@Candleon261990abx said in flash Forge adventure 3:

How do I, make my printer become consistent.

Add detail. eg https://forum.duet3d.com/post/53522

Ian

@oliof Hi. would you mind taking a look at my X axis graph? It looks bad, but on the other hand, the amplitude is very low.Y.JPG X.JPG I took this measurement without "capture data during the whole length of move". Y axis looks beautiful.

@o_lampe Sounds like me! Well, the 'small body' bit, anyway.

Ian

@Oscar did you do the conversion? I'm just printing all parts to start it. I think the duet wifi is more than appropriate to run the CoreXY config.

Could be some challenge to set it up though as I have to go through all the config again.

I was able to write a script in python that does what I want. Posting it here for others to reference if needed.

import sys
import re

flag = False

out = open('YOUR FILE NAME HERE'+'_adjusted'+'.gcode', 'w')

with open('YOUR FILE NAME HERE.gcode') as f:
for r in f:
if re.search('G1 F', r):
feedrate = r[3:]
flag = True
print(r[:-1] + ' ' + feedrate) # get rid of new line
elif flag:
r = r[:-1] + ' ' + feedrate
out.write(r)
flag = False # Reset flag
else:
out.write(r)
flag = False # Reset flag

@ageis What hotend? What printer? Maybe a photo?

Possibly the PTFE tube has melted in and got stuck, or heat creep has caused the filament to form a bulge that can't pass out of the hot end. You may be better extruding filament, then pulling it back once the bulge has been pushed down and melted. Or it could be that you have too much retraction, and molten filament is being pulled back and getting between the end of the PTFE tube and nozzle, forming a bulge.

To avoid in the future, try not to leave filament at temperature in the hot end for a long period of time, without extruding.

Ian

@ageis while @deckingman is correct, the (my) rule of thumb is that every printer has a 'happy' speed and going above that is going to cost you quality. Re turning the speed factor up to 200 ... why not use the slicer's built in features? Set the first layer speed at 50% and then the speed will double automatically. If your slicer has a separate speed for small features, set those to be another 50% slower. That way everything happens automatically (since you are lazy and all that 🙂 ).
Speed also is very dependant on not just the printer but things such as what filament you are running. Most filament will specify what speed is best and those are safe speeds to start at. As you work out the quirks on your printer you can increase those recommended speeds.
PLA is afaik usually specified as around 100 or 120 mm/sec but a lot of printers can run at 150% of that. Some printers will let you go to 400 mm/sec but even though they are capable, you will likely see a difference between a part printed at 100 mm/sec and one printed at 400 mm/sec. Only you can determine how good/bad your print needs to be to satisfy you.
As @deckingman says, do two back-to-back prints.
Oh, it also makes a difference of what you are printing - threads for a nut will require a slower speed than a basic square cube.

@ageis said in capacitive sensor - does it get affected by magnets:

I think I will gve the bltouch a try. My logic is, it's the only onethat actually contacts the bed. Inductive and capacitive don't actually touch the bed.

Which is a good thing to my way of thinking. They are much faster than the BLTouch since they are no parts that need to move.

Frederick

Best to replace the part first and see how that goes. If the motor current is already set appropriately for the motor you shouldn't increase it. I mainly asked in case there were places in your macros that you dropped the current for some other reason and maybe it wasn't getting returned to it's normal value.

@ageis, 0.3 mm is not excessive. I use that quite frequently. Don't call that a 'resolution' issue though. Your printer might have a much much higher accuracy for positioning the nozzle but there are all kinds of inaccuracies introduced as you lay down the filament (even if your nozzle was to be within 0.001 mm of where it should be). On top of all that, there are errors introduced during the slicing. For example, a hole is never 'round'. It is an approximation of round with many little facets. The net effect is that the hole is always smaller then as laid out in the CAD program (some slicers have a setting to compensate for that)
While round holes is not an issue in your case, you will run into other errors such as bulging corners from inaccurate pressure advance calibration or even things like ripples introduced due to harmonic vibrations as the printer prints.

Good luck!

I hasten to add that I think I saw a similar machine on the reprap forum years and years back, but search on that is terrible so I couldnt find that one.

I see. Good idea, thanks.

Thanks for all the input! I have now figured out that ironing TPU causes a mess although maybe that could be lessened with adjusting the settings of the ironing process. I have also come up with a seal that actually works although that seal used PLA and an O ring for the seal and that will not work in the full functioning seal. I might try to build a composite seal that uses PLA and an O ring along the outside of the main body and TPU for the section that seals against the popup part. At this point I do not know how feasible/durable it is to combine PLA and TPU in a single seal when there isn't enough room to combine the materials with some sort of physical connection rather than depending on just adhesion.
Anyway, more trial prints are in order but progress is being made!

After I have this all sorted, I will try my luck again at casting a seal based on what I learned here. I do have a resin printer that has been gathering dust and this might be a great excuse to give that printer another go.

I have given up on the thought of printing 60A shore TPU although I might still give a 70A material a try if I trip over a roll of it someplace up here in Canada. Most TPU in Canada is around shore 90A with only one vendor (that I have found) offering shore 60A TPU. I have not found anything in between those two grades.

@dc42 said in Can I use a negative pressure advance value?:

@Arminas for information, direct drive extruders normally need a very low PA value, normally less than 0.1.

I can add a couple of data points to that. For a Bondtech Lgx Ace/Mosquito combination and 0.5mm nozzle, PET-G needs 0.06, ABS and PLA both need 0.04 and TPU-HF95 needs none at all.