc42 and Phaedrux,

now it is clear. Thank you very much for your help.

@Danal , I'm still working with your model to make it printable with the 8mm center core. (The nut slot doesn't print well as-is when it's thinned down.)

In the meantime, I thought I'd post what I'm currently using (for the last 6 hours.) It takes into account that my belt is 20mm away from the vertical tower and that the linear rail assembly is 13mm. (The model is actually two pieces: a base part with a rectangular 20mm hole pattern and a tensioner with a slot for a M3 nut.) The slots for the 2GT belts are very precisely measured and tested to work with "Gates" 2GT belts sold by E3D.

13mm rail tensioner v5.stl

I sandwich the smart effector carriage adapter between the rail carriage and the base of this tensioner model. (I also use 4mm shims between the magballs and carriage adapters.)

After the the sandwich is tightened down, I can slide the tensioner part of the model between the base and smart effector carriage adapter.

The model started from the .STEP file attached to this thingiverse thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3546124, and was completely redone for belts, spacing, etc.

@Garfield Haha, yes I saw that just the other day and thought your post was good timing. I almost posted a link to the video myself actually.

@DocTrucker said in P3Steel / Prusa Y-Axis End Plate Bracing:

with some moray (sp?) like patterns

Moire, or Moiré for the pedantic!

If only you could bring yourself to buy a Duet 2 (Wifi, ethernet or Maestro), you could benefit from the 256x interpolation at 16x microstepping! I still use 1.8º motors on something similar to a P3Steel, and get no Moiré patterns on the bows of my Benchys. They really are amazingly smooth for a cobbled-together printer that uses an X axis I printed 8 years ago, and 3mm filament! Though perhaps I should try a test with interpolation turned off.

Ian

also the rj45 connectors are not rated for high current.

@Danal said in Delta printer advice:

That's the main reason I chose to do this. 600mm borosilicate and 600mm aluminum are not cheap. In fact, 600mm borosilicate is extremely hard to find. My tabletop was ordered from Amazon for about $40 USD. Very replaceable.

You don't need borosilicate. Ordinary float glass is fine if it is on top of a heat spreader (some people even use it directly on top of a PCB bed heater).

@mrehorstdmd said in E3D Hermes:

This new thing looks great, but it looks like the heat break just screws into the heatsink, the same as the V6. Did they do anything to secure it in the heatsink?

I've had the heat break come loose from the V6 hot-end many times during prints, screwing up the print quality. There is no way to securely mount the heatbreak in the heatsink- there's nothing to grab with a wrench on either the heatsink or the heatbreak, and no set screws. You can't twist it in by grabbing the heater block because the throat of the heat break is so thin it will break.

This. I have raged so hard about this many times before. It would have been the easiest thing in the world for them to add a set screw in the heatsink that tightens agaínst the upper part of the heatbreak that has no threads on it.
This is what i have done in the new extruder that i built, and it works like a charm.
But in general the whole e3d design is flawed with the unsupported heatbreak.

If the screw is too long, one can screw on a nut, saw off part of the thread (or Dremel), and then turn the nut off, The nut removes the burr.

I used to use silicon grease filled with ptfe then I moved to silicon oil filled with ptfe ... this is the one I'm super happy with:
391e2d4a-f2f1-4f1b-8c9d-5672bd8286f8-image.png

@kenbigt said in Duet 2 Wifi Extruder motor issue (Shuddering):

could this mean I have the wiring wrong for the stepper.

It does sound like a phase is disconnected.

You can check the phases of the motor with this technique.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_Identifying_the_stepper_motor_phases

@Dougal1957 said in Upgraded rod and effector for Anycubic Kossel Liner Plus:

you could re-use the AKL Ones the PCB Carriages that come with the Smart effector fit between the existing carriages and the linear rail sliders

Exactly

@dc42, thanks for response. I have duet 0.8.5, and seems like I do need H parameter. But it is definitely being ignored when I set it. Could it be that my firmware (1.24 (2019-06-13b2)) has it disabled (looks like it's ifdefed in the code depending on configuration?).

@claustro Came across this, Instead of an intricate belt path, I just put 4 motors under my bed, one at each corner. Works lovely because it's super strong now as well.

Followup: I did a test with some Chinese translucent PTFE tubing to run the filament from the bottom of the printer all the way to the extruders, but that was borderline at best.

With PLA it takes quite some force to push the filament from the bottom to the extruder, up to the point where it starts kinking. Then I tried routing the PTFE lines inside some 6mm OD polyamid pneumatic tubing to prevent small bend radiuses and possible flattening of the tubes, made no difference.
Well, the Chinese translucent tubing is probably not the best a man can get, but quality tubing will not do an order of magnitude better.

I ordered some 3mm I.D. PTFE tubing, hope that helps.

@Phaedrux, confirmed 1 mm thickness ....
I did actually take great care with the installation of the glue sheet (seperate sheet so two chances of getting air trapped) and thought I did well but chances are it got mucked up first time I went too hot. Just for laughs, I can get the edges to curl up about an INCH !!!
This is going back a while so I might be off by a bit but it wasn't just a mm here or there 😞
I still suspect that I got some kind of a clone product but have no way of finding out if it is the real thing and I was not about to spend another $20 on a new sheet of PEI. I went back to printing on straight glass (no glues, hairspray or other magic potion)

I normally print with 0.4mm retraction on small prints and get great results. I tried no retraction to try to solve this problem.

I switched to a default Cura profile today and my issue entirely went away, haven't gone through and figured out which setting was causing the problem yet though.